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Hey guys, New member and new XKR owner. Question. One of my lower control arm hydrabush (as listed in the manual) has leaked dry. Looks that the other side has lost fluid at some point in time as well. If not replaced will I cause other problems and start getting front end noise? So far it feels the same while driving. Independent shops are quoting $1600 - $2300 to fix. Thanks Mike
Hey guys, New member and new XKR owner. Question. One of my lower control arm hydrabush (as listed in the manual) has leaked dry. Looks that the other side has lost fluid at some point in time as well. If not replaced will I cause other problems and start getting front end noise? So far it feels the same while driving. Independent shops are quoting $1600 - $2300 to fix. Thanks Mike
I have 2 control arms with new oem jaguar bushings already pressed in for $200 shipped. mark the eccentrics remove and replace with these nd then go get it aligned. you can do in your driveway on jack stands and save all that money PM ME
ok. then from that link above you can replace them with poly ones that are designed to run without oil and have a lifetime guarantee
designed to rattle your teeth loose as well. I've had poly bushes before. It's like riding a Harley hardtail. OEM will probably outlast the OP's ownership.
it depends on the quality of the bush, they're certainly not all the same.... purple powerflex you wont feel any extra NVH wheras the black solid ones (for race) you certainly will...
it depends on the quality of the bush, they're certainly not all the same.... purple powerflex you wont feel any extra NVH wheras the black solid ones (for race) you certainly will...
Definitely the ones JonWat posted. Wiped the grease right off it hours after it left a puddle in my garage. Did not know there were poly options at lesser cost. Have not considered self replacement, Yikes, But Brutal offers a good solution. Whole lot cheaper. I will search the forum and web for how-to on this one.
Brutal, This appears to be something an average professional tinkerer can do by himself. Manual says to torque the bolts with the cars weight on the suspension, Don't think I would have that option, Do I need ramps or is this not necessary, Also understand now thanks to other posts about marking prior, Mike
Brutal, This appears to be something an average professional tinkerer can do by himself. Manual says to torque the bolts with the cars weight on the suspension, Don't think I would have that option, Do I need ramps or is this not necessary, Also understand now thanks to other posts about marking prior, Mike
its a easy repair. 18mm deep socket, 15mm wrench to remove the through bolt from the small end of the arm. I mark the eccentric with a small paint line to reassemble the eccentric in the same spot. and most of the time there's no adjustment needed at that point when aligning. A 18mm wrench on the bolt and 22mm or 21mm wrench on the eccentric nut and washer end. some years and models use a 21mm. doesn't matter the 22mm fits just fine either way. I use a gear wrench 22mm cause its a lot faster. Take off the washer and nut and pull out the bolt with you fingers enough to get the arm out and replace with the new piece. Reassemble. on the putting the weight on the car I just snug the bolt a bit on the lift and then drive around to the alignment machine. When on the alignment rack I loosen the nut on the eccentric and retighten it down. The small end doesn't matter being on the ground. You tighten that in the air, that's a swivel and pivots with the suspension movement. So do the job, snug the eccentric nut a little and then go have it aligned and have them loosen and tighten it down.
Go with Powerflex Poly Bushings. I have installed every poly bush Powerflex makes on my X150 XKR and ZERO problems. No squeeks no hard ride nothing but nice taught suspension that has full articulation. No need to have weight on the suspension when tightening a poly bushing as there is no preloading that the old rubber bushings require.
I have 5 other cars that also ride on poly bushings, no issues on any of them. The same taught controlled suspension feel that is greatly improved over stock. The suspension geometry stays where it should and you have full articulation without the resistance the rubber bushings have.
Go with Powerflex Poly Bushings. I have installed every poly bush Powerflex makes on my X150 XKR and ZERO problems. No squeeks no hard ride nothing but nice taught suspension that has full articulation. No need to have weight on the suspension when tightening a poly bushing as there is no preloading that the old rubber bushings require.
Thanks for the opinion. I have been considering this approach for years but was reluctant as I actually prefer the stock handling of the car (over my friend's cars that feel like gokarts.
I always thought: Regularly changing the bushes comes with the territory.
Go with Powerflex Poly Bushings. I have installed every poly bush Powerflex makes on my X150 XKR and ZERO problems. No squeeks no hard ride nothing but nice taught suspension that has full articulation. No need to have weight on the suspension when tightening a poly bushing as there is no preloading that the old rubber bushings require.
I have 5 other cars that also ride on poly bushings, no issues on any of them. The same taught controlled suspension feel that is greatly improved over stock. The suspension geometry stays where it should and you have full articulation without the resistance the rubber bushings have.
Thanks for the input ! How dificult to replace bushings with powerflex? I'm mainly looking to stop flex and prevent wheel hop at the drag strip
I changed the large bushes on my XK back in the summer as one side was leaking.
I managed to get hold of 2 original bushes form a Jag main dealer off EBay for around £22 for both.
As the parts were so cheap I also managed to but a 12 ton stand press for £95 also off EBay which will come in handy.
There has been a few changes and superseded options for this part over the years and I believe the later ones are not oil filled.
But mine were OE and oil filled.
A fairly easy job and I don’t have a ramp. I do have an alignment shop only a mile away so took it straight there after I changed them.
You will need some sort of drift to push the first one out but you can the use the removed bush as a drift after pushing the centre out.
I seem to remember that has been mentioned on this forum that these lower control arms are Ford and the same as on a Lincoln model over there. So the complete arm is available at a very reasonable cost. Worth a search
Thanks for the input ! How dificult to replace bushings with powerflex? I'm mainly looking to stop flex and prevent wheel hop at the drag strip
Original bushing removal is the hard part as the arms are iregularly shaped. You will need a press. Installing the Powerflex bushings is easy and can pretty much be done with a good bench vise.
Extremely well worth the effort!
Sometimes you have to get creative in how to set up the arm in the press.