When I purchased my '93 xjs, the original owner told me he had the transmission rebuilt at 60k by Cottman Transmissions. When i put it on a lift, I discovered they never replaced the failed gearbox mount when they rebuilt the tranny. I guess they figured they had a permanent customer. the parts were 200 us dollars but i was happy to fix the problem that causes premature transmission failure in these models.

 

Put on new Teardrop rims! Scored the set for $150 om eBay. Ditched my gawdawful warped Dayton wire rims. Took a little to make the Teardrops fit and the center caps won't fit up front because of the bearing dust caps, but they look pretty good!



Padre

 

this sanden upgrade, although upgrade is debatable

 

RGP
The engine bay looks terrific. why are you disappointed?
Greg

 

I'm away at the moment but a parcel arrived for the XJS at home and I have no idea what is in it.
How exciting!

 

Completed final flush with deionized water and Prestone flush kit and installed Lutz Stage1 coolant system mod. and 195F. T-stats (54mm) on all 3 machines. New silicon hose kits supplied by E-bay seller in Florida using non perforated hose clamps to be re-tightened after test run and air-bleeder/burping procedure. 21qts of coolant in 22 qt system. Renovated air bleeder tube across top of Rad. and remodeled banjo bolt at the A bank side.

 

hi Greg
I drove it to Brighton this week and it wasn't what I would call cold, it was cool, I am wondering if this heater valve from 4 seasons is working in reverse
so I have clamped one of the heater hoses and I will check it later, either that or the gas pressure is not correct, I may well get a ez chill if its not the
valve,

 

RGP
Something is amiss for sure. Mine freezes me to ice!
Greg

 

Just remove the vacuum hose and see if anything changes. Depending on configuration the valve will either open or close; there's no other mode than open or closed.

What you want is a heater valve that closes when vacuum is applied and opens with no vacuum applied.

Cheers
DD

 

RGP
I have just had another thought. The coolness on our aircon versions, Delanaire II, is also controlled VERY much by the amplifier setting. If you remove the LHS (UK passenger) tunnel cheek, held in place by the LHS footwell air outlet grille, you can get to the amplifier trim screw.

Take a torch and shine it into the dark towards the front and bottom of the unit. You will, after many minutes of peering, see a dark coloured item clipped to the bottom of the unit, hiding behind the black relay thingy bolted to a bit of car. The amp has a round white multiplug leading to it and a earth wire. The trim screw is on the side of the unit facing you as you peer in, and it looks like a standard electronic plastic screw adjuster. Turn the trim screw ANTI clockwise to make the aircon colder. If the car is up to temp before you start on this, and you start the engine once you have found the trim screw, you will actually hear the aircon cut in as you turn the trimmer. If you need a photo, let me know.
Also, check that you DO have vacuum at the heater valve line.
Greg

 

RGP

admiring your engine bay and Sanden fit up, in the process of doing the same to mine......i see the pipe coming of the RH side of the compressor....is it a Jag part or did you have it made....?

Thanks

Darren
84 HE....the Mistress

 

To clarify, and I stand ready to be corrected......

I thought the intended function of that trimmer was not to increase the coolness or warmness of the output air, per se, but rather to rectify any discrepancy between the desired temperature and the actual cabin temperature.

For example, if the dial is set to 70º but the climate control system keeps the cabin at 75º, you would 'trim' the amplifier by turning the screw in the 'colder' direction. And, indeed, this might be the fault RGP is experiencing and needs to rectify.....if the temp dial is set at an intermediate setting.

However, if max cooling is called up (dial set at 65º), and the system responds by opening the center dashboard vent, and the output air simply isn't very cold, I don't think the trimmer adjustment will have any bearing on the matter.

Cheers
DD

 

For all I know you could be, so to speak, "electronically" correct Doug, but my experience has been the thing will not get cold, regardless of the temp setting being at its coldest, if the trim is out. Then again, if the amp is actually playing up, which has happened to me innumerable times before I at last sourced a digital version of the amp, then this also may well be RGP's problem. (Just another couple of hundred Rex, but very strongly recommended)! But if you want to try a second hand amp that does work, PM me.
If the thing has been professionally gassed, and if the water valve is responding Ok, then my money is 100% on an amp fault of some sort.
Greg

 

Bought it a brand new MoT - that is the compulsory UK annual safety inspection for you overseas chaps.


This was the first test in my ownership and I'm always nervous when I take a new acquisition to my local garage for the first time but it sailed through with no marginal issues.

Emissions really low to - not bad for 135k miles.


Yippee!!!!!


LeeP
(1990, 3.6 manual coupe)

 

Congrats... I yet to have my ol' girl pass the German TÜV check... A lot more strict than the UK MOT...

 

We are lucky here as there is no smog or safety testing. It more like, drive what you have

 

Got home this morning and opened the parcel and a nice little treat inside.
I had a problem with a late delivery from a supplier (not their fault) so they have (without me complaining in anyway at all) refunded the postage and sent me a tub of Connolly Hide Care and a Jaguar key ring for free.
Pretty good customer care I think.

 

Ordered the O Ring for the dizzy and the rubber chain cover butt plug... So I can more a bit further...

 

????

 

more is German for move