2010 XK brake pads
#21
PARKING BRAKE CALIBRATION
NOTE: After carrying out any work on the parking brake or rear brake calipers and discs, the
parking brake requires calibration.
1. Carry out a 30-second power reset on the EPB Module:
• Switch the ignition 'off'.
• Remove the EPB Fuse (check wiring diagram in GTR to confirm which fuse to remove).
• OR disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. After replacing the fuse or reconnecting the battery, start the engine.
3. Confirm that the message 'NOT CALIBRATED' or 'APPLY FOOT AND PARKING BRAKE' is
displayed on the instrument cluster message centre. This indicates that the parking brake is in
calibration mode.
4. Firmly apply and release the foot brake five times.
5. Lightly hold your foot on the brake pedal.
6. Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch.
7. Release the parking brake using the switch.
8. Release the foot brake.
9. Confirm that the brake warning lamp is not illuminated on the instrument pack and that the 'NOT
CALIBRATED' or ' APPLY FOOT AND PARKING BRAKE' messages are no longer displayed in the
message centre.
10. Apply and release
NOTE: After carrying out any work on the parking brake or rear brake calipers and discs, the
parking brake requires calibration.
1. Carry out a 30-second power reset on the EPB Module:
• Switch the ignition 'off'.
• Remove the EPB Fuse (check wiring diagram in GTR to confirm which fuse to remove).
• OR disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. After replacing the fuse or reconnecting the battery, start the engine.
3. Confirm that the message 'NOT CALIBRATED' or 'APPLY FOOT AND PARKING BRAKE' is
displayed on the instrument cluster message centre. This indicates that the parking brake is in
calibration mode.
4. Firmly apply and release the foot brake five times.
5. Lightly hold your foot on the brake pedal.
6. Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch.
7. Release the parking brake using the switch.
8. Release the foot brake.
9. Confirm that the brake warning lamp is not illuminated on the instrument pack and that the 'NOT
CALIBRATED' or ' APPLY FOOT AND PARKING BRAKE' messages are no longer displayed in the
message centre.
10. Apply and release
Last edited by Executive; 04-01-2014 at 04:15 PM.
#22
Has anybody done the Centrics front and rear on a 2010 and up XKR? Found these, and about ready to pull the trigger. Tired of the dust. I used Akebonos on my previous Jag (2004 XJR) and they were well worth it....
10 2010 Jaguar XKR Brake Pad Set - Brake - Centric, Delphi, Textar, Front, Rear - PartsGeek
10 2010 Jaguar XKR Brake Pad Set - Brake - Centric, Delphi, Textar, Front, Rear - PartsGeek
Last edited by Bruce M.; 04-06-2014 at 12:28 PM.
#23
Has anybody done the Centrics front and rear on a 2010 and up XKR? Found these, and about ready to pull the trigger. Tired of the dust. I used Akenbonos on my previous Jag (2004 XJR) and they were well worth it....
10 2010 Jaguar XKR Brake Pad Set - Brake - Centric, Delphi, Textar, Front, Rear - PartsGeek
10 2010 Jaguar XKR Brake Pad Set - Brake - Centric, Delphi, Textar, Front, Rear - PartsGeek
I don't have an XKR but I just installed Centric Posi Quiets on the front of my 2010 XK and Akebonos on the rears. Very little brake dust, stops well, and no squealing. I got them from Rock Auto. Be careful where you purchase your pads as there have been instances where retailers are selling brake pads for our cars with the wrong application and don't fit. I believe Akebonos, although not available for the my fronts are even less dust.
Last edited by bocatrip; 04-06-2014 at 02:51 PM.
#24
Thanks, and good advice re checking carefully with suppliers. From what I can figure out on the internet and phone after a couple of hours, for 2010-and-up XKR owners, if you want a full set of ceramic pads, front and rear, you are looking at EBC Redstuff pads. Akebono sells rears only for these years. Centric sells semi-metallics for the 2010-and-up XKR, front and rear; their ceramic option is for the XK only.
Centric touts their semi-metallics as "low dust" as well, but I'm going to give the Redstuff a try. Not super cheap--$264 shipped for pads all around (Autopartswarehouse.com), but reviews on Amazon for several other applications seem to confirm that there is a significant dust advantage, and even a performance advantage, over OEM pads across the spectrum of automakers. We'll see.
Centric touts their semi-metallics as "low dust" as well, but I'm going to give the Redstuff a try. Not super cheap--$264 shipped for pads all around (Autopartswarehouse.com), but reviews on Amazon for several other applications seem to confirm that there is a significant dust advantage, and even a performance advantage, over OEM pads across the spectrum of automakers. We'll see.
#25
#26
Replaced the front Pads and rotors today on my 2010 XK. Took a while for me to get the first side done (drivers side).
The brake pad wear sensor is on the drivers side front, none on the passenger side. This sensor is rather embedded in to the top of the pad. I tried to pry it out with a screw driver and it crumbled. Now it needs to be replaced. Maybe these are always replaced with new during a brake job, I don't know. I cut the wires next to the plug in connector up at the frame and shorted them together then covered with electrical tape. I will probably just leave it that way. Never had these before.
I ordered the Centric PosiQuiets from RockAuto. The front pads came with a set of bushings for the sliding inner frame. They were too small and would in no way fit, so I reused the existing ones. They looked fine.
The Rotors wear in the middle and leave a raised lip on the outside and inside edge. This makes it difficult to remove the calipers with the old pads but I could get them off in the front. The rear calipers and pads would not come off. Not sure how this would be accomplished. I gave up since the pads in the rear were just short of 1/4" thick.
I did not used the cylinder compression tool. I ran a hose from the fitting on the caliper to a cup and loosened the fitting. I could then compress the cylinder with my hands. Not easy, but if I could do it, most people could.
Hope this helps someone. I took some pictures and may post some if desired. This pretty much covers the issues I had.
The brake pad wear sensor is on the drivers side front, none on the passenger side. This sensor is rather embedded in to the top of the pad. I tried to pry it out with a screw driver and it crumbled. Now it needs to be replaced. Maybe these are always replaced with new during a brake job, I don't know. I cut the wires next to the plug in connector up at the frame and shorted them together then covered with electrical tape. I will probably just leave it that way. Never had these before.
I ordered the Centric PosiQuiets from RockAuto. The front pads came with a set of bushings for the sliding inner frame. They were too small and would in no way fit, so I reused the existing ones. They looked fine.
The Rotors wear in the middle and leave a raised lip on the outside and inside edge. This makes it difficult to remove the calipers with the old pads but I could get them off in the front. The rear calipers and pads would not come off. Not sure how this would be accomplished. I gave up since the pads in the rear were just short of 1/4" thick.
I did not used the cylinder compression tool. I ran a hose from the fitting on the caliper to a cup and loosened the fitting. I could then compress the cylinder with my hands. Not easy, but if I could do it, most people could.
Hope this helps someone. I took some pictures and may post some if desired. This pretty much covers the issues I had.
#27
Replaced the front Pads and rotors today on my 2010 XK. Took a while for me to get the first side done (drivers side).
The brake pad wear sensor is on the drivers side front, none on the passenger side. This sensor is rather embedded in to the top of the pad. I tried to pry it out with a screw driver and it crumbled. Now it needs to be replaced. Maybe these are always replaced with new during a brake job, I don't know. I cut the wires next to the plug in connector up at the frame and shorted them together then covered with electrical tape. I will probably just leave it that way. Never had these before.
I ordered the Centric PosiQuiets from RockAuto. The front pads came with a set of bushings for the sliding inner frame. They were too small and would in no way fit, so I reused the existing ones. They looked fine.
The Rotors wear in the middle and leave a raised lip on the outside and inside edge. This makes it difficult to remove the calipers with the old pads but I could get them off in the front. The rear calipers and pads would not come off. Not sure how this would be accomplished. I gave up since the pads in the rear were just short of 1/4" thick.
I did not used the cylinder compression tool. I ran a hose from the fitting on the caliper to a cup and loosened the fitting. I could then compress the cylinder with my hands. Not easy, but if I could do it, most people could.
Hope this helps someone. I took some pictures and may post some if desired. This pretty much covers the issues I had.
The brake pad wear sensor is on the drivers side front, none on the passenger side. This sensor is rather embedded in to the top of the pad. I tried to pry it out with a screw driver and it crumbled. Now it needs to be replaced. Maybe these are always replaced with new during a brake job, I don't know. I cut the wires next to the plug in connector up at the frame and shorted them together then covered with electrical tape. I will probably just leave it that way. Never had these before.
I ordered the Centric PosiQuiets from RockAuto. The front pads came with a set of bushings for the sliding inner frame. They were too small and would in no way fit, so I reused the existing ones. They looked fine.
The Rotors wear in the middle and leave a raised lip on the outside and inside edge. This makes it difficult to remove the calipers with the old pads but I could get them off in the front. The rear calipers and pads would not come off. Not sure how this would be accomplished. I gave up since the pads in the rear were just short of 1/4" thick.
I did not used the cylinder compression tool. I ran a hose from the fitting on the caliper to a cup and loosened the fitting. I could then compress the cylinder with my hands. Not easy, but if I could do it, most people could.
Hope this helps someone. I took some pictures and may post some if desired. This pretty much covers the issues I had.
#28
Replaced the front Pads and rotors today on my 2010 XK. Took a while for me to get the first side done (drivers side).
The brake pad wear sensor is on the drivers side front, none on the passenger side. This sensor is rather embedded in to the top of the pad. I tried to pry it out with a screw driver and it crumbled. Now it needs to be replaced. Maybe these are always replaced with new during a brake job, I don't know. I cut the wires next to the plug in connector up at the frame and shorted them together then covered with electrical tape. I will probably just leave it that way. Never had these before.
I ordered the Centric PosiQuiets from RockAuto. The front pads came with a set of bushings for the sliding inner frame. They were too small and would in no way fit, so I reused the existing ones. They looked fine.
The Rotors wear in the middle and leave a raised lip on the outside and inside edge. This makes it difficult to remove the calipers with the old pads but I could get them off in the front. The rear calipers and pads would not come off. Not sure how this would be accomplished. I gave up since the pads in the rear were just short of 1/4" thick.
I did not used the cylinder compression tool. I ran a hose from the fitting on the caliper to a cup and loosened the fitting. I could then compress the cylinder with my hands. Not easy, but if I could do it, most people could.
Hope this helps someone. I took some pictures and may post some if desired. This pretty much covers the issues I had.
The brake pad wear sensor is on the drivers side front, none on the passenger side. This sensor is rather embedded in to the top of the pad. I tried to pry it out with a screw driver and it crumbled. Now it needs to be replaced. Maybe these are always replaced with new during a brake job, I don't know. I cut the wires next to the plug in connector up at the frame and shorted them together then covered with electrical tape. I will probably just leave it that way. Never had these before.
I ordered the Centric PosiQuiets from RockAuto. The front pads came with a set of bushings for the sliding inner frame. They were too small and would in no way fit, so I reused the existing ones. They looked fine.
The Rotors wear in the middle and leave a raised lip on the outside and inside edge. This makes it difficult to remove the calipers with the old pads but I could get them off in the front. The rear calipers and pads would not come off. Not sure how this would be accomplished. I gave up since the pads in the rear were just short of 1/4" thick.
I did not used the cylinder compression tool. I ran a hose from the fitting on the caliper to a cup and loosened the fitting. I could then compress the cylinder with my hands. Not easy, but if I could do it, most people could.
Hope this helps someone. I took some pictures and may post some if desired. This pretty much covers the issues I had.
It sounds to me like you tried to remove the entire assembly (done this one myself). If you just remove the two (15mm?) bolts you won't be able to remove the pads - the'll catch on the lip as you described. The only bolts you need to take off in order to remove the pads are the 7mm guide pins. Once you take those out, the pads and the outer piece come right off. The compression tool runs about $35 on Amazon (the #4 disc is the one you need)
Last edited by Gray XK; 04-07-2014 at 09:35 AM.
#29
It sounds to me like you tried to remove the entire assembly (done this one myself). If you just remove the two (15mm?) bolts you won't be able to remove the pads - the'll catch on the lip as you described. The only bolts you need to take off in order to remove the pads are the 7mm guide pins. Once you take those out, the pads and the outer piece come right off. The compression tool runs about $35 on Amazon (the #4 disc is the one you need)Amazon.com: Astro Pneumatic 78618 Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Set - 18 Piece: Automotive
Thanks, that makes sense. I'll look at that.
#30
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