From the XJ (X351) Forum:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-5-0sc-227775/
Chain guides and tensioners were replaced with the new design and failed, apparently because of a buildup of sludge that prevented sufficient oil flow at startup.

Bottom line: Change your oil frequently and follow Q&C's advice in Post #7 in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...orking-227752/
Obviously, if you already have over 3,000 miles or 6 months on the existing oil, don't save it and simply add Techron and Lubeguard as explained above.

 

How do you guys find these treads, noticed a lot of the XK guys there. I have never been.
Note how small those passages are, and its all dependent on them being perfectly clean.

The engine cleaning process should really be ongoing.
There is no downside to pouring a bottle of techron in the fuel tank every 1000 miles.
The upside is tremendous, not just in keeping the galleys clean like I have talked about for years, but keeping VVT, injectors, rings, pitons heads in good performance.

 

If one tries to remove any sludge by following this procedure they risk dislodging any sludge to only become a problem by blocking the oil port holes of the tensioner. Therefore, self inflicting the problem one is trying to avoid. Any thoughts?

 

Don't you add the techron to the engine oil to clean the sludge out?

 

The sludge could well be "dissolved" by the likes of Techron and with more frequent oil changes with Techron will be gone/prevented .

When I first purchased my used 2013 Range Rover Sport I actually did 3 oil changes with an oil additive like Techron within 300 miles.

 

In my procedure that Stuart reposted, you wont remove chunks of sludge. Its much more gradual. The engine flush only gets the sticky oil, not chucks of carbon like the old flushes.

 

Lets take it from the top.

The best thing that removes sludge is clean engine oil- frequent oil changes is not a waste of money.

Every oil change use lubegard or ravenol, or liquimoly oil flush, they are all the same, they suspend sludge in oil and make the oil easier to flow. The big benefit is you get more of the old oil out. If you are a collector and will have this car with engine for a very long time- do a double oil change. Change oil with cheap oil and within 5 miles change it again, for this reason "it takes less than 5 percent oxidized oil mixed with new oil to reduce the oxidation stability of the new oil by more than 90 percent". And this car has like 15%+ of old oil leftover every time. Worse because you have to wait for the oil to cool before sucking on it, the 15% has the heaviest stuff in it.

Use techron through the fuel system. (I told that other guy to add it directly to the crankcase to help clean up the galleys)

 

What do you recommend for a 2014 XKR with 14,000 miles as preventative maintenance. My car is now up on stands for complete fluid changes, ediif (done), transmission. (almost done). Engine oil is next.

 

I'm active on the X150 (XK/XKR) and X351 (XJ) Forums because I have an XKR and an XJ. I'm not alone.

 

Not knowing the mechanical competence of the people recommending putting techron in the engine oil for sludge cleaning and with Chevron not mentioning it as a recommended use in engine oil I don't know what to think. One would think that Chevron, the manufacture of techron, would promote their product as an engine cleaner additive to oil for flushing the engine if it were safe. I like the idea of purging the sludge and not giving it the chance to accumulate to cause problems. However, before following someones advice it is always good to know how they certify their recommendation. I like the idea. I just want to ensure it is safe.

 

I've also limited my searches to the X150 section until John, jackra_1, directed me to a thread by Don in the X350/X358 section on transmission fluid change. There is so much on the forum spread out through all sections applicable to the X150. One should not , also, limit their search to the Jaguar forum. A lot of the components used to build our Jaguars are also used by other brands, BMW, Audi, Hyundai, and of course, Ford.

 

Absolutely good advice.

When I log on I look at new threads/posts and the topics listed as there is good info all over the place not just in "my" X350 section.

Also since I have a 5.0 engine in my Rover I am interested in any details on 5.0 engines. The Range Rover forum is just
no match for this forum.

 

Buy decent fuel... https://toptiergas.com/licensed-brands/

 

You dont need to put techron in your oil. Even though it ends up there. Why bypass your injectors when you are not in a rush.
You can use it regularly by adding it to gasoline and follow directions.
PEA based cleaner (the only thing proven to work) works by not burning off and mixing with oil.

What Stuart was saying is, in the beginning there were many theories as to why the tensioner fails or fails to keep tension.
Some suspected the ratchet mechanism or the guide too soft, oil being too thick (in fact, Stuart was one who believed that just using thin oil might suffice).
5 years ago I was alone in saying its the oil passages getting clogged up and had proof by curing my own car of its symptoms. It was my very first post.
Looks like time proved me right. More importantly it proved the do-nothing crowd wrong.

There are some who actually argued that just good gas was enough.
I guess its just perspective, there are many here who have had to replace injectors, including GGG, right after getting his car, and probably? as many who have not had any trouble.
I say just use business decision making, the cost of using cleaner is nothing but peace of mind, the cost of not using cleaner is loss of performance, sleep and a big bill.

You asked in a separate thread what steps to ensure you dont have a dirty engine. You probably dont given its age and mileage.
But just to make sure no deposits were formed from using wrong oil or shitty gas do the following:

• Run 3 bottles of this over 500 miles (just the highest concentrate of PEA)
  Amazon
  Amazon
• Drain the oil
• fill with this oil
  Amazon
  Amazon
• Add this
  Amazon
  Amazon
• run for 5 minutes and drain
• Add whatever oil you use

I got this from an automotive engineer friend of mine, a different friend also from automotive industry and forum member here also does this .

 

Q & C, wha do you recommend as a method to clean the valves through spraying cleaning into the air intake? Is there an easy and safe way?

 

0w20 oil

 

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https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...leaner-225304/

Look at the above.

 

​​​​​​​I looked and can't find a definitive safe way of doing.

 

I am going to drill my intake as soon as I find a pretty fastener to serve as the port.
Since I will be using it as much as the oil fill port.

Just comes down to what you care for more, the replaceable intake tube or optimal performance.

 

This is "oil shock" theory. During BMW lifetime transmission fill days, how to get out of this conundrum was discussed to death. Personally, I had good luck with gradual changes of ATF. If you suspect PO didn't do a good job changing engine oil, I'd first go on a regime of frequent oil changes before jumping into a flush.

Step 1: Determine if you have a problem. Scope will tell you nearly complete story, but simply looking under an oil fill cap will give you some indication.
Step 2: Keep changing your oil frequently, taking care never to exceed JLR recommended change interval and ideally reducing it by half.
Step 3: Ensure that your engine sees at least some extended drives, so it isn't all short trips.