XJS 1989 Sticky Hand Brake Caliper
#1
XJS 1989 Sticky Hand Brake Caliper
Hello all!
So a while ago I redid my rear brakes, both the regular and the hand brakes. Everything works well, happy to say, except for a quite irritating squeaking coming from the hand brakes. I have confirmed it is the hand brake (they stop squeaking when I apply hand brake). I have loosened the hand brake line. Yet, they continue to squeak. They squeak less now that I loosened the hand brake line, but they do continue to squeak.
I admit I forgot to put any padding on the hand brake calipers, which is the reason I'm hoping they are squeaking. However, I am also worried that the caliper itself is sticking, which is my question here. The hand brake line is loose when the brake is off. So how can I tell if my hand brake caliper is sticking?
I do hope that I don't have to lower the rear cage again, as the hand brake calipers can't be worked on without doing this. Any ideas are welcome.
So a while ago I redid my rear brakes, both the regular and the hand brakes. Everything works well, happy to say, except for a quite irritating squeaking coming from the hand brakes. I have confirmed it is the hand brake (they stop squeaking when I apply hand brake). I have loosened the hand brake line. Yet, they continue to squeak. They squeak less now that I loosened the hand brake line, but they do continue to squeak.
I admit I forgot to put any padding on the hand brake calipers, which is the reason I'm hoping they are squeaking. However, I am also worried that the caliper itself is sticking, which is my question here. The hand brake line is loose when the brake is off. So how can I tell if my hand brake caliper is sticking?
I do hope that I don't have to lower the rear cage again, as the hand brake calipers can't be worked on without doing this. Any ideas are welcome.
#2
Maybe bad news I am sorry to say. Did you renew the bronze forks that hold the handbrake calipers apart? If not, then this is probably the cause, as they get weak and allow a pad on one side or the other to gently touch the disc and squeak. It is not a matter of padding or anti-squeal shims/backing etc etc. As you said, pulling the handbrake a bit stops it, as the pad is then sufficiently in contact not to squeak. I found this out the hard way too.
If you did renew the forks, then it is still probably the cause, and the new forks are not holding each side of the caliper equally apart... The forks can be renewed in situ, but it is sometimes a sod getting those two long bolt things that the handbrake calipers pivot on back into their holes and restarted.
Finally, did you pull the handbrake self adjusting mechanism apart and clean and hi-temp grease it? That helps too.
greg
If you did renew the forks, then it is still probably the cause, and the new forks are not holding each side of the caliper equally apart... The forks can be renewed in situ, but it is sometimes a sod getting those two long bolt things that the handbrake calipers pivot on back into their holes and restarted.
Finally, did you pull the handbrake self adjusting mechanism apart and clean and hi-temp grease it? That helps too.
greg
#3
Thanks Greg!
I COMPLETELY cleaned and replaced worn parts on the hand brake calipers and used the appropriate and recommended grease (Syl-Glide). Except...I didn't replace the forks.
They looked good at the time and didn't think they needed replacing. Lesson learned! I am glad to hear they can be replaced in suto (?), though. Is it safe to drive until I replace them? Am I destroying the disc/brake pad/caliper? I checked the disc this AM, no lines/marks thus far.
I COMPLETELY cleaned and replaced worn parts on the hand brake calipers and used the appropriate and recommended grease (Syl-Glide). Except...I didn't replace the forks.
They looked good at the time and didn't think they needed replacing. Lesson learned! I am glad to hear they can be replaced in suto (?), though. Is it safe to drive until I replace them? Am I destroying the disc/brake pad/caliper? I checked the disc this AM, no lines/marks thus far.
#4
Thanks Greg!
I COMPLETELY cleaned and replaced worn parts on the hand brake calipers and used the appropriate and recommended grease (Syl-Glide). Except...I didn't replace the forks.
They looked good at the time and didn't think they needed replacing. Lesson learned! I am glad to hear they can be replaced in suto (?), though. Is it safe to drive until I replace them? Am I destroying the disc/brake pad/caliper? I checked the disc this AM, no lines/marks thus far.
I COMPLETELY cleaned and replaced worn parts on the hand brake calipers and used the appropriate and recommended grease (Syl-Glide). Except...I didn't replace the forks.
They looked good at the time and didn't think they needed replacing. Lesson learned! I am glad to hear they can be replaced in suto (?), though. Is it safe to drive until I replace them? Am I destroying the disc/brake pad/caliper? I checked the disc this AM, no lines/marks thus far.
Greg
#5
I am assuming you have inboard brakes same as the XJ6.
I had a similar problem after rebuilding my handbrake calipers, I did replace the forks,but did not replace the pivot bolts.
I just drove it for 10 weeks without fixing it while waiting for new pivot bolts. I removed the split pins from the adjusting bolts and wound the calipers apart a bit and pulled them away from the disc then tightened the pivot bolts and put the split pins back in the adjusting bolts.
The handbrake calipers can be removed without dropping the IRS,just remove the pivot bolts and handbrake cable and slide them over the back of the disc and wriggle them out though the space to the outside rear of the discs,unless the XJS doesn't have the same amount of room to work with(I have had them out twice this way) . When I say room I mean a space not quite big enough to properly use tools,but it is doable.
I installed my IRS without the handbrake calipers on because I was waiting on parts. Just got it all sorted yesterday. It took a lot of swearing to get the pivot bolts in properly.
As Greg said,when the calipers are out of the car remove the cover plates and clean and lube the self adjusters, be careful of the tiny springs in there. They fly a long way and are to find on a garage floor. See link below to my handbrake rebuild.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...dbrake-117051/
Hope this helps,please correct me if I am wrong XJS guys.
I had a similar problem after rebuilding my handbrake calipers, I did replace the forks,but did not replace the pivot bolts.
I just drove it for 10 weeks without fixing it while waiting for new pivot bolts. I removed the split pins from the adjusting bolts and wound the calipers apart a bit and pulled them away from the disc then tightened the pivot bolts and put the split pins back in the adjusting bolts.
The handbrake calipers can be removed without dropping the IRS,just remove the pivot bolts and handbrake cable and slide them over the back of the disc and wriggle them out though the space to the outside rear of the discs,unless the XJS doesn't have the same amount of room to work with(I have had them out twice this way) . When I say room I mean a space not quite big enough to properly use tools,but it is doable.
I installed my IRS without the handbrake calipers on because I was waiting on parts. Just got it all sorted yesterday. It took a lot of swearing to get the pivot bolts in properly.
but it is sometimes a sod getting those two long bolt things that the handbrake calipers pivot on back into their holes and restarted.
Finally, did you pull the handbrake self adjusting mechanism apart and clean and hi-temp grease it? That helps too.
greg
Finally, did you pull the handbrake self adjusting mechanism apart and clean and hi-temp grease it? That helps too.
greg
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...dbrake-117051/
Hope this helps,please correct me if I am wrong XJS guys.
Last edited by o1xjr; 08-15-2014 at 02:31 AM.
#6
#7
The handbrakes calipers are self-adjusting ....no periodic adjustment needed after the initial set-up.
The *is* a cable adjustment just aft of the handbrake handle. You'll see the adjuster nuts on the cable, item #15 in this illustration:
Handbrake Assembly and Cables - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
It's been years since I've done the adjustment on an XJS so I can't remember how to access the nuts. Maybe with the seat all the way forward?
Can we assume that your handbrake isn't working? If so, it's almost always a problem with the calipers. Lack of use and years of dirt combine forces to render the calipers seized in the 'not applied' position
Cheers
DD
The *is* a cable adjustment just aft of the handbrake handle. You'll see the adjuster nuts on the cable, item #15 in this illustration:
Handbrake Assembly and Cables - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
It's been years since I've done the adjustment on an XJS so I can't remember how to access the nuts. Maybe with the seat all the way forward?
Can we assume that your handbrake isn't working? If so, it's almost always a problem with the calipers. Lack of use and years of dirt combine forces to render the calipers seized in the 'not applied' position
Cheers
DD
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#8
The cable adjuster is just behind the driver's seat on the sill. You have to pull up the carpet to get at it, with the seat as far forward as it will go and the back of the seat tilted forward.
If you have the inboard brakes, then setting up the handbrake is a big job if the pads are either gone or the calipers are out of adjustment. In other words, just adjusting the cable may not do the job, if the calipers are out of adjustment.
Again, for inboard braked axles only, if you need to do more, having had a go at the cable, I have a detailed writeup of how I finally fixed my handbrake to work as well as a modern one, and be far more robust than the standard. PM me if you would like me to send you a copy. But resign yourself to dropping the axle if the handbrake cable adjust does not so it.
Greg
If you have the inboard brakes, then setting up the handbrake is a big job if the pads are either gone or the calipers are out of adjustment. In other words, just adjusting the cable may not do the job, if the calipers are out of adjustment.
Again, for inboard braked axles only, if you need to do more, having had a go at the cable, I have a detailed writeup of how I finally fixed my handbrake to work as well as a modern one, and be far more robust than the standard. PM me if you would like me to send you a copy. But resign yourself to dropping the axle if the handbrake cable adjust does not so it.
Greg
#9
Just a little confused. I thought the hand brake was a shoe arrangement and not a caliper?
I am at a point where I must do a front, and rear inboard brake job, and the rear disks have about a 1/8 inch outer ridge. My problem is that I can't do the work (age) and can't find a garage to tackle the rear job, except for pad replacement. What is the possibility of success for only a pad replacement in the rear and a full brake job in the front? My driving habit is low speed (30 to 50 MPH), and about 200 miles a year. Pad replacement is about $115.00 in rear. Selling the car is not an option!
As the King said in the King and I: It's a puzzlement!
I am at a point where I must do a front, and rear inboard brake job, and the rear disks have about a 1/8 inch outer ridge. My problem is that I can't do the work (age) and can't find a garage to tackle the rear job, except for pad replacement. What is the possibility of success for only a pad replacement in the rear and a full brake job in the front? My driving habit is low speed (30 to 50 MPH), and about 200 miles a year. Pad replacement is about $115.00 in rear. Selling the car is not an option!
As the King said in the King and I: It's a puzzlement!
#10
Hi Afterburner
Adjusting the Handbrake is easy, the Adjuster is just behind the Seat like 'Greg' said.
Just undo the 'Lock Nut' then Screw the other one in (against the tube) to tighten the cable up.
Replacing the Rear Brake Pads is also easy to do but before you tackle that, make sure that the Bleed Nipples are not seized up and can be undone.
But if you're getting a Shop to do it, then that will be their problem.
Location of the Hand Brake Adjuster
Just behind the Drivers Seat (UK) Car.
Just undo the Lock Nuts where you see the Spanner, then Screw the Nut against the Tube to tighten it up.
Replacing the Rear Brake Pads is quite easy but first make sure the Bleed Nipples are not Seized up and can be undone.
Or you could easily end up with a much bigger problem than the one you have got now.
Providing you can get underneath, replacing the Rear Brake Pads is quite easy.
Adjusting the Handbrake is easy, the Adjuster is just behind the Seat like 'Greg' said.
Just undo the 'Lock Nut' then Screw the other one in (against the tube) to tighten the cable up.
Replacing the Rear Brake Pads is also easy to do but before you tackle that, make sure that the Bleed Nipples are not seized up and can be undone.
But if you're getting a Shop to do it, then that will be their problem.
Location of the Hand Brake Adjuster
Just behind the Drivers Seat (UK) Car.
Just undo the Lock Nuts where you see the Spanner, then Screw the Nut against the Tube to tighten it up.
Replacing the Rear Brake Pads is quite easy but first make sure the Bleed Nipples are not Seized up and can be undone.
Or you could easily end up with a much bigger problem than the one you have got now.
Providing you can get underneath, replacing the Rear Brake Pads is quite easy.
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