Was running great 5 days ago and all of a sudden:

won’t cranks and is throwing:

DSC not available
cannot apply parking brake
low
Engine oil pressure low p
Engube temperature indicator fault
Battery not charging
Transmission fault

All without engine running!

Tried to jump start and no joy
So first step New Battery - replaced under warranty. :-)
No joy

same issues

all out of ideas and need help from guru community!

 

Take a reading from the new battery, it should read 12.6 volts across the terminals (positive- negative . If it don't read 12.6 put it on full charge for at least 4hrs , but take the reading first

 

Yep, bad battery voltage. Happens all the time.

 

Just to make it clear: a new battery does not = a fully charged battery. In fact it is almost the opposite! The symptoms presented are those of battery failure, either internally or as evidence of low charge. Charge the battery fully and presto! the car will start and the other symptoms will disappear.

 

Thanks gang, I was along the right lines. Turns out I had 2 issues.

1 - new battery was low as you guys nailed
2 - my battery charger is/was fried too and indicated full battery when it was far from it. A handy call to a neighbour and a few hours at 8amps cured the issue.

When I reconnected the Jag came back with the park brake reset routine, and by now my brake pedal was rock solid. On doing the routine this time, it suddenly “released the pressure” from the brake pedal and I was on business. She fired on the first crank. All is gravy, now!

Thanks to everyone that chipped in. I was about to order a replacement ECU and all sorts of Anglo Saxon curse words were too of mind!

BTW battery was replaced under warranty from Canadian Tire :-)

 

Take the money you were going to spend on that ECU and buy a CTEK or similar quality battery maintainer.

 

Good news . I hear that Canadian tire is a huge store for car things pity we dont have the same over here

 

A canadian staple, really. Don't just go for the car stuff.

 

Buy the ctek!

 

I Strongly second the value of the CTEK battery maintainer. I learned a similar lesson as you from my 07 XK; The battery will drain if it is not driven for more than a week. Especially if you have the alarm set. There are components in that car that draw small periodic charges (beside the alarm) that will drain the battery. Another device that is Excellent to know about, especially with JAGUARS, is called Priority Start. We had my wife’s 2003 Jag S-type for 10 years as her daily driver for work, which sat outside all day while at work. Even after replacing with a fully charged battery, it would still not start in the evening for her drive home form work(not an alternator/generator issue). I had learned from this forum of Jaguar wire insulation decay leading to bare wire grounding against metal causing battery drain. Realizing the futility and expense to try and find the bad wire(s), I learned about PRIORITY START. The device connects onto the positive terminal and has a chip programmed to monitor the battery’s charge and outgoing charge. If the device detects the battery charge falling too close to the minimal charge required to start the car, the device shuts off all outgoing charge. Once the driver steps on the brake to start the car, the device resets and the car starts. Never had that problem again as long as we owned that S-type. We have since turned it in on another Jaguar, but I kept The Priority Start device.

 

"Priority Start"? I've never heard of this device. Is it a dealer installed gadget? More details please.
Based on your description, it sounds like a nice additive for occasional driven cars. I have learned through this forum, in addition to the CETEK, (I own three), locking the car, even when garaged will reduce parasitic voltage power losses.

 

I have a "Priority Start" on my F150 due to its infrequent use.
It's a single component put on the positive battery post in-series with the main power cable. It will disconnect the battery from the vehicle electronics if the voltage drops below a certain level, like 11.8 volts or whatever it is.
I LOVE the one on my truck, it has saved me from walking many times.

 

You should get your battery or car checked out then because it should be able to sit for 4 weeks or more without having a big impact on the battery, especially if you lock it when not in use.

 

I will defer to others as to what decreases “parasitic battery drain” in regard to keeping a car alarm armed or disarmed while stored. The Priority Start device I found and purchased on line. If you installed the CTEK Battery Tenders yourself on your vehicles, then you will have no trouble installing this device. Simply search on PRIORITY START and you will find all you need to know. A valid point was made that if you are having electrical issues, to have them checked by a trusted mechanic. I chose this route because I did not want to invest the time and $ at the dealership for a 10 year old S-Type that we were going to replace within the year anyway. For us, this worked perfectly.

 

Thanks all for your input, I wanted to follow up and seek further advice. A week on and with a new CTEK, and a new battery the car has been running great and I figured all was good, but:

Jumped in this morning for a ride, she fired up and as I pulled out of my driveway just died on me. Multiple warnings per start of the thread.

I sat and lodged the button and there was long delay and she started. I reversed back down the drive (5-10ft) and she died again. Got one more start with an OBD attached and I captured a U0100 code relating to ECM.

I’m now looking at an ECU replacement and or PCM replacement as root cause. Opening for input and comment for anyone with experience. I’m planning to do the work myself but wondered if the modules had to be coded (shop job) or were swappable with no other voodoo?

Any experience or other points to look at greatly received.

I am on my way to warranty my battery replacement - although it’s 5 days old and appears to be holding capacity, I am suspicious.

thanks in advance to you all for your help!

 

Sadly the battery stood up to charge and load checks, and appears healthy- I’ll charge it over the weekend, next suspect is the OBD codes and ECP and PCM swap outs.

Has anyone done this or have insights and tips?

 

Check the ECM power and ground circuits for shorts first. Look for rats nests or chewing through wires. You're going to want to inspect the wiring before considering replacement of the ECU. Powered through the EMS Relay R11B. Check fuses F02, F12, F14, F03 ( all of these are in the engine bay distribution box). Check and re-check the ground points. These are all more likely than a failed ECU depending on miles I guess.

 

You also may need a proper diagnostics with the factory tools as they are much more in depth and specific for troubleshooting and pinpointing.

 

Ty! I have confirmed all fuses ok, physically removes, inspected and cleaner just in case - ditto earth points. No birdie or rodent damage or nests visible.

Battery load tested and checks out ok at supplier (although I am still sceptical). Battery currently being charged.

At this stage if I could drive to my local dealer I would but I don’t even get it to crank at the moment.

Car has 160,000 km or just a smudge over 104,000 miles.

 

Sorry to hear that. If you confirmed all ground and power points using a voltmeter from fuse box to ECM, then what jahummer said above. You should have 12.6 volts resting at the battery. If it's lower, battery is no good. You'll know soon enough after charging.