XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

5 months and stuck on the side of the road already

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  #41  
Old 05-30-2014, 04:14 PM
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BklynChris...Have you made any modifications to the engine?
 
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  #42  
Old 05-30-2014, 05:12 PM
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This is the text from one of the Jaguar technical bulletins on the 5.0L water pumps:

Cause: Coolant ingress into the bearing housing leads to corrosion of the bearing and incorrect support for the impeller shaft. This in turn causes accelerated wear of the mechanical flat face seal leading to coolant loss sufficient to generate a low coolant level warning message in the Instrument Pack display.

NOTE: The water pump can display some dry coolant residue on the pump body, and surrounding area, during normal operation. A small amount of coolant may temporarily weep through the pump seals or from the evaporation chamber. This does not affect the operation of the pump or the cooling system, and it does not damage the water pump. A small amount of dry coolant residue on the pump body, pulleys, belts, or around the front of the engine are not alone sufficient justification for changing a water pump.

Then there is SSM50177:

Issue: The Customer reports a low coolant message on the instrument pack display. A coolant leak is identified from the area around the coolant pump pulley. This affects 5.0L engines only on XJ, XF, XK.

Cause: Internal sealing failure.
Action: Revised water pumps are available to order through Unipart, part number C2D 20660.
 
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  #43  
Old 05-30-2014, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by u102768
This is the text from one of the Jaguar technical bulletins on the 5.0L water pumps:

Cause: Coolant ingress into the bearing housing leads to corrosion of the bearing and incorrect support for the impeller shaft. This in turn causes accelerated wear of the mechanical flat face seal leading to coolant loss sufficient to generate a low coolant level warning message in the Instrument Pack display.

NOTE: The water pump can display some dry coolant residue on the pump body, and surrounding area, during normal operation. A small amount of coolant may temporarily weep through the pump seals or from the evaporation chamber. This does not affect the operation of the pump or the cooling system, and it does not damage the water pump. A small amount of dry coolant residue on the pump body, pulleys, belts, or around the front of the engine are not alone sufficient justification for changing a water pump.

Then there is SSM50177:

Issue: The Customer reports a low coolant message on the instrument pack display. A coolant leak is identified from the area around the coolant pump pulley. This affects 5.0L engines only on XJ, XF, XK.

Cause: Internal sealing failure.
Action: Revised water pumps are available to order through Unipart, part number C2D 20660.

It seems from a pervious post that the part number for this revised water pump has been updated twice.
 
  #44  
Old 05-30-2014, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bklynchris
No. It just said "low coolant" off and on for about 40 to 50 miles...I was in the middle of nowhere, then boom, "engine overheating" and "battery not charging." That's all.
What a crock!
I am going to talk to you as if i was the service writer......

I felt sympathy for you until I read 'low coolant for about 40-50 miles'. You didnt have time to stop and check for 40-50 miles??(Love how you posted that)

would you have done the same if it said low oil pressure for 40-50 miles, intermittently??

So the water pump went bad. Sh*t happens...........

But you compounded the problem by continuing to drive the car in 100 degree weather.

and now u want Jag to fix something that YOU CAUSED.
The engine wasnt blown until you ignored a problem.
That is your issue, not the factory.

The factory owes you a water pump and nothing more.............................................. ..........

if I was the service manager I wouldnt allow it to get done, and if the heads were so warpped that they had to be trashed, that I wouldnt give you new ones. You would get heads off a trashed car and I would bead blast them to look like new. You wouldnt know the difference

Let me tell you what the inside of your engine looks like:
You flattened the cams
you either warped the heads or you cracked them. It is much easier to crack an aluminum head than a steel head
the valves are toast, dont know about the guides though

If there was a dip stick I would pull it, but there aint and I would bet that you leaked water into the oil thru a crack or warp

Then if you dissasemble the block you will find a milkshake in the pan.
The main bearings are trashed most likely along with the crank
This would not have happened if you would have stopped the first time you saw low coolant on the idiot board!

this is what I would do for you if I was the service manager, cause you admitted to driving the car on low coolant:

I would drain the milkshake from the car with a vacuum drain
I would put in a 50-50 mix of trans fluid along with mobil 1 to eat the
milkshake
I would then drain that

I would put i engine sealant, with a heavy weight oil, but definitely not a synthetic.
This would prevent a near term leak. Synthetic is too slippery.
I would put thermo gasket sealer, the high temp silver kind on the new head gaskets, cause you wouldnt bother to look, and it would give me more material to fill any possible gap to prevent a leak.

Then I would give the car back to you.

your warranty is only good for 1 more month, and then the factory doesnt have to be bothered by you cause, you will send the engine to its eternal grave and you wont buy another Jag

I am totally amazed that you think the factory owes you further than the water pump
Your problem was not realizing that you shouldnt be driving a hi-perf car, but admitting to abuse, negligence and indifference.
 

Last edited by JimC64; 05-31-2014 at 07:08 PM. Reason: content removed
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  #45  
Old 05-30-2014, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by axr6
Chris

My advice would be to just let Jaguar take care of the car under warranty without making any "demands". They will probably play nice and fix it for you fine. If you were to stick to "demands" and hold out for new this or that, they may pull the history files from your car and point out that you drove 40 - 50 miles with on-off low coolant warnings, which could effect the warranty coverage.

Better fly low, IMO.
Good advice. I was looking for a place to pull over, put there was no place. I-5 is a desert!
 
  #46  
Old 05-30-2014, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bocatrip
BklynChris...Have you made any modifications to the engine?
No, not yet. I was going to Houston in mid-June to get the tune and pulley done.....I may be lucky it happened now rather than then as Jaguar may have blamed the incident on the mods.
 
  #47  
Old 05-30-2014, 11:52 PM
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First of all, when I stopped, it was on the side of the road, not in a gas station, there weren't any. I was past Bakersfield and not near any town or gas station or rest area or anything. Second, it was 4 am in the morning, so I'm sure it wasn't 100 degrees. I am not a moron! I was with my 12 year old son and was looking for a place to stop, there just wasn't a place. Since the warning light wasnt steady, I believed i could make it to a sevice station. I guess I was wrong. I saw a warning light come on briefly, for maybe 2 to 5 seconds then go off. I didn't think the car was so fragile that I could make it to a gas station. The light was not on steady. When I got a steady warning, I did pull over!! I DID NOT CAUSE THE WATER PUMP TO GO BELLY UP! Tell me, if you see a warning light come on, then go off, then you drive a few mile and it comes on and then go off, and you're in the middle of nowhere with a 12 year old, tell me, you're going to just pull over to the shoulder or would you try to make it to a service station???
 
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Old 05-31-2014, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bklynchris
I did pull over!! I DID NOT CAUSE THE WATER PUMP TO GO BELLY UP! Tell me, if you see a warning light come on, then go off, then you drive a few mile and it comes on and then go off, and you're in the middle of nowhere with a 12 year old, tell me, you're going to just pull over to the shoulder or would you try to make it to a service station???
No, you didnt trash the water pump. You trashed the engine.
You had a cell phone to call service to pick u up per your post.

I assume u r a guy.
Granted u had a 12 year old. I have been jammed up in the middle of nowhere , and i am a woman.

And no, I wouldnt have tried to make it to the next service station if I knew that the engine would be toast.

But then again, I have been working on cars since I was 14.

Maybe u arent a mechanic. I am not either
U are putting the blame on the water pump and not your decision to drive further into the desert with a 12 year old.
In the final analysis, you took a chance with a 12 year old and drove the child further into the desert than if you would have stopped. Next time use some common sense
 

Last edited by JimC64; 05-31-2014 at 07:03 PM. Reason: content removed
  #49  
Old 05-31-2014, 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bocatrip
It seems from a pervious post that the part number for this revised water pump has been updated twice.
Yup, I was just quoting the SSM from 2011. The latest number is coming up as C2Z21781.
 
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  #50  
Old 05-31-2014, 07:05 AM
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Here I go again but let me tell you of my Ferrari experience. When I 1st got my 308 it just came out of it's 30K mile major maintenance ($2K). About 6 months later I was driving home (5 miles away) when my alternator light came on. I pulled over and couldn't see anything and got in and took off. I now started to see my water temperature gauge start to clime past 200*. I put 2 and 2 together and realized the alt/WP belt broke. Pulled over and shut down for 5-10 mins. Started it up and WT down to 190* and I was 3 miles from home. I drove it until WT hit 220* and shut it down. It cooled down to 200* and I started and drove it home into the garage. The 3.0L Ferrari engine is also an all alloy block and heads. Rebuild costs run from $15-$20K. The WP was rebuildable at a cost of $250 but it took me 6 hours to get it out. As I mentioned I've always had cars with gauges and my normal habit was to scan the gauge set periodically. Warning lights are great but the gauges give you early warning of potential problems. Even the new F-Type has a WT Gauge. So it looks like I'll have to invest in an ELM and Torquepro setup.
 
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  #51  
Old 05-31-2014, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by u102768
Yup, I was just quoting the SSM from 2011. The latest number is coming up as C2Z21781.
What year car got this 2nd updated water pump...2012+ ? I wonder if the problem was fixed. Was it a JTB to replace water pumps?
 
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:38 AM
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Please keep us posted.
 

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  #53  
Old 05-31-2014, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Lothar52
What year car got this 2nd updated water pump...2012+ ? I wonder if the problem was fixed. Was it a JTB to replace water pumps?


I was told by my my local Jaguar service manager that Jaguar has updated the original water pump 3 times. I'm not sure all these updates apply to any XK that is 2010 or newer. It would be nice to know that after one horrendous experience with a water pump failure we would not have to wait for another.
 
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  #54  
Old 05-31-2014, 12:59 PM
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SoCal: bit harsh, really. If I saw a 'Low coolant' warning flash on briefly and then go off again, rather than staying on, I would assume it would be a good idea to top the water up at my next stop because it was a bit low. I wouldn't interpret it as "Car has lost all cooling, stop immediately". That's the problem with the XK's lack of gauges and reliance on idiot lights. What the workshop manual says is:

COOLANT LEVEL LOW - Red warning triangle illuminated in LCD - Coolant level in expansion tank has fallen below minimum level.
  • Stop vehicle and allow engine to idle for 5 minutes. Switch off engine and allow to stand for not less than 10 minutes. Check coolant level and replenish expansion tank to maximum level.
  • If message re-appears, investigate coolant system for leakage.

The interesting thing is, it gives the exact same procedure for "ENGINE OVERHEATING", i.e. stop and let it idle for 5 mins. Which, in this case, would have made things get worse, because there was no water pump. It sounds like what is needed is a sensor for water pump operation.
 
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  #55  
Old 05-31-2014, 01:38 PM
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If both over heating and low water lights came on and stayed on then I would think it would be fair to say that immediate service and engine stopping would be warranted. However, with only the low water coolant light coming on and going off would leave one to believe the water coolant level is low and there is no immediate need to stop the engine but could be serviced by adding water at the next available service location. No need to be so hash life is short and we should give the OP the benefit of doubt.
 
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  #56  
Old 05-31-2014, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JgaXkr
Please keep us posted.
Will do, thx
 
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Old 05-31-2014, 02:46 PM
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As always, I'm going to take you guys advice and keep my mouth shut and let then fix my car. I am planning another father/son trip to NY this time in July. My question is, do you guys think my car will be the same? If so, will I or should I continue with the tune/pulley mod? I was thinking, based on you guys' response, to drive to NY and if everything seems ok, then stop in Houston on the way back to Phoenix and get the mods done. First and foremost I'm concerned about getting my car repaired back to its original condition, but I really was looking forward to the tune/pulley upgrade. I appreciate all the helpful comments I've received. Once again you guys demonstrate just how awesome you are. Thanks!!!
 
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Old 05-31-2014, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bklynchris
As always, I'm going to take you guys advice and keep my mouth shut and let then fix my car. I am planning another father/son trip to NY this time in July. My question is, do you guys think my car will be the same? If so, will I or should I continue with the tune/pulley mod? I was thinking, based on you guys' response, to drive to NY and if everything seems ok, then stop in Houston on the way back to Phoenix and get the mods done. First and foremost I'm concerned about getting my car repaired back to its original condition, but I really was looking forward to the tune/pulley upgrade. I appreciate all the helpful comments I've received. Once again you guys demonstrate just how awesome you are. Thanks!!!

Personally, I would not push any mods. You will just be opening the door for Jaguar to renege on any future repairs regardless if they are even related to the mods you are doing. Do you want that hassle? It's entirely your call, but you may have it on your mind anytime the car has an issue. If it was an older car without any warranty, I would say go have a field day! But a big part of your car's value is the factory warranty. If you are planning on letting it expire and are not getting an extended warranty, just wait until it expires. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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Old 05-31-2014, 04:09 PM
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the OP made a decision based on an intermittent indication and at 4 in the AM, many factors acted in the decision process. Whether the rest of us would have made that same decision or not is no reason for a thrashing. We're all entitled to our own opinion but let's stay civil
 
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Old 05-31-2014, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by sklimii
the OP made a decision based on an intermittent indication and at 4 in the AM, many factors acted in the decision process. Whether the rest of us would have made that same decision or not is no reason for a thrashing. We're all entitled to our own opinion but let's stay civil

Well said. I couldn't agree more.
 
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Quick Reply: 5 months and stuck on the side of the road already



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