I have the same jack and I am very happy with it.
A set of 3 ton Jack stands from Harbor Freight should support the car safely, a larger set of 6 ton stands even better, especially if you want more height. I have had my car up on 2 pair of 3 ton stands while I replaced brake lines and rebuilt the rear calipers, and I have lived to tell about it, so I guess they are proven safe.

 

I would just add put the wheels under the car as the back stop. They get in the way sometimes but you can move them around. Makes me feel lots safer!

 

+1

That's been standard procedure for me for many years.

Cheers
DD

 

Hi guys. I haven't been on this particular thread for a while but I am shopping around to get myself setup at home in my little garage. I have some great friends (fellow forum members) that have helped me heaps at their respective garages (and taught me heaps) but now I feel I am ready to do a few things at home and explore the underside of my car...

I have pretty much nothing other than the scissor style jack in the boot of my car to bring her up so it is time to go shopping. I have been reading through this thread I started a while back and thanks to all the previous advice, I have a shopping list I would love your feedback on. Probably gonna pick up most stuff from either Autobarn and Supercheap here in Oz as they are both down the road and I can have a look. Well here goes

1 Trolley Jack. 2.5 or 3 Tonne: I have only a tiny garage. Is 3 tonne really necessary or would 2.5 suffice? Supercheap have a 3 tonne for $350 which is low profile (good for XJS). Will it go in far enough? :
Kincrome Hydraulic Trolley Jack, Low Profile - 3000kg - Supercheap Auto Australia

Autobarn do a 2.5Tonne for $186.
https://www.autobarn.com.au/orcon-ja...-2500kg-jg2500

big difference in price.

4 Jack Stands : 3 tonne
https://www.autobarn.com.au/orcon-ja...kg-2pcs-js3000
I noticed these go as high as 452mm however the 3 tonne trolley jack above goes to 550mm so I guess these stands will limit my height.

2 Ramps: Crikey! $100 each?
Stanfred Car Ramp, Single - 1000kg - Supercheap Auto Australia

Various lengths of wood to chock under my jack and stands


Have I missed anything? Would you recommend another smaller jack (perhaps a bottle jack) or would the low profile 3 tonner cover all angles?(see above)

Now I also just wanted to confirm with you guys where you recommend placing the jack stands and also the jack itself as I get the feeling not everybody recommends using the "official" jacking points.

I can't remember exactly how we did it on previous occasions so was wondering where you guys recommend is best to use?

The main objective is to start getting underneath the car but without the ole girl falling on top of me and making me alot flatter



Thanks in advance

Drive on brothers!

 

Paul
My rule is never economise on tools of this type. The low profile 3 tonner (your list no. 1, I think) that can lift up to 55 cm is a really good idea. You will regret it if you buy something smaller, as I found out the hard way.


Jack stands are a must, you must never trust a jack on its own, never. The low profile is also really good, as when I jack up the car I normally put the jack in from the front, or from the back, with a piece of wood between it and the front or rear subframe, and lift the whole end. The low profile makes this easier as a normal height jack might require you to roll the car onto some low blocks before you can get the jack in. Then put in the jackstands under the suspension and chock the wheels that are on the ground. Then lower the car onto the stands and leave the jack just loaded and in place as an extra safety.


I do not think you will need anything else, but sometimes, if funds allow, having a smaller trolley jack can be handy to (eg) push something into place. I only use the OEM jacking points when I absolutely have to (eg when removing the rear cage) as they are not that robust in my view.
Greg

 

Paulyling,

Really good points from Greg, especially NEVER crawling under a car held by just a trolley jack.

My suggestion is just go over the top on weight ratings, heights etc. For the sake of a few extra quid, buy a 3 ton jack. I'd also buy a minimum of one other trolley jack. I often end up using 2 or jacks to support the car, lift up the hubs etc. Even with a low profile 3 ton jack, you might well find that it can't initially reach the front or rear subframes. So I invariably use a small 2 ton trolley jack under the official jack points just to raise the car a bit before I can slide the big boy under to reach the subframe. I then often have to lower the car after work onto that small trolley jack before removing the large 3 ton jack.

So buy as many jacks and axle stands as you can afford. You'll use them all!

Cheers

Paul

 

If you don't have a lot of room, skip the big jack. They can be found for cheap and still hold up well, the nicest thing to me is for lifting the entire car on one end if it has to go high, rather than jacking a side, setting a stand, and moving to the other over and over.

Some of the posts on about a 1.5 ton being too small are ridiculous. I've used 1.5 tons for years and never had any problem, they are easier to move, cheap at the store, and get the job done.

ramps are a waste of time and are generally considered pretty unsafe. Use jackstand instead.

Larger jackstands are nice for a good footprint, but typically sit so high on the lower setting that they are a pain to set with an XJS.

If you want to grab some stuff but not everything at once, I would get a 1.5 ton and at least 2 jack stands. To expand from there, I would say get a bottle jack, after that the next step would be another set of jack stands. Finally you could spring for the big low profile 3 ton.

I have multiple cars so I have at least 4 jackstands because sometimes some are in use. The bottle jack is very handy because they typically rise very high compared to the regular jack and don't slide around.

At no time is the entire car resting on the 1.5 ton, it really isn't that stressed and it isn't a problem. The 3 ton is nice because you get the long bar and it is really stable, but I wouldn't insist you have it like so many others here do.


btw the factory scissor jack is actually pretty sweet imo, I use it all the time when I don't want to drag a jack out for the XJS.

 

Guys as always many thanks for the feedback.

I got some shopping to do when I get home from work

On the subject of ramps I have used them at both my mates house and apart from me not being able to drive on them properly they actually seemed pretty handy.

What are your guys thoughts? When would you use ramps over a jack and vice versa?

 

Paul, I agree with all the above. I used a 1.5 tonne jack for 20+ years lifting 4x4's and everything. It was a case of making it work with what you have or can afford at the time.
The low profile 3 tonne I bought last year is worth the money(under $200). But having the small jack still around comes in very handy. Plus I have 2 ramps and an assortment of axle stands. I have drilled blocks for the jacking points. Last time we sat your car on the jacking points, that is what they are there for and they out of the way for most jobs you will do.

Join Club Plus at Supercheap, very good discounts and no need to keep reciepts if you need to return something. Plus if something goes on sale within 14 days of your purchasing it they credit the difference to your club card.

Don't rush to buy the stuff, Supercheap have very good sales regularly(often close to 1/2 price) so just watch the website or junk mail catalougues.

Maybe take James along when you go shopping for this gear,He knows what will work in your work space. He will make sure you get the right stuff first time.

 

Ramps are worth having, as are axle stands. Both are used a lot at my place, some situations where on or the other are not right.

 

Hi Greg

When you Jack up the Rear End, do you put the Jack right under the Crown Wheel and Pinion, with a small Block of Wood to prevent crushing the Cage?

As I have been Jacking Her up, underneath the Drive Shafts.

 

Hi Bro

Its hard to tell from those Photos but that first one doesn't look very low profile to me.

Even with the one I bought which is 2.5 Tons, there is only a very few 'mil' to spare to slide the Jack under the Front.

So ask if you can offer it up to your Car before you go and buy one.

 

At what what point do you put the jack to lift both front tires at the same time without damaging the car ?
Same question for lifting the rear ?
1990 XJS convertible.

 

Since I hate crawling under the car, I figure dying there wouldn't amuse me much either, so I *always* over do it.

I have two floor jacks, a nice aluminum 1.5 ton that is easy to grab when I need it and a big steel 3 1/2 ton when I want to lift the entire front or rear end. I have two jack stands that are taller and high rated, and two that have a much shorter starting height. I have two pairs of the 8 ton (4 each) rated plastic ramps from Harbor Freight (I never use them as ramps, and don't even attach the ramp portion). The ramps are lightweight and easy to store, and there's no excuse not to pull them out when they are needed.

Before I get under the car, it is secure on the jack stands *and* the ramps are positioned under the tires. That way if anything fails, there is something besides me to catch the sled. The ramp/jack stand combo also works well in getting the car higher up in the air - raise front end, lower tires onto ramps, raise back end, lower tires onto ramps, go back up front raise to final height use jack stands, same on the rear.

Incredibly cheap insurance, and my wife doesn't freak out when she sees me under the car (well not as much).

 

Hi Mac

I slide the Jack in from the Front and Jack Her up right under the Front Beam.

If your Jack hasn't got a Rubber Pad, its best to cushion it with a bit of Plywood, to prevent denting the beam.

As for the rear, I've been Jacking Her under the Drive Arms, or else I put a Jack on each side, under the 'Jacking Points' with a couple of Blocks of Hard Wood, into which I've drilled holes that slide over the 'Jacking Point Pins'

Having said that, I think that 'Greg' might have a better idea for Jacking Up the Rear end.

 

To lift the rear, you need to make a "U" fitting out of plywood.

Here is an image from the Factory Service Manual:

 

Excellent! Just what I needed to know.

 

Mac, and OB
At the rear I put the jack under the centre of the rear cage on the plate under the diff, with a piece of softwood between the jack cup and the diff plate.
At the front I do the same under the middle of the subframe. As others have said, if necessary to get enough clearance, I drive the car up onto 1 foot square blocks about 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep.
I do not have any ramps, but they are pretty good IMO, and the car is more stable on them than on two jackstands; it is surprisingly easy to wrench a car off jackstands if you are (eg) undoing a recalcitrant brake caliper with a long lever. But when I did have ramps, I fitted two huge blocks of wood under the raised part, so if the metal were to fail, the wood would prevent a disaster.
Greg

 

Hi Paul

Just by accident of history and moving houses and countries I ended up with two trolley jacks. A small one rated at 2 tonnes and a large one as per the pictures above rated at 1.8 tonnes. I thought I would be tossing or gifting one but they have been really handy on multiple cars. I also have 4 stands and 2 ramps (Scepter plastic ones) all of which end up getting used regularly. Its interesting how often the cars end up in the air when you can easily. I tend to use the ramps when I can and the stands when I have to , just due to ease of use and positioning.

 

Hi Greg

It looks like I have been doing it Wrong! as far as the rear is concerned, as I was quite paranoid that I might end up bending the Cage.

So I'm going to use Plywood, with a Softwood piece in the middle, like you said.