2012 XKR: Cold Start Idle "Ticking"
#62
#63
G'day Mark.
Sorry for the late reply, I've been away on hol's.
Yes, I still have the XKR, The rattle on start up has all but disappeared, but as many forum members have written, oil is the key, more so the correct oil.
I've been doing my own oil / filter changes, so, so simple on this car. You don't even need to get underneath the engine, invest in a good 9 ltr vacuum/ oil extractor, then suck out the warm engine oil by attaching the vacuum hose to the pipe that's just inside under the oil filler cap.
idle on these S/C engines is notoriously lumpy, having said that, you could have a slight leak on a injector. If you have access to an OBDII scanner ( I bought the Jaguar isoft 930) worth every cent, You can check your long term fuel trims to see if one bank is over or under fueling. Mine is on Bank 2, hence why I'm waiting on 8 new injectors to arrive from Bosch, I've also bought 4 genuine coil packs for Bank 2, I'll then replace coil packs and injectors whilst I'm in there.
if you get the chance, read up on Cambo's comments on the forum, he fixed me up with a new " straight through" centre exhaust same as the XKR-S, I also have the XKR-S tune.
I also recommend " Red Stuff brake pads, they perform just as good as OEM but without the constant brake dust on the wheels.
Ive also replaced wheel bearings all round and changed the transmission oil ( Only use Lifeguard 6). It's not worth the hassle you could get in the future by saving a few bucks on non recommended transmission oil.
My car now has 90,000 km on it but still looks showroom inside and out. I've also been running Pace Alventi tyres, they're cheap Chinese, but impressive grip levels. They're high speed rated, but we in Oz can only do 60mph (110km). So the tyres are more than capable for our dizzy speeds.
Sorry for the late reply, I've been away on hol's.
Yes, I still have the XKR, The rattle on start up has all but disappeared, but as many forum members have written, oil is the key, more so the correct oil.
I've been doing my own oil / filter changes, so, so simple on this car. You don't even need to get underneath the engine, invest in a good 9 ltr vacuum/ oil extractor, then suck out the warm engine oil by attaching the vacuum hose to the pipe that's just inside under the oil filler cap.
idle on these S/C engines is notoriously lumpy, having said that, you could have a slight leak on a injector. If you have access to an OBDII scanner ( I bought the Jaguar isoft 930) worth every cent, You can check your long term fuel trims to see if one bank is over or under fueling. Mine is on Bank 2, hence why I'm waiting on 8 new injectors to arrive from Bosch, I've also bought 4 genuine coil packs for Bank 2, I'll then replace coil packs and injectors whilst I'm in there.
if you get the chance, read up on Cambo's comments on the forum, he fixed me up with a new " straight through" centre exhaust same as the XKR-S, I also have the XKR-S tune.
I also recommend " Red Stuff brake pads, they perform just as good as OEM but without the constant brake dust on the wheels.
Ive also replaced wheel bearings all round and changed the transmission oil ( Only use Lifeguard 6). It's not worth the hassle you could get in the future by saving a few bucks on non recommended transmission oil.
My car now has 90,000 km on it but still looks showroom inside and out. I've also been running Pace Alventi tyres, they're cheap Chinese, but impressive grip levels. They're high speed rated, but we in Oz can only do 60mph (110km). So the tyres are more than capable for our dizzy speeds.
The following users liked this post:
Queen and Country (09-08-2019)
#64
Thanks XKate,
Most of the issues with mine have been fixed, expect the residual ticking at idle, and the occasional misfire also at idle. The oil change was done at the Jaguar dealer, so surely they would use the correct oil spec? Yes, I know what you are thinking...I will ask.
Thanks for all of the other tips. Where do you get your EBC pads from?
Kind Regards,
Mark.
Most of the issues with mine have been fixed, expect the residual ticking at idle, and the occasional misfire also at idle. The oil change was done at the Jaguar dealer, so surely they would use the correct oil spec? Yes, I know what you are thinking...I will ask.
Thanks for all of the other tips. Where do you get your EBC pads from?
Kind Regards,
Mark.
#65
We have the same mileage.
Recently, after the car sat for 4 months without being started, I discovered that keeping injectors clean is also crucial in this car. There was a slight miss. Mind you, no rattle at start up.
Many thanks for confirming!
#66
Hello All! I think this was my original post years ago. In fact I have not been on the boards in a long long time - years - in fact I just saw someone messaged me back in 2017 asking me to go look at an XK with him (woops!). I am happy to report my 12 XKR is at about 80,600 miles as of today. Unfortunately at about 75k miles my car developed another tick. However this one is different then the initial high pitched tick at startup that required a new timing chain, timing chain tensioners, and all 4 VVT's replaced. This one goes as follows and tonight I will post 2 videos already on you tube by different people - 1 an XJ owner who just sold the car ie got rid of it, another an XF owner that when the dealership started to inspect the engine regarding the noise - they noticed low oil pressures and he got a brand new engine off manufacturer warranty.
Here it goes for you pondering enjoyment:
You start the car and it starts fine and clean - good sound sits at higer revs then comes down normally. Fine. Back up the car sounds good and start driving that fine. about 15 second later you come to a stop sign. When slowing down you hear a lower pitched knock. This year hear ever stop light or stop sign for about 5-6 minutes and then.... It goes completely away. The car drives well and the knock you can not hear under load - it sounds like it goes away when you get it gas. Now you can hear the lower pitched knock inside the cabin clear as day compared to that high pitched tick.
After some research I found out this is a really bad problem in the LR4's V8 engine earlier this decade. Very similar sound and they say "its normal".
Someone on the landroverforums a guy named JaguarDocs said it was the "High Pressure Fuel System Cam Follower" which is "very noisy".
Well its not normal it wasn't there for 75k miles! It pisses me right off hahaha.
Anyone else heard of this part or have experienced a fix at the dealership or an indie for a noisy "Cam Follower"
I will post a link to the youtube sources tonight as my job prevents me from accessing youtube to get the link while im here.
Loth
Here it goes for you pondering enjoyment:
You start the car and it starts fine and clean - good sound sits at higer revs then comes down normally. Fine. Back up the car sounds good and start driving that fine. about 15 second later you come to a stop sign. When slowing down you hear a lower pitched knock. This year hear ever stop light or stop sign for about 5-6 minutes and then.... It goes completely away. The car drives well and the knock you can not hear under load - it sounds like it goes away when you get it gas. Now you can hear the lower pitched knock inside the cabin clear as day compared to that high pitched tick.
After some research I found out this is a really bad problem in the LR4's V8 engine earlier this decade. Very similar sound and they say "its normal".
Someone on the landroverforums a guy named JaguarDocs said it was the "High Pressure Fuel System Cam Follower" which is "very noisy".
Well its not normal it wasn't there for 75k miles! It pisses me right off hahaha.
Anyone else heard of this part or have experienced a fix at the dealership or an indie for a noisy "Cam Follower"
I will post a link to the youtube sources tonight as my job prevents me from accessing youtube to get the link while im here.
Loth
#67
Actually I was just reading my initial post at the beginning and someone commented he was told it was normal as its the high pressure fuel pump warming up. Im pretty sure that is it as it certainly is not my initial high pitched tick requiring VVT replacement and the car runs absolutely fine. I use BG44k on the car every now and then - 0w20 oil per jag recommendations. Maybe its just old? lol. Anyone ever have their HPFS parts replaced cause of this noise? Im thinking the cost is probably significant and just to remove a sound that goes away in 5 minutes anyway may be excessive......
The following users liked this post:
George05 (09-09-2019)
#68
#69
Loth good to hear from you. I have often wondered what happened to that guy that loved XKRs so much that he bought 2 of them concurrently, when it was supercool to own just the one.
That's almost historic. And kept them after having VVT issues with both of them.
That's almost historic. And kept them after having VVT issues with both of them.
The following users liked this post:
George05 (09-10-2019)
#70
Sounds like your on-to it Mark. I bought my Red Stuff pads from EBay Uk and paid nominal shipping fee. My pads have been in for 15,000 km and I can say, a purchase I would recommend. I also have a spare set at home and rotors/ wheel disks ready for the next time around. Can't beet being proactive.
Enjoy.
Enjoy.
#71
Here is a video of mine, I know you have another engine right there to compare with, but just trying to help since your original video saved my butt. (btw, my first video ever, excuse the pic quality- audio should be superb, recorded on very good mic on phone)
Completely cold start (not started in 4 days)
50k miles on the engine
In garage, left the sound of the hood closing at the end as a volume reference.
Phone was on tripod, so any shake you see is me getting in the car, no vibration from the engine.
Note engine cover off so as not to muffle any sounds.
Completely cold start (not started in 4 days)
50k miles on the engine
In garage, left the sound of the hood closing at the end as a volume reference.
Phone was on tripod, so any shake you see is me getting in the car, no vibration from the engine.
Note engine cover off so as not to muffle any sounds.
The following users liked this post:
u102768 (09-09-2019)
#72
#73
#74
#75
Is it the vacuum?
The important part is that it sounds normal before oil pressure is at max and then idles smooth.
Come to think of it, if both ours sound the same, it must mean something.
Last edited by Queen and Country; 09-09-2019 at 08:33 PM.
#76
The following users liked this post:
guy (09-11-2019)
#77
As mentioned on the other thread, my mechanic thinks that mine is coming from one of the high pressure fuel pumps on the side of the engine. It is pretty much the only sound that reaches the cabin at low speed and makes the car sound like a diesel and I don't remember it doing it when I first bought it
#78
#79
Here is what I did.
Changed oil after driving 1000 miles- 3 times.
Oil is an excellent cleaner on its own-it is one of its purposes.
Fortunately our Castrol jag spec oil happens to be one of the best in this regard.
Used Lubegaurd engine flush each time. Its the only flush I trust. Its NOT really a flush, a varnish dissolver. These are the folks that make the legendary varnish removers and friction modifiers for transmissions.
Ran 9 bottles of Techron.
Its proven and already there in gasoline.
I did this part to address sludge in other parts that generally builds up. (think hydraulic tensioners, piston heads)
The only caution is that it thins oil- you want that, but be prepared to dump the oil as soon as you get to the point of over-thinning. So 500 miles first bottle, 300 miles second and 200 on the third.
All of the steps above can be used for general maintenance and cleanliness.
It will shock you how much more one gets out with Lubegaurd vs just simple oil change.
Using two tankfuls of Thecron before dumping the oil is also a must. Its just a very thin oil that floats stuff off metal, like sludge and carbon. Its non combustible so it can be sent through the combustion cycle. It just thins oil. So they play it safe and recommend only use one tankful per 3,000 miles. But if you know what you are doing, you can use many times that amount, i.e in every tank of gas and dump the oil as soon as you feel it thinning. You will hear it. OR just use the schedule above.
Changed oil after driving 1000 miles- 3 times.
Oil is an excellent cleaner on its own-it is one of its purposes.
Fortunately our Castrol jag spec oil happens to be one of the best in this regard.
Used Lubegaurd engine flush each time. Its the only flush I trust. Its NOT really a flush, a varnish dissolver. These are the folks that make the legendary varnish removers and friction modifiers for transmissions.
Ran 9 bottles of Techron.
Its proven and already there in gasoline.
I did this part to address sludge in other parts that generally builds up. (think hydraulic tensioners, piston heads)
The only caution is that it thins oil- you want that, but be prepared to dump the oil as soon as you get to the point of over-thinning. So 500 miles first bottle, 300 miles second and 200 on the third.
All of the steps above can be used for general maintenance and cleanliness.
It will shock you how much more one gets out with Lubegaurd vs just simple oil change.
Using two tankfuls of Thecron before dumping the oil is also a must. Its just a very thin oil that floats stuff off metal, like sludge and carbon. Its non combustible so it can be sent through the combustion cycle. It just thins oil. So they play it safe and recommend only use one tankful per 3,000 miles. But if you know what you are doing, you can use many times that amount, i.e in every tank of gas and dump the oil as soon as you feel it thinning. You will hear it. OR just use the schedule above.
#80