Oh man, so sorry to see what you discovered. There is hope, it looks fixable.

 

Not exactly sure what you are asking, but it was direct replacement of the originals and the car runs great after installation.

Here is a photo from NGK if that helps:

 

Oh I just wondered about inside the lead plug I bought a set once that had an odd nipple inside the plug hole, couldn't use them at all with my 89' car.

 

Yeah, I had gotten a set of Standard Motor Product coils and for the coil wire leads there was/is a small pin centered in the barrel of the coil. A style the coil wire needed to clip onto. Got them on Rock Auto and if I remember "Marelli" was mentioned I the advert. The coil leads called a much smaller cylindrical push style clip fitting that are a tight fit around that centered coil pin as opposed to the coil leads I had that are the more familiar,,, coil contact is made on the OUTSIDE of a cylindrical barrel that slides down inside the coil cylinder...

I got'm and was pissed at the difference. Called the company and had a convo with the owner who was not aware of this difference... He thanked me for the info,,, made some changes to his rock advert, and sent me a new set of custom made coil leads... I was pleased. I just love the good folks I come across in the process of working on my cars. It's a bonus I could have never expected when I started into all this.

 

Ben
That is a well known rust place. The subframe can be swung down on its loosened front mounts, and it will certainly help make the welding and protecting easier but is not 100% essential. What is essential is access to the engine bay in that area to ensure a good patch goes over the properly cleaned up hole. Thus air box and throttle body removal is important.
The reason it rusts there is because there is a load strengthener for the shock absorber loads going up the outside of that area in the wheelarch. Water and grot gets behind it and rots out the steel inner wing. Once done, I suggest you seam-seal the edges of the stregnthener all round so water cannot get in there afterwards. A few pics:

 

did mine when the heads were off,

 

I currently have all the manifolds off bar the exhausts so there's plenty of room in there - I notice you're also missing the alloy / sound insulation which I also plan to remove from below the brake servo, going to do this both sides.

That looks like electrox ? - the zinc stuff from Bilt Hamber - I have 2 litres of it on the bench.

 

That got put back later!

 

Did you find a good supplier for that alloy / insulation stuff - I do intend to remove mine but it would be nice to replace it with something similar, not necessarily more modern. I've checked places like Woolies trim but not really dug too deep into this one as priorities shifted a bit.

 

I managed to recuperate the old stuff. But elsewhere I use SilentCoat which is cheap and excellent, also very sticky.
https://www.silentcoat.co.uk/collections/silent-coat

 

Apologies, I didn't get what you were asking. Now, I understand, and the lead connector is exactly like the Marelli coils.

 

Finally, after great difficulties, bush/link/hardware kit for front anti-roll bar arrives. I want to change them before car goes for winter stopover, just to make sure that slight noise from front suspension is coming from link bushes. They are destroyed, easily spotted but there can be something else gone wrong as well.

 

Replaced both links today, noise is gone. Visited today, and yesterday, cruising events (non official). Mostly USA cars, but all other classics are generally welcome too. Unfortunately not so much british classics there, only few plus my Jag.

 

Getting ready for my cross country run. Overall check on a lift. Found a few loose bolts under the hood.

Installed new coils, and am just about finished building my FI harness.

This morning applied undercoating to the rockers, front and rear side splash panels.

 

Good luck with your trip!
Today I got back around to mine and installed the front crossover pipe and several of the smaller coolant hoses, emptying one of the boxes of parts that have accumulated in the trunk. YAY!

 

sweet ride!

 

I haven't been on here in a long time. I moved and finally have a shop to work in so I can devote more time to the hobby. I have an 83 XJS coupe and I also picked up an 89 XJS convertible recently. It is somewhat marginal from a condition standpoint, but, but, I love punishment. Anyhoo, today I finally got it running smooth.... I bought it a month ago and immediately pulled out the fuel tank which was completely rotten (I found out quickly, good luck finding a tank anywhere for a convertible), It was so bad, I just cut it open to clean it out. It looked like swiss cheese after cleaning, long story short, it is back in and doesn't leak. Had to swap out injectors and fuel hoses as they were rotten. Injectors plugged with rust. New plugs, wires, rotor etc. After all of this, still misfiring on bank b. I was thinking, dang I am going to have to pull the heads. So "Today" started pulling all the plugs and checking compression (for head pulling confirmation) which was "okay" which surprised me. Number four plug on B bank was clean and all other plugs had a bit of carbon starting to build. Lo and behold I have a defective almost new NGK plug! Kind of irritating, but a much better outcome than disassembly which I have done a few too many times. A cautionary tale about not tearing everything apart before checking everything.

So, on to all the other gremlins. A lot of stuff is not working electrically, surprise surprise. This car has ABS and the brakes are marginal. I started looking at ABS replacement parts (if you can find them), and was a bit horrified on the cost of the few things I could find. I have an 85 parts car. I am thinking it might be in my best interest to swap to non ABS. Anyone have any thoughts on that? I have everything, even a new master cylinder for non abs. One other question, would a car manufactured in July of 89 be considered a 90, since it has ABS?

 

yes, swap in the non ABS. Great move.

 

but why? Don't you like the thrill of never knowing that your brakes will work until you hit the peddle? The airplane crashing shake of the ABS violently jolting the steering wheel? oh and don't forget the sudden death pull to one side when one caliper gets the signal and the other just...didn't. Side effects may include life to flash before your eyes, involuntaelry defacation and sudden highway guard rail impact.

 

Geeezzzeee. Vancouver you're just a barrel of laughs. I do believe I will be eliminating the ABS Thank You.

Jack