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Well Huh............ That sounds exactly like when I had an injector go bad. Lots of black smoke, ran like crap, Restricted Mode....
Does your crankcase smell like gasoline?
I know you are in a badaway so its best to keep a clear mind.
Forget about the oil related issues and timing chain.
Look for the known issues, injectors (yes that is oil related, and you used a oil that would cause that, but then again if you made it to 150k miles you are teaching us a thing or two)
Why are you keen to get a new engine. Yes its a direct swap but remember what they say about the devil you know.
Your engine may be in better condition than the one with 50k miles on it. Its not like they have been tested. And because it came out of a more common car, its less likely to have been cared for- the car's demise is proof of that.
Yes its been a great performer for 149K miles. I am getting a report from the mechanic today which I will share once I have it.
I tried jump starting it from my wife's car, it did not seem to have the power to get it started. I had experienced that before. When I installed a brand new battery it cranked up and sounded as if it was not firing on all cylinders and crazy rough. It cut out. I started it three times and I managed to get in to reverse out of garage before it cut out again. Lumpy, loud, black sooty water from tail pipe.The Check engine light flashing and then The Restricted mode warning came on.
I changed the oil every 8K with Mobil 1 Extended Life 5 / 20 which is what I understood to be the same specs as The Castrol oil. It appears that should have been 0/20??
No ticking beforehand. Ran and idled Perfectly! I did have a check engine light that came on and off. It suggested that it may have been the MAF Sensor. Had it looked at and they said it was good. Light would go off for weeks and then pop back on for days. No loss of power. No gas mileage decreases. Accelerated as always. Had spark plugs changed $5K miles prior to this happening. .
I am no mechanic, but given that it was perfectly fine when you parked it, and then running like a bag of bolts next time you started it up, it seems unlikely to me that a critical engine component will have broken while the car was standing still doing nothing. And even less likely that if it had you would find metal particles in the oil so easily. So I'd suspect some other cause, making it misfire badly which would also make it 'lumpy' and possibly emit smoke from the exhaust. As others have said, get it properly diagnosed, using the fault codes, and then get a reliable estimate for repair from a Jaguar specialist. It's too soon to be talking about new engines IMO. Whatever the cause, I feel your pain and hope that it can be fixed for sensible money.
I had to replace the engine in my 2014 XK this summer a month after buying it when it started overheating. They found metal shavings embedded in the oil filter and heard a 'knock' deep in engine somewhere. I never got a final explanation on what actually happened to it but thankfully it was still under warranty and they were able to find a used engine off another 2014 with fewer miles on it to replace it with!
Last edited by Locust0311; 11-13-2019 at 01:04 PM.
Reason: Add picture
You shouldn't be insulted, as it was not my intent to insult you. I read that link 4 times on my Galaxy S8 and didn't see it. I see it now after clicking on Specifications and scrolling down to 0W-20. Thanks for pointing it out. If you had posted that screenshot in your initial post, you would have avoided this unpleasantness.
No worries. I posted the link from my iMac and on there the specs were listed clearly without needing to click or open anything so I thought that was sufficient. I added the screenshot above when I realized viewing from my mobile required the additional step of selecting which oil version to see the certification.
The good news is we now have a much lower cost major brand certified alternative available from several retailers. Just in time for me to change the oil on the 2 Rovers.
As many others, I had similar symptoms, smoke, barely able to run, lumpy, etc, and like Cee Jay has reported all was related to fuel injectors. It's happened to me three times, and each time the fear is that the engine was toast, but in each case the car was running like a champ by the next day, Get it properly diagnosed.
I had to replace the engine in my 2014 XK this summer a month after buying it when it started overheating. They found metal shavings embedded in the oil filter and heard a 'knock' deep in engine somewhere. I never got a final explanation on what actually happened to it but thankfully it was still under warranty and they were able to find a used engine off another 2014 with fewer miles on it to replace it with!
I would absolutely get a final explanation!
Overheating suggests cooling system so a new engine would not necessarily solve that problem. Last thing you want to do is replace another one.
Overheating suggests cooling system so a new engine would not necessarily solve that problem. Last thing you want to do is replace another one.
Honestly I don't think the dealer dug into the why, just that it was a goner. They did weld a crack in the downpipe so its possible that was causing the overheating and the metal shavings weren't what caused that specific problem and were just something else that was about to go. I also had to have the passenger side mirror replaced, several leaks fixed (including a cracked oil pan) and have some various fans and pulleys replaced. Thank goodness for warranties. I haven't had any issues in the months since the last of work was completed so fingers crossed that it all got taken care of.
OK So not much clearer picture at the moment. The Report showed a litany of error codes which showed nothing. Everything had an error.
Probably due to Restricted mode and needed to be cleared.
The Comments are :"Timing chain likely skipped a tooth". The Oil filter they replaced, the old one has sparkly metal flakes very small.
So It needs a further look.
I wish I had taken it elsewhere to begin with. I need to find someone here in Atlanta that can look at it and give me a definitive answer on it.
My new F-Type has been a fun distraction in the meantime! More to come!
Any time i have read on Problems on jaguar gas models from 10-on All had been using 0w20 oil
New to the XKR (2010) world, but after reading and searching forums about the "approved" spec oil, I am still not clear on what is OK for my car. Especially since JLR published new standard SCN JLRP00119 changing the specification from STJLR.51.5122 to STJLR.03.5006 and in the case of my 2010 XKR that would mean from 5w-20 (my owners manual) to 0W-20 as I understand it. I know I could ask the dealership for the definitive answer but as mentioned, in scouring the forums, I've read where dealers have serviced Jags with various different brands and specs so not sure what that would solve. Bottom line, I'll comply with the spec or brand that's correct and safe for the car but of the two brands most talked about, Castrol and Mobil 1, on their website, when you type in your car they both say "nothing currently offered" or "nothing currently offered in the U.S. I know Jags are special but I've never seen so much discussion and consternation over what oil to use in a car. At this point, since I don't have a clear history of what "brand" was used I'm leaning toward just following the new standard for brand and weight and see where that goes.
n the case of my 2010 XKR that would mean from 5w-20 (my owners manual) to 0W-20.
Perhaps someone can post a newer Jaguar release, but the latest I was given is 00119. It talks about the shift to STJLR.03.5006, HOWEVER.... It also clearly states that that (00119) Excludes North America.
With only those papers on the table, we in the US would/should still be using 5W-20. Brands are to your own discretion unless your car is under warranty.