The first symptom was that the engine suddenly stopped while driving.

Once the igniter was removed and reinstalled, the engine could start without any problems.

After that, there was no problem for a while, but if I stop the engine and try to start it again after 1-2 hours, the engine will not start.
At that time, the engine could be started once the igniter was removed and reattached.
It lasted 3 times and finally the engine did not start at all.
After that, when the igniter was removed and the iron plate on the back side and the body were connected with appropriate wiring, it seemed to start for a moment.

At the moment the cell is turned, a spark is generated on one plug. Each time you turn the cell, only one spark is generated. The order of sparks occurs in the firing order.

If the harness connected to the igniter and the body is rubbed strongly against the igniter in the above state, all the plugs will fly in order, but the sparks are weak. The engine starts weakly for a few seconds, but stops immediately. At that time, abnormal heat was generated in the igniter.

Repeatedly, the engine started without any problems. When the engine starts without any problem, no heat is generated in the igniter.

Polished all body earth. ∙ Touch the engine harness while starting the engine, but the engine will not stop due to poor contact.

Although the engine is currently started, it is expected to stop again. The cause is unknown. Why is the igniter generating abnormal heat?

 

Hi

Being unfamiliar with term 'Igniter' please could you give a description of the part you are referring to

 

Attach the igniter image. ¡Attached near the back of the right headlight.

 

Hi

I think the part you refer to as the Igniter, is more commonly known as the Ignition Module and looking at your Photo, it isn't at all surprising why its getting Hot because that very Shiny Silver plate behind it is the Heat Sink

And the Pink Coloured Wire jammed in behind it, is preventing this Heat Sink from doing its job of taking the Heat away from the Ignition Module, which should not only be Sitting Flush against that Silver Plate but should also be bedded down with some Thermal Paste

Like you would use to bed down the CPU on a Computer and if you leave it like it is, if it hasn't burned out already it soon could do

 

If you need thermal paste; “Arctic Silver 5” thermal compound for computer CPU’s works well, available at any computer store. (3.5 grams for $5.10). Always clean off old paste if you are reinstalling a module (acetone)… do not mix pastes….

 

The image shows the test status while the cause is being identified.

Currently it has been restored.

Test environment when the ignition module generates heat.

1 Remove the ignition module and connect the cable on the vehicle body side.

2 Connect the back of the module and the body ground with a harness.

In the above state, there are a state where the engine stops immediately after starting, and a state where the engine starts without any problem.

The module overheated when the engine stopped immediately.
The module does not generate heat when the engine starts without problems.

The module overheated when the engine stopped immediately.
The module does not generate heat when the engine starts without problems.

 

Hi Cima

Were the Pink Wire and the Yellow Wire put on in order to try and do some sort of test, as otherwise there is no reason for them being on there

Also the Plug in Harness, doesn't look as if it has been pushed completely home

As for the Ignition Module, it has to be installed correctly with some Thermal Paste or it is never going to work and you'll always have problems, as without having access to some specialized equipment, you would not be able to tell what is going on inside the Ignition Module

Where if it hasn't already burned out and has been installed correctly you won't need to

Hope this helps

 

Thank you for the advice

The ignition module is installed with a carbon paste that is energized.

If the engine was idle for about an hour today, the engine stopped.Cannot restart.
The ignition module does not generate any heat.

We will report again if there is any progress after various investigations.

 

Don't overlook a failing ignition coil, that is intermittent... same symptoms as failing ignition module that is intermittent; both can be damaged by heat over time.... neither last forever.
The ignition module may be re-setting itself, when you remove power or ground and re-attach. Some times with intermittent, you have to resort to substitution...new coil is probably cheaper, but in the end you may wind up doing both. You want to be able to drive to store and not worry if you are going to have a restart problem after dark.

My mystery shut down at the most inopportune times was a one year old Lucas ignition coil...AAA knew me by first name/jaguar. Only found it by chance, as one day it would not start when it was at XKs unlimited shop for some brake work requiring it to be on lift. One hour of TS and a new coil, I have been good for 4 years. Changed the ignition module as a precaution after researching the history and the failure modes of the older amplifiers. (Stay away from new old stock and undocumented units from China... they are probable all made in China, but if it has AC Delco etc. on the part, it is the spec and quality testing you want)

Rgds
David

 

Hi David84XJ6

If Cima's Car has the later AJ16 Engine, then it won't have an Ignition Coil but an Individual Coil on each of the Six Plugs, although at the moment we do not know what engine is in Cima's Car

I'm Starting to think that maybe the CPS Crank Position Sensor could be a possible cause of the problem, as they can get a bit flakey when they get old

 

I replaced the ignition coil with a used one, but there was no change.

When the ignition module was removed, the contacts were polished, and the grounding work was carried out, the engine might suddenly start in good condition, so only the ignition module was inspected.

I will check the ignition coil again.

Thank you

 

Jaguar engine.
Distributor type
1 ignition coil
1 ignition module

The crank sensor is replaced with a new one, and there is no change in symptoms.

 

Hi Cima

Hopefully you're 'No Start Problem' is a Simple fix but when my 4.0L Car wouldn't start, a bad dream turned into a Nightmare! as I had never ever worked on one of these engines before, which in my case was the AJ16

Where apart from the different Coil Set Up, my AJ16 Engine was very similar to the AJ6

It took me at least a couple of weeks to finally get her going, where in order to do so, I tried 'Every Trick In The Book' all of which were suggested by members of this Forum

So in the unlikely event that you are having no luck and cannot get her running, then my own experience, may give you some ideas which in my case finally turned out to be some Stuck Injectors, aka £600 later OMG!

So if you have got to the stage where you're tearing your hair out!

Have a read through 'Carmen Won't Start' where I tried 'Every Trick In The Book' and finally got Her Running!

It's all there from the CPU to taking out the Injectors and the Fuel Rail and even doing a Compression Test

'Carmen Won't Start' 'Every Trick In The Book' to get my AJ16 Engine up and running!