In one of his earlier pics there were 2 MOST loops supplied.

 

Check this thread

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-237605/page5/

 

This video is easy to follow

 

Well, I spent several hours this morning reviewing that very video (which I'd grabbed from a previous thread and re-sent to me yesterday by the Seller) going step by step through each and every connection. To the best of my knowledge they are all correct. I will submitted each and every connection in a series of photographs to the seller for their review. So far - no sound. The HVAC functions work, I'm able to play the video, connect to bluetooth and WiFi/internet which enables access to many of the installed applications. I even received a telephone call from a friend, and since my iPhone was paired to the Tesla style video screen, it displayed the call information but ... no sound through the vehicle speaker system. I tried unplugging the provided speaker and trying it with and without that component attached, and the soundless state remains.

I am also continuing to experience the dashboard error message(s) and (though I had not shared this with your previously) my Daylight Running Lights (DRL's) flash, alternating between the driver and passenger side as if they're emulating the 4-way emergency flashers. The dashboard error message currently consists of "Hood not latched". I've never seen any OEM message from Jaguar that doesn't refer to the "hood" as a "Bonnet" and the "trunk" as a "Boot", so this error message is clearly being generated by the new device.

As a final step in the process, I reconnected the functioning "Audio Control Module" (ACM) components, dongles, wiring looms, etc. These were in working order prior to removing the Jaguar OEM head unit and beginning the replacement process with the Tesla style video screen unit. Again, I was unable to product any sound from the stereo speakers with the ACM components included in the mix (admittedly, I was "grasping at straws" here hoping for a miracle), so they were disconnected and removed from the equation.

I'm hopeful that the Seller's review of the connection pictures will catch something that I have not. Again, without an installation manual or set of step-by-step instructions, this process is not nearly as "plug and play" as suggested.

We'll see what they come back with and go from there. It's either going to be a successful implementation or I will initiate a refund request (backed by my credit card provider). I'm disappointed that I find myself at this fairly significant fork in the road, but here we are.

 

Thanks, Sean. As noted in my response to Jeremy above, I think I've got them where they need to be. I'm going to check one other crazy idea (blown amp fuse) to see if that's the reason for the Simon & Garfunkle experience* with the new head unit. I did a series of swaps yesterday with those MOST loops despite having followed along correctly with the "installation video" I was using as a guide just to see if I missed something or if a different approach would solve the problem. I hope that experimentation didn't zap something internally.




* "Sound of Silence" song reference, and even though I sang that song in Junior High Choral Class based on the Simon & Garfunkle composition, the current version by "Disturbed" may be one of the best covers of any song I've heard in a decade. Terrific rendition, IMO.

 

Without a doubt. I first heard it on an episode of Blacklist. Their video is well done too.

FWIW (back up camera) CA023 Orange/Yellow is on RHD cars. LHD color is Orange/Green, apologies. You're using a different source though so irrelevant at this point. Just wanted to clarify.

 

Isn't "HOOD" also known as "Roof"???
Bonnet = engine cover panel
Boot = rear storage area
Hood = roof over pax compartment

 

Unless something is missing, I reckon the no sound issue is something really silly, it always seems to be especially in my field
of automation.

As for the errors, have you tried resetting the car and verifying the battery voltage status? Other than the hazards and climate I can’t think of anything else unless you disturbed something in the CANBUS when running wires for the camera or RSJB.

 

Aw, yeah, since In The Car and probably Doors Open, I sure hope you have some sort of power supply hooked to the battery.

 

Well, it's a convertible so it's going to be annoying AF if that's the case! But it's certainly a possiblity, Cee Jay. I'll start up the car and run the roof ... er, hood ... up and down to see if that clears the warning message.

 

Absolutely. It's on a C-Tek unit. I put that on last night after most of the electronic work was done as I suspected the battery might be getting a bit low. New AGM battery, though - like 2 months old.

I'll try disconnecting the cables and touching them together tomorrow to do a hard reset, but still ... pointless w/o sound.

 

I'll try the reset thing, but as noted in my reply above to Cee Jay it's on a C-Tek and plugged in. I did start and run the vehicle for a bit, and the new ADU from Cabrio Bob said I was putting out appropriate voltage, though I cannot recall the specific number right now.

Disturbing the CANBUS ... I sure hope I didn't disturb the vehicle's "central nervous system". My wire running for the backup camera was around the driver's side trunk area of the convertible top when it was dropped, and I saw a pretty clear path. The wire puller I used didn't encounter any resistance, and even though Sean W led me down a dark path on the CA023 RHD power source (JK, Sean), my time spent in the back seat aux panel, I only made on "TapIt" connection there and really didn't disturb anything else. It was nice to see the remote control convertible top controller again, though. That was a tough project for a guy my size to do, but we got 'er done.

Thanks for all the ideas, gentlemen. I'd have been up a creek without a paddle without your insight and perspective. I mean that.

 

Could the no sound problem have to do which sound system you have? I have no idea but does the base system have the amplifier built in the head unit and the premium sound has a better amplifier built into the subwoofer so the signals are routed differently.

 

I have shamed my family. Hard Kari is not off the table. I agree with Jahummer that you couldn't have impacted the CANBUS as you are just unplugging and connecting wires to the new unit. I know you indicated earlier that you reinstall the optic loop and here's where I'm confused. There are three MOST fiber optic connections used in the premium OEM system. You were given 2 bypass loops. I am confused as I would think you'd need 3 - IAM, ICM and TSD. I know you followed a video and I haven't watched it but your problem could still be in the MOST loop. I say this because you reinstalled the ACM but no mention of the ICM which would be required for OEM sound.

EDIT - OK I pulled up a product pick and saw the blue Head Unit MOST replacement part. That explains only needing two bypass loops.

Fuse F31 30 amp fuse in the AUX JB is power to the amp btw, and I know I have that one right:-)

 

NO HARI KARI !!! At least until this project is wrapped up!

Some morning updates:

I ran the convertible top up and down. That cleared the "hood" warning message on the dashboard. Hat tip to @Cee Jay for his across-the-pond language interpretation skills.

And I've received a message from the Seller that indicates there's a "turn on power amplifier" setting somewhere in the screen. I've been through all of them and cannot locate it, and they're asking an engineer to take pics and send them back to me so I can follow along. Hopefully, it's something that simple. Again, Jeremy suspected it might be something this simple.

IF - and I mean IF - I can get sound generated with the new screen sans ACM, then I'll try re-connecting those looms to see if I can re-integrate that functionality. Honestly, it's truly no longer needed, but I do like the sound improvement from a direct connected audio source vs. Bluetooth or over-the-air radio signals. However ... the new screen/head unit also comes with a full audio equalizer for tweaking the sound settings so who knows how this will go once the gremlins have been exorcized.

Getting closer, lads. I can feel it. Now I'm off to check that amplifier fuse. Thanks for that bit-o-knowledge, Sean.

 

Often a good tool for tracing wires and verifying there is indeed analog audio present is one of these tools, a tone tracer:

https://www.techtoolsupply.com/Progr...er-p/200ep.htm

EDIT: what came of the DRL issue you were experiencing? Remember on these cars after plugging and unplugging harness sometimes modules lose themselves and a reboot is required to sort everything.

 

I have SOUND! I disconnected the battery terminals, touched them together and swapped out the red-white RCA audio connections to another input (labeled as audio OUT, not audio IN) and I'm able to get sound from the new Tesla-style video screen. I immediately disconnected the straight settings and reconnected all of my ACM connections and after a brief delay ... SOUND!

So now I have to determine where to mount the radio and GPS antennas (they're connected via Seller provided cables and have peel-off sticky backs on them). There is a plastic piece within the dash window - I'm presuming that's the HVAC vent runs - that looks to be a good candidate for those mounting applications.

 

Fantastic!!! See, it did indeed to turn out to be something silly. Obviously not important now, but that tracer I mentioned above saves massive amounts of time troubleshooting and location wires as well as verifying if something is actually outputting sound (it's an inductive amplfier which easily picks up even the lowest levels of signal from wires, harnesses, etc).

Can't wait for the details on the screen itself...

 

I'll give a quasi-final update on the installation process via pictoral before moving on to general comments:

First, I had to find a home for a series of attached dongles that consisted of three radios and a speaker. I have no clue what the speaker is for as the car audio picks up spoken commands when pressing the "speak" or answer button on the steering wheel controls. I elected to leave it hooked up "just in case" it was for system warnings (announcer voice: it is not for system warnings).


GPS and Radio antennas


Radio & WiFi antennas and the back of the useless speaker. Peel-n-stick on the Radio antenna and the speaker.


The wiring jumble pre-closure. The screen is held in place by four #15 Torx screws (two up top and two at the bottom, which connect via two tabs at the bottom of the screen unit. You can see the GPS antenna and the front of the stupid useless speaker on the right.


These are the two bottom #15 Torx bolts that the screen tabs attach to. The things they were supposed to screw into (brass or copper colored receptacles) were attached to 12 year old brittle plastic that disintegrated when I gently removed the Torx bolts. I tried "crazy glueing" them to the mount area, but the tore loose the second any real pressure was applied. The bottom of the screen is attached ... but it ain't snug.


Installed, pumping out sound, and displaying titilating K-POP (or C-POP) female singing group videos. Note the walnut burl vs. honey burl trim disparity. The wrap has arrived, but I was under enormous pressure from Cee Jay to get 'er done and do the wrap later. So I will.


Backup camera and proximity sensors both operational ... with one minor detail. The 4 LED lights on the camera are persistently lit, though the camera only comes on the screen when the vehicle is placed into reverse. McGyvered the hell out of it: electricians tape over the LED's. I just won't back up at night!

Bottom line - it's in, it's operational, and I have access to my entire music library via Bluetooth vs. the ACM (now a dead artifact) iPod. I made and received a phone call via Bluetooth, and the Mrs. described my audio quality as "good, but heavy". I have no idea what that means, but she was also on her Bluetooth connection in her Land Rover when the calls took place, so there's that.

I'm still trying to figure out some things: how to upload my audio library for storage within the unit itself, how to active and use CarPlay - an option I paid for as I'm a heavy Apple user (and shareholder), etc. If I can figure out the audio, I suspect that uploading the video will follow a similar path. As a side note: there are two dongles that come with the device: one is a USB termination and the other is an HDMI termination. For now, I just routed them behind the dash and they're literally hanging out in the passenger-side transmission hump below the dash. I clearly need to do something with them, and will probably drop the glove box and mount them in there in lieu of the defunct ACM controls that are just taking up space in there. .

Whenever you try to launch the Video player, it plays what is loaded on the device (the K/C-Pop girl band video), but it's clear that you could hook up another video source to it and watch movies whilst toolin' down the highway. I'll try dragging a few songs over to a USB storage stick and see if they'll upload automatically when attached.

I was able to set-up and active my Google account, and set Google Maps as my current "Navi" option (until I can figure out CarPlay, because I really like the integration with the Apple Watch, which alerts you on that device to upcoming turns). WiFi is paired to my iPhone via Personal Hotspot, and pressing the "talk" or "answer" button on the steering wheel launches a Google web browser, which quickly brings up my search results as spoken. I haven't tried answering the phone with that button yet - limited Use Case here to comment on, so I don't know which behavior will take priority: call or Google browser on an incoming call.

If there's anything specific y'all would like me to investigate, comment on, or photograph - please let me know. And thanks again for everyone's support along the way. With that said, @peterv8 - you're on the clock!

 

Shown below are the pictures of the apps available on my screen. I'll attach my iPhone tomorrow via USB to see if I can get the CarPlay feature rolling.

Note - these pics were taken pre-install when it was not yet mounted in the dash,


Main or Home page. The background is pretty configurable, including a "Leaper" option.


Swiped from the right, 1st layer of app icons.


Swiped from the right, 2nd layer of app icons.


Swiped from the right, 3rd or last layer of app icons.

The little white "dot" in the upper right hand corner is configurable, and launches a mini menu of sorts. And by configurable I mean you can control size, intensity and location - not functions within the mini menu.