PARKING BRAKE CALIBRATION
NOTE: After carrying out any work on the parking brake or rear brake calipers and discs, the
parking brake requires calibration.
1. Carry out a 30-second power reset on the EPB Module:
• Switch the ignition 'off'.
• Remove the EPB Fuse (check wiring diagram in GTR to confirm which fuse to remove).
• OR disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. After replacing the fuse or reconnecting the battery, start the engine.
3. Confirm that the message 'NOT CALIBRATED' or 'APPLY FOOT AND PARKING BRAKE' is
displayed on the instrument cluster message centre. This indicates that the parking brake is in
calibration mode.
4. Firmly apply and release the foot brake five times.
5. Lightly hold your foot on the brake pedal.
6. Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch.
7. Release the parking brake using the switch.
8. Release the foot brake.
9. Confirm that the brake warning lamp is not illuminated on the instrument pack and that the 'NOT
CALIBRATED' or ' APPLY FOOT AND PARKING BRAKE' messages are no longer displayed in the
message centre.
10. Apply and release

 

Has anybody done the Centrics front and rear on a 2010 and up XKR? Found these, and about ready to pull the trigger. Tired of the dust. I used Akebonos on my previous Jag (2004 XJR) and they were well worth it....

10 2010 Jaguar XKR Brake Pad Set - Brake - Centric, Delphi, Textar, Front, Rear - PartsGeek

 

I don't have an XKR but I just installed Centric Posi Quiets on the front of my 2010 XK and Akebonos on the rears. Very little brake dust, stops well, and no squealing. I got them from Rock Auto. Be careful where you purchase your pads as there have been instances where retailers are selling brake pads for our cars with the wrong application and don't fit. I believe Akebonos, although not available for the my fronts are even less dust.

 

Thanks, and good advice re checking carefully with suppliers. From what I can figure out on the internet and phone after a couple of hours, for 2010-and-up XKR owners, if you want a full set of ceramic pads, front and rear, you are looking at EBC Redstuff pads. Akebono sells rears only for these years. Centric sells semi-metallics for the 2010-and-up XKR, front and rear; their ceramic option is for the XK only.

Centric touts their semi-metallics as "low dust" as well, but I'm going to give the Redstuff a try. Not super cheap--$264 shipped for pads all around (Autopartswarehouse.com), but reviews on Amazon for several other applications seem to confirm that there is a significant dust advantage, and even a performance advantage, over OEM pads across the spectrum of automakers. We'll see.

 

Let us know how you make out with the Red Stuff ceramics. I haven't heard that many reviews on them and am curious how they are. Good luck.

 

Replaced the front Pads and rotors today on my 2010 XK. Took a while for me to get the first side done (drivers side).


The brake pad wear sensor is on the drivers side front, none on the passenger side. This sensor is rather embedded in to the top of the pad. I tried to pry it out with a screw driver and it crumbled. Now it needs to be replaced. Maybe these are always replaced with new during a brake job, I don't know. I cut the wires next to the plug in connector up at the frame and shorted them together then covered with electrical tape. I will probably just leave it that way. Never had these before.


I ordered the Centric PosiQuiets from RockAuto. The front pads came with a set of bushings for the sliding inner frame. They were too small and would in no way fit, so I reused the existing ones. They looked fine.


The Rotors wear in the middle and leave a raised lip on the outside and inside edge. This makes it difficult to remove the calipers with the old pads but I could get them off in the front. The rear calipers and pads would not come off. Not sure how this would be accomplished. I gave up since the pads in the rear were just short of 1/4" thick.


I did not used the cylinder compression tool. I ran a hose from the fitting on the caliper to a cup and loosened the fitting. I could then compress the cylinder with my hands. Not easy, but if I could do it, most people could.


Hope this helps someone. I took some pictures and may post some if desired. This pretty much covers the issues I had.

 

You would need the EPB brake service tool to retract the E-brake motor to then push the pistons in. Unfortunately the auto manufactures are trying to stop the DIY types from do this . The service tools run anywhere between $100-$300 . Looks like you will need to go to the dealer or a good independent shop.

 

It sounds to me like you tried to remove the entire assembly (done this one myself). If you just remove the two (15mm?) bolts you won't be able to remove the pads - the'll catch on the lip as you described. The only bolts you need to take off in order to remove the pads are the 7mm guide pins. Once you take those out, the pads and the outer piece come right off. The compression tool runs about $35 on Amazon (the #4 disc is the one you need)

 

Thanks, that makes sense. I'll look at that.

 

I ran into the same thing....Autozone gave me the wrong pads.... Bennet Auto Supply had the listed correctly and got them for me the same day. Oil filter for the 5.0L also uses what is listed for the 2009

 

My 2010 XK front pads are also listed as the 2009 set. Autozone had it wrong. Mine look just like yours