When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Working slowly to get heads off. While doing that, coolant has to come out, strange thing, loosened lower radiator hose, less than one liter came out! So it's been running without any coolant almost. Incredible. What a history this poor car has. And overheating is likely the reason for the valve seat problems. But what caused the water to disappear? I've seen no leaks (but not much liquid left to actually leak). I had convinced myself the water pump was ok since a failing water pump drips water. But maybe that's what happened.
I guess my question is more, can something more serious cause the water to disappear? I've noted no strange exhaust fumes (but again, not much water left since I got it here). And oil is perfect, no sludge in it.
My thoughts right now are new water pump and thermostats and that should cover it. But am I missing something?
I wish I were there to ASSIST! And help.
Watching with interest!
You are missing the very high probability that an engine so overheated as yours must have been to cause his level of damage is very likely to no longer be true. I would find a replacement PDQ.
PDQ?
Anyway, it's not my car, so not my problem, just trying to help. When I get heads off I'll have full picture (maybe hole or damage to pistons) and then owner must decide how much money he wants to shovel further down into this hole in ground. BTW, here's a picture, it's beautiful!
ful
PDQ?
Anyway, it's not my car, so not my problem, just trying to help. When I get heads off I'll have full picture (maybe hole or damage to pistons) and then owner must decide how much money he wants to shovel further down into this hole in ground. BTW, here's a picture, it's beautiful!
ful
PDQ = pretty damn quick.
Half a day,,, well! A good thing! I'll PM you my email and you send the tickets along. What.an.offer!!!
It really IS a nice looking thing. And, is the owner INTENT on keeping and repairing? If not, would he take an offer? Not me, a friend. Send a second ticket and I'll bring her along, lol.
That is a very nice looking car and seemingly in very good condition, apart from the engine. There were two types if ignition system on the XJS V12, and that looks like a later car with the Marelli - as opposed the the earlier Lucas - system.
There are a great many individual components that can prevent a Marelli ignition car starting, and it is no surprise that many non-specialists could not find the fault. For example: ignition amplifiers, loom problems, two crank angle sensors, distributor, ECU loom, ECU itself, Throttle position sensor. There are many people on here with tremendous knowledge of these matters, and undoubtedly, given the desire, finance and willingness on the part of the owner (assuming a methodical path of diagnosis and repair is followed) once the engine is sorted (by repair or replacement) the car will run and run well.
Therefore it is a question of the owner's desire and ability to bother or not. Bear in mind that almost certainly the brakes, shock absorbers, tyres, suspension rubber components, fuel system flexible hoses, and ABS braking system components may need repair or replacement, and that a great deal of detailed maintenance on (for example) cleaning the earths on the electrical system and cleaning many connectors, will also be required. This is not economic for anyone but the owner to do, otherwise garage costs, if you can find one that knows what it is doing, will be in the thousands of euros.
So the owner needs to decide about all these matters, in a realistic way. In the UK (not far from you) there are many fully running XJSs for sale, and a running car will be a cheaper plan than paying a garage to repair this car. On the other hand, if the owner want to repair and run this car, it will be a great hobby and very satisfying, and I guarantee the forum will ensure he is successful. Even with the cost of a replacement engine, and all the parts needed to get the car 100% up to scratch, a realistic DIY budget would be about 7,000 euros.
Speaking of budget, just to have a baseline before calling the local guys, in your country, what would be the approximate cost of machine work, replacing 24 valve seats?
LHS (B bank) https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
Brand new still available. However, if the engine has been seeriously overheated, the blocck may well no longer be true (straight), in which case it is unsalvageable.
At the risk of getting egg on my face and anyway I love Omelettes!
I would respectfully disagree and say this Car is a Lucas Circa: 1988
No Stepped Rotor in the Distro and a Brake Booster System, rather than the Later Teves ABS as was fitted to Marelli Cars
And I'd also say that this Car may have had the Speedo Binnacle replaced at some time, as there is no way I can see how a Car in this condition could have possibly done such a High Mileage, as there is no wear whatsoever on the edge of the Seat Bolster and even the Brake Pedal looks like New!
If you've got the Chassis Number: Paul (ptjs) will be able to give you the full SP
Well, thanks for the clarification, and a bit of good luck, as I believe a Lucas, non-ABS car is easily the best combination to have from a refurb point of view.
Update, heads are at machineshop. So soon I have to adjust valve gap. I can't find a table with the shims, showing letters and thickness, preferably in mm, does anybody know? All shims it has now are in the P-S range
Update, heads are at machineshop. So soon I have to adjust valve gap. I can't find a table with the shims, showing letters and thickness, preferably in mm, does anybody know? All shims it has now are in the P-S range
Soon cylinder heads will be fixed. Then I need to reinstall them and set valve clearance. Getting a little confused both reading the manuals and youtubing. I'd prefer to install the tappet block and adjust valves before installing cylinder heads. Can I do that? Can I get the head on with tappet blocks installed (I'm pretty sure I can). Can I also get to the cylinder head nuts that need to be torqued precisely, or do I have to remove tappet block first, risking changing valve adjustment?
And regardless of sequence, can't find the torque needed for tappet block Allen head bolts?
YES to the tappet settings off the car. Only way to fly.
YES to installing the heads with cams etc in place. Only way I have ever done it.
Tappet block screw torque, no idea, I never found it, so sensible tight worked for 4 of mine, and they still be going. NO internet in those days however.
OK, so now the heads are fixed, and I'm assembling it again, hoping the best. I see now that I haven't taken enough pictures to be sure to assemble all the many vacuum hoses for all kinds of gadgets, mostly in the area on top of the right intake manifold. Does anybody know of a good service manual picture of all the vacuum hoses, that could help me?
12-09-2021, 11:50 AM
