Wood trim resurfacing XJS
#1
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#4
I did mine some years back, only I also re-veneered with waterfall babinga. I used water based polyurethane. did 2 coats to allow for some "soaking in", then sanded back, 3 coats, sanded back, 3 coats, sanded back, final 3 coats and sanded. of coarse wipe clean after all sanding with a tack cloth. after letting dry and cure, I used a self leveling clear coat spray in glossed finish I applied 4 light coats then polished out
IMAG0005
more of the stripping
Applying the finish
vacuum sealed. Do not own a regular vacuum pump and bags. A bit of ingenuity, use a Space Bag and my shop vac LOL
10 coats of Polyacrylic, applied by brush, hand sanded between coats. 4 coats of spray on Ploy, followed up by 4 coats of Liquid Glass polish
010
IMAG0005
more of the stripping
Applying the finish
vacuum sealed. Do not own a regular vacuum pump and bags. A bit of ingenuity, use a Space Bag and my shop vac LOL
10 coats of Polyacrylic, applied by brush, hand sanded between coats. 4 coats of spray on Ploy, followed up by 4 coats of Liquid Glass polish
010
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Greg in France (05-17-2018)
#5
I did mine some years back, only I also re-veneered with waterfall babinga. I used water based polyurethane. did 2 coats to allow for some "soaking in", then sanded back, 3 coats, sanded back, 3 coats, sanded back, final 3 coats and sanded. of coarse wipe clean after all sanding with a tack cloth. after letting dry and cure, I used a self leveling clear coat spray in glossed finish I applied 4 light coats then polished out
IMAG0005
more of the stripping
Applying the finish
vacuum sealed. Do not own a regular vacuum pump and bags. A bit of ingenuity, use a Space Bag and my shop vac LOL
10 coats of Polyacrylic, applied by brush, hand sanded between coats. 4 coats of spray on Ploy, followed up by 4 coats of Liquid Glass polish
010
IMAG0005
more of the stripping
Applying the finish
vacuum sealed. Do not own a regular vacuum pump and bags. A bit of ingenuity, use a Space Bag and my shop vac LOL
10 coats of Polyacrylic, applied by brush, hand sanded between coats. 4 coats of spray on Ploy, followed up by 4 coats of Liquid Glass polish
010
#7
But you would not vacuum after applying the finish, you would vacuum after applying adhesive. Your procedure is out of step.
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Thank you
#12
My veneer was in good condition so all it needed was re-finishing.
The new finish is 2 pack polyurethane varnish, I used Wattyl 7008. Lots of coats 7-8 with a brush, then wet sand starting with 600 to get the surface flat. Then finer grades to remove the scratching until polishing with buffing compound.
To remove the old polyester finish I used a heat gun and the polyester just pealed off.
The new finish is 2 pack polyurethane varnish, I used Wattyl 7008. Lots of coats 7-8 with a brush, then wet sand starting with 600 to get the surface flat. Then finer grades to remove the scratching until polishing with buffing compound.
To remove the old polyester finish I used a heat gun and the polyester just pealed off.
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89 Jacobra (05-20-2018)
#13
My veneer was in good condition so all it needed was re-finishing.
The new finish is 2 pack polyurethane varnish, I used Wattyl 7008. Lots of coats 7-8 with a brush, then wet sand starting with 600 to get the surface flat. Then finer grades to remove the scratching until polishing with buffing compound.
To remove the old polyester finish I used a heat gun and the polyester just pealed off.
The new finish is 2 pack polyurethane varnish, I used Wattyl 7008. Lots of coats 7-8 with a brush, then wet sand starting with 600 to get the surface flat. Then finer grades to remove the scratching until polishing with buffing compound.
To remove the old polyester finish I used a heat gun and the polyester just pealed off.
#17
The trim is held by pegs on the back that go into plastic bungs, it just levers off; but it is very easy indeed to crack the veneer when doing so. Just levering it up all round a tiny bit at a time worked for me. The door or glove box trim is secured from the back by small nuts, requiring access from behind by removing the panels (thanks Warren!)
Last edited by Greg in France; 03-07-2019 at 01:43 AM.
#18
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Greg in France (03-07-2019)
#19
If your car is a 96 ( I'm guessing from your signature) and it has a passengers side airbag, then the entire dash needs to come out and the drivers side airbag and steering wheel removed to be able to get the wood and aluminium panel out. It's bolted from behind.
When I did mine, it was part of fixing the climate control and the passengers airbag had to come out to do that, I can't remember now if the passengers airbag can stay in place, or it needs to come out as well. I think it can stay.
When I did mine, it was part of fixing the climate control and the passengers airbag had to come out to do that, I can't remember now if the passengers airbag can stay in place, or it needs to come out as well. I think it can stay.
#20
Some photos. First is the dash assembly out of the car, second is a close up of the backside of the wood trim panel that is in front of the airbag. These nuts can only be accessed by removing the dash. It's not that bad a job, just follow the manual. You will have to either buy or make a tool to disarm the drivers side airbag to remove it though.
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Greg in France (03-07-2019)