How am I supposed to take this apart? The book doesn’t give details. Tried just pulling the black plastic cover and switch apart but no luck.

 

You aren’t “supposed to” take it apart. The whole assembly is one part in Jaguar’s eyes and is to be replaced if faulty. However, it can be taken apart and serviced. The metal case is riveted to the plastic part. You can drill out the rivets, but then you’ll need to find a new way of holding the case on, as the rivets are part of the case. Be careful opening it up, the pieces like to fly out. It’s definitely a workbench repair as opposed to an in-car repair

 

Yikes, that is unfortunate. And it doesn’t look like anyone has found a substitute switch that functions & fits from a different vehicle. Thanks for letting me know. I’ll tread carefully!

 

What is, or isn't, the switch doing?

 

Spoke to soon; switch continuity test works in every position (though the stalk doesn’t want to go into the intermittent position, I’m not worried about that now).

Anyways, still not getting power to the motor plug. But when I send 12 v straight to terminal 1 on the switch (obviously connecting terminal 2 to negative terminal on battery), there’s a clicking sound that sounds like a relay coming beneath the center console (like under the radio, not near the shift lever). I have confirmed it’s not the delay relay making this sound, but I don’t see any other relays in the wiring diagram.

I’ll also mention that when I’ve tested for volts at the wiper plug itself, I see a very brief spike to plug G (along with hearing the aforementioned click), and then it drops immediately. See video below to hear the clicking and where it’s coming from. Any idea what this could be? Thanks

 

I can confirm this thing is what’s clicking, though I have no idea what it is (circled in red; located on right side of drivers footwell):



It has at least 3 plugs that I can see, two of them are circled in blue, and the third one is the blue cord running vertically out of frame (again there may be a fourth plug and I’m guessing there is but I didn’t get that far).

Just to be clear here’s the test I’m running: positive wire from + on car battery goes to terminal 1 on the wiper switch. Negative on car battery goes to terminal 2 on wiper switch. When I make that connection the clicking occurs.

However, when I have the battery installed on the car, ignition on position 2, and flip the stalk to slow, no click occurs.

I’m lost at this point. Any ideas?

 

That is some sort of vacuum operated device, most likely part of the aircon. That blue "wire" looks like a plastic vac tube to me. As does the tube with the rubber elbow coming out of the device.
It is for sure, in that location, nothing to do with the wiper circuit.
The wiper relay is under the dash, accessed by removing the trim under it, above your shins as you sit in the car.

 

So this is where I get confused - I have only ever read of one relay related to the wiper system: the delay relay, and it’s located under the passenger side of the dash (and as I understand it, could technically be unplugged and the wipers would still function, you would just lose the intermittent feature).

But you’re talking about under the driver’s side of the dash, right? Just north of the main fuse panel? If so, what does the relay look like? This would make way more sense to me since the idea that the wipers would operate without a “normal” relay (not counting the delay relay) made zero sense to me, but the wiring diagrams I’ve seen don’t show any other relays, though wiring is definitely not my strong suit.

Also: any idea why the aforementioned vacuum (suspected air con) device would click when I ran my test, but after disconnecting the plugs on that device, there’s no clicking sound anywhere? I double checked this by reconnecting the plugs to the mystery device and the clicking resumed when I powered the wiper switch. There’s clearly current running through that object, but I’m only sending current directly through the wiper switch.

Thanks Greg

 

It is clicking because of vacuum in the system. FOrget the aircon for the moment; reconnect the thing and concetrate on the wipers.
The wiper relay is actually called the delay unit, and the wipers will not work if it is faulty or disconnected. It is located on the passenger side, under the shin trim, and is mounted directly ABOVE the auxiliary fuse box.

DO you have a circuit diagram for the wiper system?

 

Here’s the diagram I’m working off of (car is an 83 but looks like the entire Electrolux system was swapped in):


You said if the relay was bad, the system won’t work. I don’t understand; in slow mode the switch terminals used in the diagram all circumvent the relay right? I believe you, just need it explained so I can understand. Thanks Greg

 

You may be correct about the delay unit not being needed, I just assumed it would be. You have not got a complete Electrolux system, as your switchgear is not that used in that particular upgrade. It is more likely that someone just swapped in an Electrolux motor and actuator unit and left the wiring untouched. If this is so, you lose the intermittent wipe; but all else will work.
Attached the diagram for the OEM system. By the way, to remove the wiper assembly, follow the loom bundle and you will find a plug.

 

This link has a pdf service bulletin which describes the retrofit of the Electrolux system, starting on page 41. Be sure the black wire on the switch is cut as described.
http://tinyurl.com/z3ckysh
​​​​​​If the link doesn't come up on your phone, try copy and paste in a browser.

 

Thanks, but now I’m even more confused haha. The 88-91 wiring diagram I included in one of my prior posts uses the black #2 terminal wire for ground, right? What confuses me is the service bulletin doesn’t mention rerouting that wire elsewhere - just simply cut it. I know terminal 7 can operate as ground but only when it’s connected to terminal 2 in certain switch modes, correct?

I can confirm though that my delay relay is the old blue Lucas one; could this prevent the wipers from working entirely? I’m still under the impression that the relay only affects the wipers when the intermittent mode is engaged.

And another question: how is terminal 4 on the wiper motor itself grounded as illustrated by the wiring diagram? I don’t see any ground wires running from the motor to the body.

One last question: I noticed 3 different fuse ratings in play:

- The wiring diagram lists 15A fuses for both fuse 9 and 11.

- My fuse panel lists both fuses as 35A (pic 1)

- The brown piece of paper behind the fuses themselves list #9 as 20A and #11 at 35A (pic 2).

Setting aside the English to American amp conversion, what amperage fuses need to be in these spots?

Oh the madness!

 

I've done this mod on two different XJS's. The black wire on terminal 2 of the switch is cut and not rerouted. Cut it and tape it off. The connection between terminals 2 and 7 are not used with the Electrolux system, but were with the Lucas. The Lucas system had pretty bizarre park arrangement were the motor would back up. This necessitated some weird wiring for the run position.
I don't know if the Electrolux system will work without the proper delay relay. It looks like you'd have to jumper terminals 1 and 4 if no relay is in place.
I don't recall how the motor was grounded. I think it was thru the plug at the firewall, but I'm not sure.

 

Thanks Jal1234, I’ll give that a shot. And you’re right about the grounding; there’s continuity between the C hole on the firewall plug and any ground on the car. Any idea about the fuses? I’d hate to overload the system.

 

Those diagrams we're published in the US, so they may be US fuse ratings. I didn't bother with the heaters on fuse 11. 35 amp Lucas fuses are equivalent to 17 amp AGC fuses, so I'd use 15 or 20 amp fuses in 11
On an older diagram for the Lucas system, with no heaters, it shows 15 amps for fuse 9 and 35 amps for 11.
Now you know why British cars are infamous for their electrics!

 

Cool, thanks again. Yes - I’ve owned a 1993 MR2 Turbo since 2008, and despite being pre-OBD II, I’ve already had more electronic headaches in this Jag in less than a month of ownership (though I suspect it will get better after sorting out some of the PO’s mess).

I’ll report back with my results.

 

No luck cutting the #2 wire on the switch.

Tested for voltage on terminal 1 and got nothing.

Then I did what I should’ve done a long time ago and tested for voltage at the various fuses (I should note this was a voltage test done at the base of each fuse while touching the fuse connector as well).

The results were bad.



I read another thread on here about the ignition protection relay (which if failed, causes fuses
9, 11, and 12 to fail that I know of, maybe others as well). I swapped out my ignition protection relay with a working relay, no change.

So it would appear a boatload of things aren’t getting voltage at the main relay box. Guess I have to do some digging.

Any advice before I dive into the bowl of spaghetti under my dash?

I’m really hoping that the issue lies with the copper plug things that hold the fuses in place…see how #3 above has a question mark…that one had 12v on one of the bottom copper plug things but not the one across from it, while all the healthy fuses had voltage on both sides.

Thanks

 

Without the Electrolux delay unit, cutting the earth wire will do nothing.

 

Can I use a generic relay? I searched for the DAC 6053 part # listed in the service bulletin and found nothing.

If generic is ok, do you know the amperage rating it needs?

Thanks Greg