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Okay, taken a look. Very hard to probe that area because of the electric fan shroud.
There are some faint trails of minor leakage, it seems, heading down.
The inside of the rad on the left (port) side has some muck, as shown in the previous photo. Pretty gummed up in there, though it's only a small fraction of the rad surface.
Following that muck upwards as best I could with the boroscope, I found this suspicious-looking dark green patch. No significant muck above that, though as we're getting well into the upper left corner, with the fan shroud in the way, it was hard to tell. The photos aren't the best, as the boroscope camera was shaking.
I'll check with my normal garage, but I would not be surprised if the rad has sprung a leak there.
It's cooling fine, incidentally. Driving around, no aircon (haven't got heater valve yet), temps are a bit below or bang on the middle mark. So perhaps not urgent. But something to keep an eye on, and if it is the rad weld, I'm not terribly impressed.
XJeffs
could you please post some details about how easy it has been, a list of exactly what you need to buy and do, how you found a decent replacement autobox and costs overall of the change? Plus some more pics etc?
Doe the new box go straight onto the engine, or is there an adaptor plate? Is the flexplate the same, speedo drive fitment the same? Propshaft? And what about the gear selector in the cabin, as the new box has another gear and maybe different throws between the PRND etc ?
Greg
XJeffs
could you please post some details about how easy it has been, a list of exactly what you need to buy and do, how you found a decent replacement autobox and costs overall of the change? Plus some more pics etc?
Doe the new box go straight onto the engine, or is there an adaptor plate? Is the flexplate the same, speedo drive fitment the same? Propshaft? And what about the gear selector in the cabin, as the new box has another gear and maybe different throws between the PRND etc ?
Greg
Sure I can do that. I'll put together a new thread with pictures and details about the build, including extra parts to buy, costs, snags I ran into etc. I was searching to see if anyone had done this before I posted it but haven't found anything yet.
not today but worth a mention, I always liked the headlight power wash system, I firstly fitted the vacuum tank, from behind the RH head light to behind the left had headlight and extended the vac pipe to suit, I purchased, from ebay, a pair of front bumper 1/4s, brand new, for £35.00 each and jets and covers from jdht, when they were available, and diverted the wiring for the headlight pump to the new reservoir, I had previously purchased from ebay for £30 from kwe cars, with all the pipe work, I plumbed in the existing pumps so they serve one jet each on the windscreen washers, and they all wok fine, only down side is I never ever had to use them as I don't drive at night, but as a project it worked out very well and got the look I was after. pictures in no particular order or? depending on my mood
Not today, but within few last days.(nights, long nightshifts and very little to do so i spent many hours to fix Jag and Rover)
Fixed passenger side mirror switch. This was troubleshooted earlier, contact ring was removed by previous mechanic and all contacts were corroded. Took sw apart and gave it good clean, manufactured new contact ring and assemble sw together. Now i have working mirror on pass side too. +saved few euros as these switches seems to be bit pricey
Saved my rear seat. Checked, and found water under seat base, seat was already waterlogged littlebit but nothing too bad happened. Sourced leak to rear window corner, drips slowly to parcel shelf and runs under foam forward and then down under seat base. There is no route to escape for water -> nice puddle. Proper re-sealing for rear window needs to be done during winter stop, now removed bad/loose sealing stuff and just applied new on corner area.
Swapped radio to another unit. Original Jaguar cassette player is on repair and i have had lousy/cheap unit installed, it went silent couple of times now. Took another unit from my carage and throwed it in, wasn't quick plug and play because there is no room for unit that big + harness. Need to remove side finishers and foot well air ducts to get hands there, for routing harness without destroying anything.
I did my valve cover gasket, plugs and wires and an oil change. I thought I'd check the resistance on my old wires since im fairly certain they are possibly the originals. I never changed them since it was running well, but decided to do them anyway since i stumbled across a clearance on rock auto which scored me a new set for $10.50! My old ones ohmed anywhere between 9.5 and 15.8! My new ones all read about 1.5! Im interested to see what kind of difference they, along with new plugs, make overall. My valve cover gasket was also the original and was completely dried and cracking and had just started leaking. New one fit nice!
Now that the serious things annoying me on my car have been fixed (see my Dana Differential Demystified thread if the saga has passed you by) I turned my attention to something that has been irritating me for some time.
The battery tray, on the pre facelifts anyway, is just too small for modern standard-size batteries of a decent amperage I use VARTA D15s that have 610 CCA (eg:
) which are 242mm long, 175mm wide, and 190mm high. This is one of the standard sizes that all modern batteries now conform to.
To get this into the battery tray I have to chisel off the foot "ledge" on the long sides, which is a chore. I also might well fit the next size up (length 278mm, other dimensions identical) which comes with 780 CCA at some point. So i decided to take my spare tray and make it deeper front to back, and wider; sufficiently so to take the larger size if I wanted to fit it. There is just room to get a long enough tray into the space between the spare wheel and the chassis, but a notch has to be cut out of it to accommodate the tank strap bracket. At the same time I removed the sock filter from the sump tank and placed a 1/2 inch Wix filter into the feed tube from the main tank, as well as renewing the Sytec filter element. In addition, I adjusted the hole in the floor so that for the first time ever since the car left Browns Lane, the drain clock can actually be accessed from under the car!
All in all quite a bit of cutting and shutting and welding, but a very pleasing result, with noticeably improved throttle response; which I put down to better fuel flow to the pump through the Wix filter. A few pics attached: OEM and expanded battery trays Notch cut to avoid fouling the tank strap bracket. All the same OEM tray fixings are used Wix filter in the feed line from the main tank, obviating the need for the in-sump-tank sock filter Access hole made large enough to get at the drain **** in the sump tank. All replaced ready for the tank clamp and battery cover to be fitted
Last edited by Greg in France; 07-20-2020 at 03:37 AM.
hi Greg
I HAD TO FIT a bigger battery in mine simply because eurocarparts have the listing wrong and I couldn't be bothered to send it back
and what with the twin fans and other heavy user's of power it must be a sign from above, it entailed moving the holes forward on the tray mounting brackets ,
as much as poss,.,because the battery was I bit to close for comfort to the tank strap bolt, a bit of hammering and bending made it fit, with room. I had some light "L"
shape steel welding to extend the steel strap. and a longer threaded stud, not at all difficult, and all the covers still fit without mods,,, picture taken 2015
Prepared XJS for roadtrip which will include ~1200km/750miles. Heading to North Karelia for short summer vacation, main goal is "Koli" area and do some hiking etc etc. Car itself is ready to go, just normal weekly checks/top up and collect few basic tools just in case. Isn't this why these great GT cars are made for.
Arrived yesterday, after troublefree ~600km journey. Today Jag was used only for short travel from rented cottage to "Koli" area where we spent whole day doing hiking. 9km / 6miles on woods and hilly area, you can see beautiful scenery from these few pics. Lake is called "Pielinen".
Hope you guys don't mind my travel pics... at least there is one with Jag too.
Already get used to it, no matter if i drive my Rover or Jag... people approach and start conversation. (Remember, here in Finland we don't chit chat with unknown people too often )
Arrived yesterday, after troublefree ~600km journey. Today Jag was used only for short travel from rented cottage to "Koli" area where we spent whole day doing hiking. 9km / 6miles on woods and hilly area, you can see beautiful scenery from these few pics. Lake is called "Pielinen".
Hope you guys don't mind my travel pics... at least there is one with Jag too.
Already get used to it, no matter if i drive my Rover or Jag... people approach and start conversation. (Remember, here in Finland we don't chit chat with unknown people too often )
Returned from North Karelian trip few days ago. Total 1452km / 902miles collected. Car was performing perfectly. Seems that my previous pic links not working too well.
Or do they work??
Returned from North Karelian trip few days ago. Total 1452km / 902miles collected. Car was performing perfectly. Seems that my previous pic links not working too well.
Or do they work??
I had to click on the links to see them. Glad to hear you had a good trip!
I am trying to reassemble the various engine bay items and can't seem to find my adjuster bolt and block for the power steering pump. I was sure I left it "right Here" next to the old water pump on my workbench. Have any of you seen it?
07-01-2020, 03:05 AM
+saved few euros as these switches seems to be bit pricey
