Tags say SAJNA5845J (8 or S) 143373
stamped in back 8S53239SB and CH845 jag and EAC1962

what is needed to run it other than the basics. Can I run it as a display without smog pump?

thanks

 

Car was built about April 1988. And the engine is a 1988 unit as well, Standard Compression and B Grade Pistons.

It looks quite tidy!

PAul

 

Thanks. Yes very clean. Oil is clean as well.
what do I need to run it? Harness , ECU…. Is the EGR box required to run it ?
I want it bare. I want to run it as this beautiful engine is intended to be run.
no gimmicks. Perfect timing, perfect injection system and that’s it. On a stand.

 

EGR stands for exhaust gas recycling. No you can remove it and plug the holes in the intake.
You will need to have an ECU to get it running.
The factory ECU is fine for normal drive/ running. However if you want to change anything ( camshafts, fuel used, pistons, etc.) it cannot be adjusted.
For that you will need aftermarket.
The cheapest system is the MEGASQUIRT MS 2 Basically connect the wires to the properly places and it will start and run. Since it’s self learning it doesn’t take a lot.
Others like MAXXECU Emerald etc are available. At much, much higher cost.

 

Good info. Thanks. I thought it wouldn’t run if any egr components weren’t connected..
I will definitely look into it. I want the basic block to run as a display.
so I plug up all the vacuum lines and use a Megasquirt ms2. Do you still use the AAv valve or is that done as well ?

 

You won’t need the tubes going to the intake ports . When I delete them. I just use some socket head screws I tap into the holes where the EGR tubes were. It makes a much neater looking engine. Yes you will need to use a pipe thread cutter to do that. And make sure they are below flush with the head. If you grease up the tap as you cut, you don’t risk dropping any chips into the intake ports. I’m extra careful when I do that and only make 2 or three threads before I pull out the tap , wipe off the grease and chips then re-grease. I’ve seen others just stuff the hole with grease and make it in one pass. I guess either way works.
I’m a belt and suspenders kind of guy when finished tapping. I’ll take my shop vacuum cleaner and attempt to suck out any chips that may have escaped.
On the off chance that a chip or two does still drop in, it really shouldn’t hurt anything. Aluminum is soft enough and the combustion process is turbulent enough to simply blow the aluminum chip out the exhaust valve without hurting anything.
As far as the AAR Valve goes. That’s part of the intake system not the EGR SYSTEM.

 

Ok, yes I have done that on other engines.
do you keep the AAR valve or is that decommissioned as well ?
Breather and PCV stay I assume.
there are so many tubes ! I’ll figure it out.
As this motor is out wonder if I should replace the cylinder head gaskets or just leave it alone.,,
I’ll probably do the cam cover and of course intake gaskets. Banjo modification.
I’ll use a one chamber aluminum radiator.

 

If you have no indication of head gasket failure don’t!!!!!! There are 29 studs on each head. It’s extremely difficult to remove. Especially if the coolant hasn’t been changed every 2 years like the factory says
What happens is deposits and corrosion build up on the studs, making it extremely difficult to remove the heads.
As far as the valve I don’t use that on my race cars so it will fire and run with aftermarket ECU

 

Engine is pretty much bare. Have a SNG Barratt distributor kit for it DAB113HEF and looking into the Mobeck Jaguar v12 efi kit. Any first hand experience or knowledge on this kit?
https://mobeck.com/jaguar-v12-efi-kit/
looks like it’s custom for this V12. Price is a bit steep I think. 3600$.
saw a xjc for sale at 3000$….

 

If you are going to just run it on a stand with no load, the Mobeck system is wasting money. It looks like it has a distributor, so just find an AB14 ignition amplifier and run it with the ECU from the car.

 

If all you need to do is run it as a display engine. He’s right, the stock system will work. You will need the O2sensors though
If however you intend to use it in a car you can for a few hundred dollars get a Megasquirt model 2 and have some adjustability.
You might even look at the Megasquirt Model 3 pro series. That come prewired so you can tune the whole engine with a simple laptop. Change mixture, timing, even add flex fuel capability.
Flex fuel allows you to use E85 or any fuel mixture you want E30, E15 E10 non oxygenated etc.
the advantage of that is more power at less cost. Non oxygenated 93 octane will cost as much as $2.00 per gallon than E85 and yet non oxygenated fuel makes less horsepower and will leave deposits on the back side of the intake valve which over time costs even more horsepower and lower fuel mileage.
If you’re running flex fuel with no other change than running E85 instead of the more expensive non oxygenated premium. You’ gain as much as 38 extra horsepower.
Once you program that “tune” in then it automatically adjusts based on what fuel you’re running. You can mix 1/2&1/2 or anything and it will read what the fuel is and automatically adjust.
If you want massive power gains without opening up the engine, then buy a couple of cheap EBay turbos. And it’s easy to double the horsepower without ever hurting the engine.
You would need a pair of $129(each) turbo’s and $50 ( each ) waste gates.
I’ve seen over 700 horsepower on a stone stock engine with 90,000 miles on it. To get there safely, you’d need electronically controlled waste gates that are $90 ( each)

 

Well there's your problem! Ain't got no gas in it!

 

Good info. Thanks. I plan to run it static to make sure it’s good to go then install it in my xj12. With a 5 speed TKK or stock 400 transmission.
like the idea of 5 speed but I can always do that later. City driving…