This car has been at the dealer for nearly a year, but is a CPO with relatively low miles and the price seems quite reasonable.

What do I need to look for when assessing potential issues?

What questions should I be asking?

I'm assuming it hasn't been driven much while on sale, so are there things that need to be replaced up front due to lack of use?

Would love any/all advice any of you can provide and would love to be able to join the club here as an owning and driving member. All I need is the car.

Thanks guys!

 

Don't look back,
just drive the car
Hands on the wheel
You're gonna go far

 

It would be helpful if ;posted more information about the vehicle in question. For instance, how many miles? Is it a coupe or convertible? If you can take a picture or pictures and post them that would also be helpful. Presuming you can do the above you are going to get more useful responses. As a matter of fact if the car is listed on a website, post the url. If not, then try to get the last 6 digits of the serial number and provide that information as well. In the meantime good hunting. Oh, what is the seller asking for the car?

 

Get a carfax
See how many owners
See if any previous accidents
Ask for ALL services done on the vehicle
If a CPO it should have had all the regular services performed
See what is left on the warranty and what may be covered/not
See if original tires or replacements were put on (19 or 20 in)
check car for any dings at all the right angles and lighting (see if they'll remove them if so)
Make sure all recalls were performed and none outstanding
Is this a supercharged with active exhaust? what does that mean?
How many price drops? Why on the lot a year? Asking too much, something else?

That's a start. Good luck. Others here with 2013s may have more relevant advice.

 

I second the dings. Remember that the body is aluminum and dings/dents are considerably harder to work out. Many body shops won't touch them. Other than that, we need more info on the car.

 

You can't rely on CarFax because not all accidents and service are reported to them. Just because the CarFax is clean, doesn't mean that the car is clean. Read the CarFax Terms and Conditions. They disclaim responsibility. CarFax is a good starting point in your due diligence.

Jaguar CPO is the most comfort you can get in a used XKR. Within a week after I bought my CPO 2013 XJ it developed a slow leak in the right rear tire. My tire shop showed me where that wheel had a weld repair. The dealer agreed that it was unsafe and replaced it with a new wheel. That's integrity.

Only you can do your due diligence. Get a PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection) report - the Jaguar CPO checklist will suffice, plus the service history and an inspection report from a Jaguar-approved body shop for any paint or body repairs. Know exactly what you're buying. Above all, don't rely on anything the salesperson says; get his promises and representations in writing.

Good hunting!

 

I had good luck with paintless dent removal on two aluminium bodied Jag's. Like it never happened.

 

I just went through this, but it wasn't a CPO. I did, however, buy my '14 XK from a dealer.

- Spend $5 and get a title search at http://www.checkthatvin.com . Read the report for any potential title issues.
- Some dealers will have you pay for the car, drive it away, and then they'll FedEx the title to you days later. They do this because they use a separate title holding company that physically keeps all of their titles, and the title holding company sends it to you. Instead, INSIST on ONLY handing over the check when you have the title present and in your sights, ready for you to drive away with. In other words, don't drive away without the title.
- Inspect the title carefully, word-for-word, including spelling.
- Have the dealer, or a Jag-certified body shop, certify in-writing that they have found no previous damage history. A rebuilt car, of any type, if done poorly, can have structural issues and safety implications. Consider running away from a car with damage history.
- Drive the car at least up to 75 MPH (or higher), and ensure there are no shakes, vibration, etc.
- Obviously, move every switch and control, and have a friend verify that everything works (lights, motors, etc.).
- Insist on getting BOTH key fobs. If they only give you one, expect to pay around $700 to $900 for a second key fob. It's amazing how dealers "lose" the second key fob.
- Insist on getting all the manuals. Sometimes dealers store them elsewhere, and they get "lost."
- If the car has been sitting for a while, be aware of possible flat-spotting on the tires (i.e., not a true flat spot, but rather the tire becomes out-of-round), which can cause vibration, but is generally not an issue -- discuss it with the dealer if it's an issue.
- Make sure there are no smells or warning lights on. I've driven XKs with both of these, at dealers of all places, and they remarked like, "It's no big deal." Don't believe that. Consider running away from cars with smells and warning lights.
- After you buy it, park it in the same place every night, and pay close attention to new leaks/fluids on the ground. There should be none. If you find any, it indicates that something's leaking, and you should take it back to the dealer.

Luckily for me, my '14 XK has been problem-free. No leaks. No vibration. Fluids are clean. And, that's from a non-CPO XK. So, be encouraged that you're getting a CPO... just check all those boxes, above.

Whew... sorry for the long list! Just my experience.

 

I went for a really low mileage car (20k) on a 2008 and didn't realise things suffer so much from lack of use, all fixed now but things to check:

1. Grease on my front wheel bearing had completely dried out so had new hubs fitted as easier than getting new bearings pressed in. Symptoms were a weird pulsing vibration especially at higher speeds.
2. Make sure the aircon runs nice and cold. If not regularly used, the seals can shrink or crack. If your lucky, just a re gas but bigger bill if not.
3. I had a horrible 'creek' noise from steering column. It was a bearing right down the shaft that I was told was also due to lack of use, now changed.
4. Rear tyres were only half worn (original dunlops) but made a whine. New ones now fitted and quiet now. Could be the age of the rubber?

 

Engine leaks is another. Get the car on the lift to see if any gaskets are leaking due to non-consistent driving.

 

I can't second this advice enough! I purchased a 2001 Lotus Esprit and allowed my enthusiasm and "want it NOW!" to override my common sense. That's a main reason why I'm here in this forum as I'm in the same boat as the OP; I'm looking to purchase a 2010-2014 XKR and want to make sure I know what to look for.

A PPI is pretty much necessary, especially if you aren't local to the car's location. Ideally, if you do commit, make sure that your deposit is refundable if you get there and decide that you don't want it.

Finally, trust your gut...if you see things that don't add up or you don't have the best feeling, walk away; there will be other cars out there for you. I didn't do that and I've spent close to $10,000 in repairs/upgrades on things that were simply old (New tires the second day, rubber gaskets and seals, cooling system hoses, brake system hoses, etc.), that had I gone in with a lucid eye, I would have walked away from it.

That said, and maybe this should be a new thread, but what things should a potential purchaser look for in an XK/XKR? What are the known trouble areas, things that wear excessively, etc.?

Thanks!

 

There are several threads in this forum dealing with 5.0L XKs. The main thing to be concerned with regarding the engine is the water pump. Water pumps are prone to failure. There is no temperature gauge on these cars, just a warning light that tends to go off at the last minute (coolant temp set too high). You have hit the necessary steps with the dealer and body shop PPI.

Also, these cars like to be driven, so a relatively high mileage vehicle is ok as long as it has been maintained by the book. One last thing the electronics load in these cars leads to battery issues. If it is going sit for any length of time put it on a battery maintainer such as the CTek. good hunting and be patient and you will find what you want.

 

I don't think so much "prone to failure", but maybe 'fail more than they should'??? Mine's original OEM and it doesn't have a wobble, grind or howl to it at all, in 64,000 miles. Although there are several members in here who have experienced a WP failure, there are dozens and dozens more who have NOT had a failure. "Prone to Failure" insinuates a failure is imminent, and soon.

 

OK change prone to susceptible.

 

Thanks for the replies and suggestions! I'll see if my search-fu is strong tonight!

Kurt

 

What is defined as "any length of time"? I plan to drive the car on a regular basis, perhaps not every day, but certainly several days during the week. The longest it might sit would be if we have a snow/ice storm that renders the roads too dangerous for rear wheel drive car with 500+ horsepower or if I'm going to be out of town on vacation. Even with the bad weather, if it was more than a few days sitting idle I'd probably start it up just to make sure everything was ok.

Thanks!

 

Sort of an Aside but not really.... the "SNOW MODE" or whatever it is called works fairly well. I've never driven the XKR IN snow, but when it hasn't rained in a couple months or more and then it does, all the stank in the air gets deposited on the wet roads and they become quite slippery-slimy. Using that Snow Mode reduces the Agressiveness of the behavior and makes it a bit easier to maintain control.

 

My Duracell was installed nine months ago by the previous owner. The longest my car has sat since purchase was about five days. The engine turned over noticeably slower, but it did start. Based on my personal experience with a well maintained car and a new battery, I'd say seven days would be the longest I'd let it go without having a tender plugged in.

 

It takes no more than 15 to 20 minutes to install a battery tender. Then it takes no more than 30 to 45 seconds to either plug it in or unplug it. My XKR is a daily driver, however, I use my Ctek on a daily basis it is connected every night. I look at it as a form of insurance. As to your question I would define relatively in this instance as a week or more.

 

Only other thing: check the in-service date. It could easily be from mid-2012, which could mean you've got less than a year of warranty. Not a reason to pass on the car, but always good to know.