Hi Neville,

Glad to see it's all done!

Your cut bolts were about 2 inches longer than mine which would explain it being awkward to get the s/c back on at the angle it needs, it was a tight fit with mine and to be honest these could be cut even shorter as you only need enough to be able to grip and unscrew them by finger once the s/c has been re-positioned.

And these engines aren't whisper quiet. I've got this engine in both the Jag and the range rover and they both sound the same when you listen up close... like someone has fitted an old style singer sowing machine somewhere in the engine. It's just the injectors tick-tapping away.
And on mine the exhaust also sounds quite coarse, almost like it's leaking or something, but again that's just the sound of these cars. Don't worry about it, just enjoy!

It was interesting to see the state of your S/C innards in the photos. Not quite as bad as mine was, but then mine's done 80k'ish so not too surprising.

Next time you do it, it'll only take you a couple of hours.

Cheers, Piersman.

 

NEXT TIME???? I hope there won't be a next time. I agree that the injectors are noisy, tapping away, and the exhaust is supposed to be noisy too but I think there is something else, maybe the water pump. Ill have a squirt around with WD40 to see if it makes any difference. It could be just a bearing on the belt tensioner.
I took her for a spin along the motorway this morning just to check I had put everything back together ok and there were no warning messages or leaks thank goodness. After the third checkover before starting I found a hose clamp I had overlooked. Can't check over work too often.
Thank you again Piersman for your help and support. Top man.

 

I went to a Jag show yesterday and listened to a few 5 litre s/c XKs. None of them had silky smooth quiet engines, all went clackerty clack from the injectors or VVT gear as someone suggested, and none had the dreaded torsion coupler rattle either!

 

Supercharger Torsion Isolator - Expensive bit of work for a poorly designed part.

 

There was a company on here that sold solid torsion isolators but I forgot who they were. They also sold reman superchargers.

 

Is this what you are referring to Johncy?
Jaguar Land Rover Range 4.2 4.0 L M112 Supercharger Bearings Nose Rebuild Kit | eBay

 

No, it was for the AJ133 5.0L motor. I was researching on here when my torsion isolator was making noise. They had replacement superchargers for the 5.0 selling with the redesigned torsion isolator they offered.

 

This is the one I bought and fitted.
Oil Filled Nylon Isolator Coupler Jaguar Range Rover 5.0 Only Supercharger
Rattle gone.

 

Sorry Johncy, I should have checked which car you have. There is a guy on the UK forum who has replaced the coupler on his 5L recently. He said he got the replacement from the US. This is the same company, Quality Superchargers, only this one is for the 5L.
Oil Filled Nylon Isolator Coupler Jaguar Range Rover 5.0 Only Supercharger | eBay

Neville types faster.

 

What, this guy? lol

 

Sorry Neville, I couldn't find the thread to get your name in a hurry yesterday.

 

Since fitting the new torsion coupler, I have had a mysterious coolant leak. At first the level dropped quite a bit so I carried out a pressure test on the cooling system which held 20psi for half an hour when th engine was cold. Odd. It did look like there was evidence of coolant under the s/c snout and around the throttle body plumbing but it was impossible to detect exactly where the leak was, as the fan would spray the coolant liberally around just to confuse matters.
It still leaked, although not so much after the pressure test, so it only leaked when it was hot. After a run this morning, I had the bonnet up and the plastic T shaped air pipe off and had a good look with a torch and mirror and spotted moisture UNDER the metal pipe where the radiator hose joins it (left side viewed from the front of the car). Thats the metal pipe I had to remove. The rad pipe is only secured by one spring loaded clip which I slid down the pipe to remove the pipe, cleaned the joint and added a little bit of gasket cement and put it all carefully back together again.
Hopefully, that will have cured the leak. I'll put the coolant back later when the gasket cement has had time to dry properly. (Coolant easily removed by syphoning it out into a bucket).
I noticed that Piersman had some leaks too. Those plastic fittings get brittle with age and heat.

 

Had another good look for the leak and noticed that the water pump pulley looked wobbly whilst spinning so changed the water pump. The leak turned out to be the pump leaking.
Engine is much quieter now and all is well under the bonnet. Hoorah!

 

Hi Neville,


That's a bit spooky, my 5.0 s/c range rover, (same engine , same age as my XKR), shat it's water pump this weekend whilst I was travelling down the M4 to Slough.


I had lost a little coolant over the last few weeks but as I'm using the car so little these days I didn't worry about it, thought I'd just keep an eye on it. There had been a little grumbling noise form the RR's engine when I topped it up just before leaving on Saturday, but nothing too alarming.


Anyways, got 20 miles down the road and started hearing squealing fanbelt noise, which came and went for maybe another 5 miles. Thankfully I got to my destination before any alarms were ringing, other than mine when the steam started spewing out from under the bonnet.


AA man out, collapsed water pump, tow truck home.


Spent sunday morning stripping out the old pump. Holly ****, there was 1 ball bearing left in the bearing assembly, all the others had dropped out, I found 5 of them sitting under the pump once I had it removed.


I took apart the old pump, the impellers were all there, but the impeller disc was cracked right across the middle, and the pump shaft (phnaar) was just rattling around in the body of the pump as there was no bearings left to hold it in place.


New bits are due today, I'll refit everything this week.


Note to owners of these engines.... If you've lost any coolant and have the slightest noise, get that pump replaced - QUICK!


If I'd been going any further, or had the music turned up loud, I probably wouldn't have known any better until the car overheated and flashed me a message, which might be a bit late whilst on the M4 at 90+.

 

Here's mine!!!!

https://youtu.be/X-S57YiFFSw

I also changed the black plastic connector at the rear of the pump and the rubber seal plus the small plastic pipe that goes into the front of the pump and leads to the expansion tank. I was given an upgrade main rubber pipe that connects onto the metal top pipe which has a saddle into which the small plastic pipe connects. To remove this small pipe from the pump is removed like a domestic push fit fitting.
Glad I didn't break down like you Piersman. Shame.

 

Yep, I've order new pump, new rear plastic pipe/connector, new o-ring and new coolant pipe to thermostat on the principle everything might as well be changed whilst I'm there. I see you removed yours with the little pipe still attached, I managed to disengage that pipe before unbolting the pump (as you say like a plumbing fitting) and managed to do it without breaking it. Apparently these can become brittle so I was careful with it.

I could show a picture of my pump, but other than the casing and pulley it's pretty much just shrapnel now since I pressed out the old bearings to have a look.

 

When you offer up the new pump, make sure the black pipe locates at the rear ok. I removed the throttle body to get a clear view. Black pipe needs to be in correct position clockwise and covered in Vaseline to aid fitting.
Also, offer the pump, gaskets and bolts all in one go and get a few turns on the bolts before pressing the pump home or you will loose the gaskets and drop the bolts like I did!!!!

 

Hey Neville or Piersman, any chance of a quick video showing how to disconnect that small pipe fitting from the pump? I know someone on the XJ forum had an issue getting it to release and I'm sure it will come up again as more people tackle this themselves.

Thanks in advance.

 

Got the new pump fitted last night before it got dark and rainy, then decided to call it a day as I tried to remember the routing for the belt.


Took your advice Neville and moved the throttle body out of the way to help see what was going on, still a bit of a faff but seem to have got there eventually.


TSXFireblade, that little pipe is similar to a press fit plumbing connector... you need to make sure the little collar is pressed down against the pump body, and then pull the pipe out. If you don't press the collar down it just gets tighter as you try to pull the pipe, until it snaps!

 

As Piersman says, push pipe in as far as you can including the little black collar it sits in, then hold the collar pressed into the pump and gently pull out the pipe. The collar works like a one way gripper until held in.
Now just pull the pipe, carefully!!!