Hi guys, having a bit of nightmare.

When I try to start my car it just cranks for a long time but does not actually start. It was running fine when I parked it last night. The pedestrian warning system has come up as well.

This has happened before and it was taken to a local indy garage who suspected it was fuel starvation, replaced the fuel filter, charged the battery and cleared the fault codes.The problem seemed to fix itself for a few weeks. A new battery has been put in since then. Before this happened the first time, the tyre pressure system had warning on 4 tyres even after pumping them, and the instrument cluster and screen had been dimming.

After picking it up from the garage, the wipers would not turn off whilst the engine is running even when it isn't not set to auto. I had to resolve to taking wiperfuse out.


The problem has returned again and the car won't start. Ignition turns on fine so I'm not sure its an issue with the battery as its new. I have booked it into a garage in London to have the problem diagnosed.

Has anyone experienced similar issues.

 

Well, ‘what’ specific codes were cleared?

 

It had over 15 codes showing up even though some of those weren't showing issues.

 

99% of the time it's just that the battery has been allowed to drain itself from not being used. First and foremost, pull the battery leads and charge it overnight. Check the voltage with a meter and then let it sit a day or two unhooked and check again. If it drains below 12.3vdc replace it and keep the new one on a charger or use your car more often.

 

Yes, it is the battery. It us almost always the battery when multiple issues show up.

 

Another vote for battery.

I presume you don't keep the car on a CTEK or equivalent battery maintainer and possibly don't lock it when it's in the garage?

Graham

 

Thanks, I will be picking up a battery charger and maintainer today.

The car is stored in an underground carpark which unfortunately doesn't have mains to plug in the Ctek charger.

I now have 2 batteries so I will leave one in the vehicle and try to keep the other charged-up when the car hasn't been used in a while.

I will update if successful.

Thanks everyone

 

I have one of these Auto Low Battery Disconnects on my F150 due to using it only occasionally, and it's never disappointed me. I did have to hook up a remote momentary button to reactivate it, but it is an easy reach inside the wheel arch.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Prior...RoCCz4QAvD_BwE

 

*update*
Firstly, thank you all for your input so far.

I bought a battery charger and gave the battery a charge till it was full, but the car still did not start which was a bit disheartening.

It's now at a Jaguar specialist who are charging an arm and a leg for diagnosis and investigation. After initially confirming it was not the fuel pump, they've changed their mind and think the fuel pump needs replacing.

The problem is, they are choosing to ignore the other faults such as the wiper not turning off or the false warnings on the tyre monitoring system. Their rationale being once the car starts then they can look into those problems.

All problems started to appear at the same which makes me believe its all related. Does anyone know if a faulty fuel pump for trigger other electrical problems.

 

I have just come across this video on YouTube which is the same problem I'm having, although it is setting off other faults codes like the pedestrian warning system in my case. Hopefully the replacement pump solves the issue. I will update shortly.

Hope this helps others and saves them hours in unnecessary diagnosis charges.

 

dude I had this sort of same problem in my 2014 XKR which means your fuse box has gone bad.A mechanic shop did the same for me where they replaced the battery in it and it would start up for a few minutes and turn right back off and it would be hard for it to turn back on again.Then it gets back to the point where it would start up and shut right back off in less than 2 seconds,and it's only having the power to start up when it's on full charge since it was a new battery and all put in, but it's not able to stay running long enough to keep the full charge cause it will start throwing the codes again and shut your jag down to the point you can never turn it on again.if it's having something to do with tpms system,air bag system,and the super obvious code is CENTRAL ELECTRONIC UNIT,You might wanna check and replace your fuse box's DEFINITELY the fuse box that's in the middle of your back seat cause that's where the security and air bag fuses are.With that "air bag deployed"code it gave you,that means it's putting your car in a "safe mode" and thinks it shouldn't start so it won't start and hurt your engine.With THAT many codes the car has given you,it seems pretty obvious that's a fuse box problem anyway and the codes NEVER LIE bruh when it tells you that you need to fix something in your car that's gone bad,especially if those same codes came back after you thought you fixed it. Don't worry,fuse box's aren't expensive and you can get them for $100-$150.The thing is when mine went bad,i been to mechanic shops trying to rip me off when i had this kind of problem talking about $10,000 to put in a wiring harness and blah blah blah when all i realized i needed to replace is a $150 fuse box cause that's all that was wrong with mine and i'm in the Army and my job is 88m they teach you a lot about vehicles if your equipment breaks down on the road and you have to be competent enough to explain to the mechanics what's wrong with it so they can fix it for you.

 

A internal combustion engine will not run if:
Lack of air supply
Lack of adequate fuel supply
Lack of spark...or incorrect ignition timing
Poor cylinder condition...ie leaky valves, incorrect valve timing, leaky rings...poor compression.
Some times these conditions are difficult to isolate, but are none the less the root cause.
Don't become a part changer, find the fault and fix it. or find a real tech that will take the time to diagnose the issue.

 

with that "air bag deployed" code on from what i've learned from a very good mechanic shop, no matter how good of condition your car is in,you can kiss a perfectly good running car good bye once you have that code showing.

 

Have a fresh and fully charged battery, get a code reader and clear the codes.
Try to start
No start? Are there new codes?
Is there fuel pressure?

 

Fuel Injection systems have a safety feature that interrupts power to the fuel pump by means of a inertia cut off switch.
this turns off the fuel pump in case of an accident. So the car doesn't go BOOM. Maybe with all the related codes displayed,
the car thinks its been in an accident. Just spit balling.

 

We experienced a similar issue with a Cadillac years ago. The dealer replaced the fuel pump 3 times with no joy. I don't recall how we figured this out, but, at one point, we figured out that if one (me) would smack the bottom of rear floor behind the driver's seat while one (my wife) was attempting to start the car, the engine would fire. it was an intermittent problem too. It took several trips to the dealer before one of the technicians pin pointed (pun intended) a multi-pin connector inline between the in-tank fuel pump to the engine management system was at fault through corrosion.
May not be the problem in this case, but, worth the consideration.

 

HA. RedRider, that reminded me of my days many years ago. When I was in school I had an MGB with a bad fuel pump (electric). For a month or so while I could not afford to buy a replacement, I carried a hammer with me so that when the pump quit, I could bang on the firewall behind the passenger seat to get it going again.
Totally off subject, but could resist sharing.

 

The car has finally been sorted after a hefty bill and few months at the garage.

Firstly, the fuel pump replacement didn't fix the issue. The ignition still huffed and puffed but the car still wouldn't start . Thankfully, the warranty covered part of the replacement cost.

The fault was then traced to a communication issue at the auxiliary fuse box in the rear seat. Replacing this seems to have solved the problem. Word of advice, most warranties don't cover fuse boxes, well not in the UK anyway. Their excuse being, the fuse box could have been damaged by driving through a puddle.....a puddle deep enough to submerge the rear seats?


I am still livid at the misdiagnosis, but the garage are adamant they identified a fault that warranted replacing the fuel pump. Anyway, new parts never hurt an old Jag

Hope this helps someone someday.

 

Interesting... diagnosed in thread # 11 above.

 

Stumped by this problem, his mechanic decided to browse Jaguar Forums to look for a solution and found it on post #11. That will be £1500 please.