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i have genuine brand new Marelli coils for sale if interested , not fake ones ,
will add that your ' expensive ' Jaguar ones HAVE lasted 30+ years, will the ' cheap ' ones ? similar suspension and bushings etc have proven not to given time , though seem ' a cheap alternative ' at the time ?? just saying
BB
Last edited by Brake buster; 08-25-2020 at 05:37 AM.
I've used these for about 50,000 miles seems fine, these are the Amps, as for coils its swing and miss sometimes the bottom plug is different, I have two un-usable sparea because the cable plug has a nipple inside.
I know your driving, and that is the basis of my suggestion.
At high revs, not 7000, but the 3500-4000 you may have reachd, the fuel demand is higher than it would be in "D".
My 1st suggestion is to change the fuel filter, some FRESH fuel, and try again.
As you have stated, it has done this trip, driving style, many time without issue.
THEN
The fact you drop it into "D" and it is fine, points to fuel. If the drop to "D" did bugga all, then I would say electrical, as the load on the plugs etc etc is higher with the increased load of lower rec torque.
AND
A GOOD QUALITY fuel filter is peanuts, and I know you luv "peanuts".
As for clogged filters I ran Techron (and still do when I find it) and this, or any quality cleaner will utter clog your filter and weigh it down like a frozen pop can! If your system is caked with 30 years of sludge and varnish even a hard drive can lift off crud and send it through the system.
I hardly dare even mention this but I've never changed the Fuel Filter ever since I bought the Car, which was light years ago!
As unlike 'Cherry Blossom' for reasons that have never been clear, I never got around to doing that on '50 Shades' my Grey XJS which was treated like a garage queen by the previous owner ('Shame on Me')
So that will be the first job I do before I use her again (and Vancouver I'll also do the 'Swirl Pot')
Looks like you nailed it again!
As after what you were saying it does point to Fuel and a Blocked Filter
If not for the Virus, We all would have chartered the Concord, and come and given you a lesson in "slack ownership", Then YOU would have taken ALL of us to the most expensive eatery in the UK, and paid the bill without complaint.
JOKING of course, the Concord is sadly gone, BUGGA.
As well as the filter and swirl pot, I would get some Injector cleaner, and double the dose. So, if the bottle treats 60litres, put that bottle in 30litres, and drive it for at least an hour. Dont pour that stuff in, and leave the Queen in the Palace, that will not clean the system.
My only excuse, although I don't really have one is that Summer in the UK can sometimes last for only a matter of days, in which case doing essential Maintenance went right out of the Window, in favour of making the most of driving the Car
Knuckles well and truly rapped and lesson learned! (I hope!)
Yeah, that cutting out around 7,000 RPM is simply one of your connecting rods trying to get through the side of the engine block. Just keep at it, and the "problem" will resolve itself...
All these suggestions sound great and would benefit an older car.
Just wondering if a Seafoam treatment would be worth doing. Run the can directly into the intake system. I'd certainly do that first. Nothing to lose, and the electrical and fuel maintenance items mentioned should follow.
This my first reply on the forum - finally have a small bit of advice to share on Seafoam.
i am always skeptical of snake oil products and rarely feel the urge to try them. I saw Seafoam on sale on day and figured what the heck - give it a try.
Background... I bought a ‘93 XJS 4.0 last year and have been knuckle busting it ever since. Pleased to say it’s actually running pretty well now.
It sat for around not running / moving for 4 years before I bought it and was a little rough running (ya think). After I got it road worthy, took it on a nice straight stretch and let the engine warm up. Many things cleared up, but something still not exactly right.
Back to Seafoam... dumped my on-sale can into a half filled tank go gas and warmed up the engine again. In my case, I think the Seafoam helped a lot as the engine idle smoothed out, and while I can’t get to 7,000 RPM myself, I could get past 5,000 fairly easily.
My take is that the Seafoam couldn’t hurt, and it may have prevented me from having to figure out how to pull the gas tank and change the fuel pump. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
When the Car is in drive She runs perfect regardless of top speed but there are some very twisty roads where I like to Manually put and leave the Shifter in (2) instead of (D) where regardless of the gear changes that happen inside the gearbox, when the Shifter is moved Manually from (D) to (2) and left in (2)
When the Revs have gone up to around 7,000 rpm
That is when the Engine starts to Stutter and Shake like it is misfiring and that is when I put her back in (D) and then continue the rest of the journey in (D)
This has only recently started to happen, as before I could drive around with the Shifter in (2) for as longs as I wanted without any problem
probably hitting the rev limiter that cuts ignition.
cant just drive it past redline.
Is this a standard? or automatic?
I think I would want to check voltage input at that high rev range perhaps over voltage problem or something like a corroded connection on the ign. system breaking down under those revs. or something as mundane as a H.T. breakdown.
You are at the upper range for the Jag engine, so ordinary things need to perform at "peak" performance levels.
Please let us all know the fix Thanks
Malcolm
Last edited by AustinSwallow; 08-27-2020 at 10:35 AM.
Reason: miss- spelled word
Everything's is ok when I am in drive but when accelerating in 2nd at around 7,000 RPM the Engine seems to cut out and pull up but if I put her back in drive then She runs as normal
08-25-2020, 05:30 AM
