XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

2011 XKR owned for 17 days . . and it is dead - RESOLVED

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  #21  
Old 02-15-2018 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Cee Jay
Edd China had to replace the entire TB on the 4.0 XK8 that Wheeler Dealers fixed for their giveaway car.
I remember Mike had to have the throttle body for the Maserati 3200 GT rebuilt. I've seen the XK8 episode, but don't specifically recall him changing the TB. I'll have to pull up that episode again.
 
  #22  
Old 02-15-2018 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JaguarJeffrey
I remember Mike had to have the throttle body for the Maserati 3200 GT rebuilt. I've seen the XK8 episode, but don't specifically recall him changing the TB. I'll have to pull up that episode again.
They got it cheap because "Limp-Home Mode". That was the fix.
 
  #23  
Old 02-16-2018 | 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Ngarara
The only difference between single or double locking is that double locking engages the door deadlocks and the volumetric sensors.
Unless you have an XK without the deadlocks or volumetric seonsors e.g. US cars, in which case, who knows what a second push does.

I had a play with my Japanese spec '10 XKR last night which doesn't have deadlocks and the car locks on the 1st push and the lights flash on the 2nd push. If I push it a 3rd time I get a beep from the horn, 4th push = flash, 5th push = beep, 6th push = flash, 7th push = beep etc, etc, etc.
 
  #24  
Old 02-16-2018 | 03:32 PM
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If I push MY lock button three times, the top goes up, then the windows.
Thanks, Steve!
 
  #25  
Old 02-16-2018 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
Just check the voltage at the battery terminals and see if it is 12.6 V. Then based on your findings make your next move.
Respectfully "jagtoes" dangerous advice for a new owner.

Here's my spin... You just spent thousands and thousands and thousands of dollars on a new/used vehicle that you are not at all familiar with. Turns out you just purchased a very, very voltage sensitive ride. What does a new battery cost in comparison... nothing. He is already experiencing the weird and strange why not just replace and rule the battery voltage/amperage/charge out of the equation completely?

When I purchased my '07 XKR the battery went dead 3rd day of ownership. Went to local battery depo and battery tested fine. Next couple days the weird and strange then dead again. Replaced battery everything good to go then two, three weeks later weird and strange is back. Strapped a battery tender to the side of the battery and use it semi-religiously and no issues since going on three years now. I can go unplugged for about a month or so before the prince of darkness reappears.

It's not that testing your battery is bad advice because it's not, its very good advice in most cases. It's just with these/our cars and no battery history why not just replace and enjoy your ride?
 
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  #26  
Old 02-16-2018 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 1 of 19
Respectfully "jagtoes" dangerous advice for a new owner.

Here's my spin... You just spent thousands and thousands and thousands of dollars on a new/used vehicle that you are not at all familiar with. Turns out you just purchased a very, very voltage sensitive ride. What does a new battery cost in comparison... nothing. He is already experiencing the weird and strange why not just replace and rule the battery voltage/amperage/charge out of the equation completely?

When I purchased my '07 XKR the battery went dead 3rd day of ownership. Went to local battery depo and battery tested fine. Next couple days the weird and strange then dead again. Replaced battery everything good to go then two, three weeks later weird and strange is back. Strapped a battery tender to the side of the battery and use it semi-religiously and no issues since going on three years now. I can go unplugged for about a month or so before the prince of darkness reappears.

It's not that testing your battery is bad advice because it's not, its very good advice in most cases. It's just with these/our cars and no battery history why not just replace and enjoy your ride?
Just looking at the obvious here and not knowing the OP's DIY skills suggesting a quick look at the voltage will make the new battery the easy next step. Gives him an idea of having to open his wallet for another $150-$200. Now if he has 12.6 V at the battery then it would be apparent he has another issue to contend with. I wonder if anyone has established what the lower threshold of the battery voltage needs to be in order for the gremlins to start. Is it 12v or 11.5 or ???
 
  #27  
Old 02-17-2018 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 1 of 19
It's just with these/our cars and no battery history why not just replace and enjoy your ride?
Without knowing the cars history you may or may not need a battery. Heck, Harbor Freight has cheapy cheap voltage meters on sale for free on occasion. Or grab a power port plug in style to at least get an indication of what's going on before condemning the battery.

I'd much rather be pissed off knowing I have a weak battery versus finding out something else is wrong after replacing a perfectly OK battery.
 
  #28  
Old 02-17-2018 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranchero50
Without knowing the cars history you may or may not need a battery. Heck, Harbor Freight has cheapy cheap voltage meters on sale for free on occasion. Or grab a power port plug in style to at least get an indication of what's going on before condemning the battery.

I'd much rather be pissed off knowing I have a weak battery versus finding out something else is wrong after replacing a perfectly OK battery.
To each his own.
Bet it's the battery when it's all said and done.
 
  #29  
Old 02-22-2018 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 1 of 19
Bet it's the battery when it's all said and done.
I wish it were that simple. Replaced the battery first thing - no love. Error codes returned, indicating a problem with the throttle body. Swapped in a new throttle body - less love. Error codes returned. After almost a week of troubleshooting, the mechanic at the Jaguar dealer found that it was corrosion in a fuse box. The part is only available in the UK, and I was told that it can take up to two weeks for it to arrive in Arizona. ::sigh::
 
  #30  
Old 02-22-2018 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JaguarJeffrey
I wish it were that simple. Replaced the battery first thing - no love. Error codes returned, indicating a problem with the throttle body. Swapped in a new throttle body - less love. Error codes returned. After almost a week of troubleshooting, the mechanic at the Jaguar dealer found that it was corrosion in a fuse box. The part is only available in the UK, and I was told that it can take up to two weeks for it to arrive in Arizona. ::sigh::
I wish you well. On a positive note, I’ve had UK only parts arrive at a dealer surprisingly fast. So hope that’s your case.

Best!
 
  #31  
Old 02-22-2018 | 08:02 PM
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Where did the car come from? I am surprised at corrosion in the fuse box in a car from Southern AZ.
 
  #32  
Old 02-22-2018 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by davchr
Where did the car come from? I am surprised at corrosion in the fuse box in a car from Southern AZ.
Yea I'm scratching my head too. I guess I would have to see it and understand how bad it is. Also why can't it be removed and repaired. Was this a swamp car or maybe the tech doesn't know what's wrong and pointing at something just to put it off. You would think there would be a way to jumper out the bad area unless it is a module with an IC circuit that is bad. Trust but verify
 
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  #33  
Old 02-22-2018 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by davchr
Where did the car come from? I am surprised at corrosion in the fuse box in a car from Southern AZ.
Originally, it was purchased in North Chesterfield, VA. After a few years, it went on a tour of the greater southwest, through Fort Worth, TX, Reno, NV, and finally Phoenix, AZ. It is possible that before I purchased it, someone used a power washer on the engine and managed to get water into the fuse box. It hadn't rained here from the day I bought the car until I had it towed back to the dealer, so it didn't happen under my watch.

I can't complain about the engine cleaning, though. You could eat off this thing. Their technique, however, may need some refinement.
 

Last edited by JaguarJeffrey; 02-22-2018 at 08:26 PM.
  #34  
Old 03-21-2018 | 10:33 AM
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Twenty three days after the problem first appeared, the XKR came home, good as new. It was the fuse box showing some corrosion, and it was replaced with a new part. Thank goodness I bought the extended service warranty. This one issue just covered two years of coverage.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread and offered advice and encouragement.
 
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  #35  
Old 03-21-2018 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Snide72
Mandrake ... you recommended a Foxwell NT510 scan tool ... but when I looked up that exact item on Amazon, there were several different versions that seemed to be 'brand specific' ... and ... none said they were for Jaguar! Is yours specific for Jaguar or are the ads just blowing smoke? Thanks.
Just buy the cheapest NT510 you can get. I found them cheaper directly at Foxwell for $149 shipped.

Foxwell NT510 Scanner with Free Car Brand Software +OBD

The reason I say buy it where you can get it at the best price is that it doesn't matter the "brand" when you buy it.

The way it works is when you receive it the unit is "unloaded" and once received you plug the included 4gb SD card into your laptop and log in to Foxwell and then chose what brand manufacturer you want. This is part of the difference between their PRO version. The standard version allows you to load only 1 manufacturer custom software at once and with the PRO version you can load up to 4 different manufacturers.

Anyway, once you register and input your serial number and password you chose "Land Rover" and download the files to the SD card. Once you insert the SD card into the Reader you will now have the choice of Canbus (that is built in to the system) but you then have a "Jaguar" logo to chose. This gets you into basically an SDD level system built into an easy to use handheld scanner. So far I haven't found anything it will not do on my 2010 XKR. The options for it are very extensive and I haven't gone thru all the available options.

Bottom line seems to be you get an SDD level system in a $149 Handheld scanner.

I have been programming/modifying automotive systems for over 25 years ...and FWIW this is impressive to me, especially for the price point.

Cheers,

Dave
 
  #36  
Old 03-21-2018 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 10XKR
................
Foxwell NT510 Scanner with Free Car Brand Software +OBD

Bottom line seems to be you get an SDD level system in a $149 Handheld scanner.

I have been programming/modifying automotive systems for over 25 years ...and FWIW this is impressive to me, especially for the price point.

Cheers,

Dave
So what you're saying here.... is that this Foxwell can modify settings?
Turn DRLs on and off?
Reset Battery System?
Possibly reset seat modules?
Turn Rear Camera on/off?
That would really be a benefit, and cheap.
 
  #37  
Old 03-21-2018 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Cee Jay
So what you're saying here.... is that this Foxwell can modify settings?
Turn DRLs on and off?
Reset Battery System?
Possibly reset seat modules?
Turn Rear Camera on/off?
That would really be a benefit, and cheap.
Can't tell much from their website, they list compatibility with 2006.5-2010 MYs only for the x150, they also indicate that it is primarily an OBD live data display/DTC reader/reset device. For vehicle features you have to be able to edit the CCF file. SDD is all inclusive, there is nothing it can't service on these cars. But if the Foxwell can do the same thing and with out any possible module software corruption, there will be a LOT of members here who would be interested...
 
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  #38  
Old 03-21-2018 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jahummer
But if the Foxwell can do the same thing and with out any possible module software corruption, there will be a LOT of members here who would be interested...
Unfortunately it cannot. You can reset SRS, release the EPB for brakes, read and clear codes, but it cannot add or edit features and can't flash anything.

It's an OK handheld inline with the iCarsoft handhelds. They have a reputation for terrible customer support but if you have a basic understanding of code readers, you can maneuver just fine with it. That said, I'm with you jahummer. There is no substitute for the real deal.
 
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  #39  
Old 03-21-2018 | 02:15 PM
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I purchased an inexpensive (under USD $20) OBD II Bluetooth reader a year or so ago and paired that with the Torque Pro application for Android. It not only reads and explains the fault codes, but allows you to reset the codes and monitor real-time information, like accelerator position, throttle percentage, boost level, coolant levels, etc. It will also track your 0-60 mph times, 1/4 mile times, and provide a horsepower reading. Part of the process is to create a profile of the vehicle so that the application can account for weight, fuel capacity and level, etc. There is a decent user base that builds plug-ins for the Torque application, too, so the functionality is ever expanding.

For less than USD $10, I highly recommend it.
 
  #40  
Old 03-21-2018 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by JaguarJeffrey
Twenty three days after the problem first appeared, the XKR came home, good as new. It was the fuse box showing some corrosion, and it was replaced with a new part. .....
Good to have a happy ending.

I've added 'RESOLVED' to your thread title.

Graham
 
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