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I am going to drill my intake as soon as I find a pretty fastener to serve as the port.
Since I will be using it as much as the oil fill port.
Just comes down to what you care for more, the replaceable intake tube or optimal performance.
Q&C why would you not use the vacuum actuator hose? Simple barbed Tee or Y and rubber cap when not in use would gain you access into air flow, correct? I took a pic of it in your valve cleaner thread post #36.
Q&C why would you not use the vacuum actuator hose? Simple barbed Tee or Y and rubber cap when not in use would gain you access into air flow, correct? I took a pic of it in your valve cleaner thread post #36.
Cause you never explained it that way before.
That's what I was looking for, a repeatable way of doing it every six months without breaking hoses and connectors.
Cause you never explained it that way before.
That's what I was looking for, a repeatable way of doing it every six months without breaking hoses and connectors.
I am going to machine one. And make it available to all.
Lets put our heads together to figure out the design.
The port I know should be the OD of plastic straw and it can be capped of with a nylon hex head screw. See anything wrong with that?
This is "oil shock" theory. During BMW lifetime transmission fill days, how to get out of this conundrum was discussed to death. Personally, I had good luck with gradual changes of ATF. If you suspect PO didn't do a good job changing engine oil, I'd first go on a regime of frequent oil changes before jumping into a flush.
Step 1: Determine if you have a problem. Scope will tell you nearly complete story, but simply looking under an oil fill cap will give you some indication.
Step 2: Keep changing your oil frequently, taking care never to exceed JLR recommended change interval and ideally reducing it by half.
Step 3: Ensure that your engine sees at least some extended drives, so it isn't all short trips.
Sound advice. But question (or opinion) on the bold above: For those of us doing 4-5k miles/year, I still believe yearly oil changes are ok as sludge does not build up while not running and the additives in the oil are not that degraded. Opinion? thanks.
I am going to machine one. And make it available to all.
Lets put our heads together to figure out the design.
The port I know should be the OD of plastic straw and it can be capped of with a nylon hex head screw. See anything wrong with that?
I was thinking a simple fitting like the following:
Sound advice. But question (or opinion) on the bold above: For those of us doing 4-5k miles/year, I still believe yearly oil changes are ok as sludge does not build up while not running and the additives in the oil are not that degraded. Opinion? thanks.
Depends on how hard are these 4-5K miles/year. If these are all short drives around town or include some track time, then you are better off changing more frequently. If these are highway miles, you are perfectly fine.
Oil does degrade with time, but it does not notably degrade in just 1 year. Project farm looked into this recently, I recommend watching that video on YouTube.
Depends on how hard are these 4-5K miles/year. If these are all short drives around town or include some track time, then you are better off changing more frequently. If these are highway miles, you are perfectly fine.
Oil does degrade with time, but it does not notably degrade in just 1 year. Project farm looked into this recently, I recommend watching that video on YouTube.
Thanks. I saw that a few days ago. Interesting stuff. I love that channel.
Just need to verify the I.D. of the vacuum hose???
Get this.
I try to take that hose off to measure the ID, its just crumbling and compressing, like 20 year old rubber does. My fingers are like I played with coal.
On the other end where that tube connects to the intake duct, it's just very loosely in there, it would not stay snug. Anyway its 6mm what I measured.
Last edited by Queen and Country; 01-13-2020 at 02:20 PM.
Reason: typos after losing nerve
Quick rant: UK manufacturing is obsessively environmentally conscious.
They should use asbestos in the rubber and plastics if it makes them last longer and keep the entire fcking car out of the landfill.
Maybe he is asking about he crumbling rubber.
This is a spotless engine, the rubber dust and cracks and tears you see is from me gently giving the rubber tube a spin to free it loose. I spotted.
Here is the other end where it connects to the intake.
George could you take the same picture. I cannot believe there is no connector there, its just a very loose fit.
Maybe he is asking about he crumbling rubber.
This is a spotless engine, the rubber dust and cracks and tears you see is from me gently giving the rubber tube a spin to free it loose. I spotted.
Here is the other end where it connects to the intake.
George could you take the same picture. I cannot believe there is no connector there, its just a very loose fit.
No problem Q&C just please give me a day or 2 as fully loaded work wise just now. mine dont look that bad to be honest . i was looking for photos please of the steps to spray that can into intake tubes if you could be kind once you set up the plug fix
You can check out a post by Bigg Will over on the X250 forum. He came up with a set up that allowed him to sit in the drivers seat and use the throttle while spraying in the cleaner.
01-13-2020, 11:22 AM
loads of fish n chips
