Hi Tony

Giving up is not an option!

These sort of problems just go with the Territory.

Did you ever take the distributor out of the Engine? and I do mean the whole distributer which includes the Shaft.

Have you got any Photos of what you did or replaced in the distributor, maybe someone sold you the wrong Dizzy Spinner.

Not my area of expertise but someone might spot something that you may have overlooked.

 

orangeblossom, iv had the car for the past 12 years Distributor never been out of car or moved, only thing replacing in that time is distributor cap and rotor arm, i now im getting good spark just refixed original coil to make sure, if i go out in morning to try starting it i now there will be a loud bang from exhaust, which is the unburnt fuel from today,

 

how do u upload pics on to site i am 70 not in2 computers

 

trying to upload pic of car

 

trying to upload pic of car

 

Hi Tony

This is how you Post Pics

When you either start a thread or reply to one, just above the window where you have written your message (or Reply) you will see some Symbols.

Including: B I U A (then a Globe 'Thingy' with what looks like goggles) Then a Yellow Envelope with what looks like a (Couple of Pyramids, with a dot above them)

Photographers call that a Histogram (But you don't need to know that)

If you took your hands off the Keyboard, you will be looking at the Cursor Flashing

You can leave the Cursor where it is or move it But where ever you leave it Flashing, is the Place your Photo will appear

Leave the Cursor Flashing and Click on the Yellow Envelope with the Pyramids.

A Window will then open which says: Get File From Your Computer Click on its Green Bar

This will then take you straight to all the Files on your Computer

Open your Photos Folder and Click on the Photo you want

The Photo You Selected will then appear in a Separate Window (At which point you can add some Text if you want)

Then Click on the Upload Bar and within about 10 Seconds, Your Selected Photo will then appear on your Post.

It is very easy to do and just takes a matter of Seconds

If you want more than one Photo, then just rinse and repeat.

 

Hi Tony

Your Car looks an absolute Peach and we would love to help you get her up and running.

This is a total 'Shot in the Dark' but seeing those Twin Headlights, I'm wondering if your XJS 'may' have been fitted with Catalytic Converters?

With the possibility (howsoever small) that being the case, if one of those Cats has somehow got blocked this could also give you 'No Start Backfire Syndrome'

I would repeat this is Just a 'Wild Guess' but stranger things have prevented an XJS from Starting, so hopefully Grant will jump in at this point and

give us his expert opinion.

 

You say when you removed plugs they were dry, then you said if you go to start the car it will backfire, these are contradictory.

If there is no fuel it will not backfire.

If its backfiring through the exhaust then the spark is not timed correctly, possible distributor has jumped, jack shaft is loose or timing chain.

YOU NEED TO WORK METHODICALLY find and fix 1 problem then move on to the next.

You have NOT verified that the injection loom is in good condition and not causing intermittent injection.

Did you check where the timing mark is on the damper when piston 1A is TDC on compression stroke.

 

orangeblossom, no cat on car i changed lights about 8years ago,

warrjon, dont now much about timing never had to time a car, all as i now is a1 piston tdc and rotor arm is facing no1 plug lead on a bank,

 

Hi Tony

It does sound like the timing is the problem as Warrjon, Jig Jag, Grant, Greg and Doug have all mentioned and once that has been sorted out, I

reckon She will Start.

No doubt they will be sliding by and show you what to do.

 

 

This is important.

Put 1A TDC on compression stroke, use Grants method of pulling spark plug and use a bit of wire to set TDC, MUST be compression stroke.

Then under the car on the damper you will find a mark on the damper and a timing gauge on the cover, what number is the mark pointing to.

 

Hi Warrjon

This Stuffs new to me as well.

What do you mean by 'damper' ?

Do you mean some sort of Tie Rod or something like that, as I 'may' be able to get a Photo of the Timing Mark.

 

This might help.

Refitting the V12 distributor.pdf

By the by, damper is OZ talk, means food, or in Auto talk, the front pulley on the engine, that is rubber laminated to "dampen" harmonic vibrations, so then "harmonic balancer" creeps into the talk, talk.

I have read this post, and my understanding is:

Tony DROVE the car into storage.
Tony return after Winter, car wont start.

Please correct me if I have missed something right at the beginning.

If I have grasped the concept??, then I ask, how old is the fuel?????

Tony's engine is a 12.5:1 HI comp engine, and it will need FRESH fuel, and a FAT BLUE spark to start it, no exceptions.

Coffee time, then work, see ya.

 

Got no 1 a bank on compression stroke, ( best i can, ) removed scoop from under front of car found timing marks, mark on damper is 9 degrees after top deed center, rotor arm is pointing between 5B and 4A on distributor cap.

 

Sorry got it wrong its 9 degrees after top deed center.

 

Some clarifications needed!!!!


1. The pulley on the nose of the crankshaft is a component that includes a rubber divider. That provides a dampening of the crank shafts inherent vibrations. But, alas, with age, the utter ring can slip around. So, as the timing marks are on that outter ring, they no longer accurately indicate piston location, aka TDC. Top dead center. So, timing ignition to the marks on the dampener will not match it to the piston stroke.


2. There are two TDC's. We have a four cycle Otto engine. Only one is the correct one to set the distributor rotor to point to. It is the firing stroke. Setting the rotor to that one will mean the engine timing is 180 degrees off. Odd bangs and pops will ensue.


3. Using one of the many available methods, the true firing TDC must be found. Then only can the engine be properly timed and start. If all other stuff is OK.


Carl

 

Thats no good. And the dizzy has not been removed from the engine since it ran correct? It's way off time according to that rotor orientation. And not 180 degrees out either as it would be if on the exhaust stroke.

you are sure of it being on the compression stroke? TDC is easy to test but compression or exhaust stroke requires another check. Since you have a compression meter I'd pull the gauge off, thread the hose into the plug hole and blow. Should be sealed tight.

That timing seems almost arbitrary. I'd pull the dizzy and check the gears. Make sure you are on compression and at TDC before you do and don't rotate the engine while you have the dizzy out.

 

i filled rubber glove finger with tissue put it on my hand pushed into plug hole cranked eng slow, kept checking piston, felt compression push finger out of plug hole, im waiting for my mate a mechanic to get back to me, the distributor has never been out of car, ????????

 

Tony
Be careful. When piston A1 (ie UK driver's side, frontmost piston) is at TDC on the compression stroke, the rotor on the dizzy on a LUCAS ignition car should be pointing at the tiny cast "1" in the dizzy cap.
This place is NOT, repeat NOT, meaning the rotor is pointing AT piston A1. In fact, if the rotor is pointing at the tiny "1" cast into the dizzy cap, it will also be pointing (if you remove the cap tot look) roughly at piston B2 (ie Uk passenger side second piston from the front.


I have just read your post number 115 above, timed at 6.00, and this does NOT appear to be what you have described in it.