Wonder what parts and fluids he uses?

 

As I've said before if/when I've used Indy mechanics I ALWAYS supply my own parts so something like that would never be a concern... in this case the pan ,gasket, and tranny fluid), not only are you then assured which parts are going in you will save a TON of money right there as they will charge you at least list price where you can get the parts for wholesale prices and simply pay them labor.

If/when mine comes due I'll do it myself thanks to Fly2c's excellent and considerate write up here

 

I bought the ZF transmission service kits (pan, filter, fluid) once from that place a lot use online, the other time from a local source. Standard ZF offering.

I think even when my mechanic just ordered it from where ever locally; the price was about the same. VDP and XK were both within $100 for same service. One car I bought the parts, the other he supplied. I only did the XK as the pan was cracked. Car had 15K at the time. He said that is a common issue as the pan is plastic.

 

From this source: http://www.zf.com/media/media/docume...hselkit_EN.pdf

ZF automatic transmissions are filled with specially developed semi-synthetic oils.
At very high operating temperatures, the oil ages faster than under normal conditions. Examples:
 Many trips at high speeds.
 Many trips with a trailer in tow.
 Sporty driving.
Depending on the driving style, ZF therefore recommends a transmission oil change every 80 000 to 120 000 km, or after 8 years at the latest.

 

According to BRUTAL you should only use LG6 in the ZF transmission and this confirms any other questions that I had...

 

That link seems to be dead, perhaps it is the same document I have saved on my PC for future use. It does refer to the ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid as the correct selection for this tranny.

I have attached the ZF service information regarding the refill kit and procedure.

 

If you're coming to this thread a few years later, you may be on your second change, or still on your first at a higher mileage.

We learned on BMW's, which use the full range of ZF trannys on it's line, that the five interfaces between the mechatronics and the turbine section degrade over time. If you drive in heat, or tow (not likely) or work your tranny hard, these plastic/rubber interfaces should be replaced around 80-100 Kmi. This is a "since you're in there" kind of thing.

There are two types, both of which are involved in the process of pumping fluid between the working part of the transmission. There are 4 tubes, which shrink and harden. There is a double square shaped piece, which hardens and cracks. In both cases, fluid pressure can be affected, which means the management of the transmission starts to get sloppy, causing wear and poor shifting.

The change is pretty easy for a DIY. You remove the fluid and plastics filter pan, then remove the mechatronics. The old rubbers are pulled and replaced. The reverse assembly -- and note you MUST use a torque wrench (meaning you're dealing with mechatronics torques around 10NM, so the wrench needs to be accurate) when you put everything back. Adds a leisurely 30-45 minutes, assuming you're on a lift. About 90 min if you're on your back. Easier with a helper. But it's messy. Goggles and cheap clothes.

Guide attached. Both are BMW docs, but apply to the Jag.

Best, panthera

 

It's in the DIY sticky
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...enance-227403/

 

Hope its ok to add some more information. I used this thread to complete work on my car.

I used OEM ZF parts for this work (sourced from Autodoc - other sources are available)
1068.298.083 - new ZF oil sump and integrated filter c/w new sump bolts and gearbox fill plug
1068.298.090 - new ZF mechatronic seal kit - 4 sleeves, mechatronic plug seal, bridge seal

Gearbox oil - Smith & Allan Tranguard ATF M1375.4 - 10litres

ZF instruction manual for this work - the flow charts in particular are very useful for filling and sump torquing.
https://techtips.alleuro.com/wp-cont...compressed.pdf

Best source for seal replacement info, including mechatronic bolt torquing sequence.
http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/th...eplacement.pdf


My oil fill setup. Sealey AK54 pulled and pushed oil perfectly even in cold temperatures. Make sure you have plenty cardboard sheets etc to catch the spills.


If your looking for a cost effective way to torque the sump bolts and mechatronic, I can recommend this Topeak one, meant for bikes.


Setup for working under car. Jack up each corner and sleeper underneath. This is the minimum room you’d probably want underneath to do this job.


Space to get allen key up side of gearbox to remove fill plug. Practice putting plug in with your hand - if you curve your hand round the gearbox sump you should manage while avoiding hot exhaust when filling. Note gearbox heatshield plate has been removed to improve access to plug.


Sump off gearbox. Jack supporting box while you remove gearbox mount (left side of pic). When mount was removed it was fine to remove jack in my experience for rest of job - the gearbox hardly dropped at all.


Sorry for fuzzy picture but this is gearbox sump off and mechatronic removed. You can now see the bridge seal (far right) and 4 sleeves (middle).


My old gearbox sump was stamped inside 2007 so sump and seals original. You can see slight shrinkage of original seal vs new.


Same for bridge seal - rubber seals shrunk top and bottom of bridge.


Gearbox support mount so you can see how it comes out. All bolts are 13mm hex. You undo the 4 x vertical bolts first, then the 2 vertical ones come out to release it from gearbox. I did think I needed to remove exhaust clamps to do this but they are actually tack welded to exhaust! You should manage to sneak mount bolts out past the exhaust clamp bolts.


When the gearbox support is removed, you can now see and access the mechatronic sleeve for removal. Old one comes out far easier than new one will go in! If the white locking tab in the gearbox does not go up easily, the sleeve is not far enough in. Note the 'aerial filter' module thats slightly in the way - it unbolts with a single 8mm hex bolt and you can unplug the harness.
A few tips to get new sleeve in - (looking at above photo) if you lie under car correctly you should manage to get your right hand up the right hand side of the gearbox to 'pull' seal into place. Left hand can assist by pushing. Make sure you lubricate the seals with oil before inserting. Push it in as far as you can and check its home by pushing up the white locking tab in the gearbox. I cut a small square block of wood and tapped final few mm with a hammer - there's not much room for hammer but should not need much to get it home.


From side of car, you can just see gearbox fill hole above heat shield.


I used iCarsoft to measure gearbox temp for filling.
1) Engine off. When ready to fill gearbox, fill as much as it will take until fluid comes out (around 3L or so). Put fill plug in loose (best to practice this with cold engine as it will be hot later on...)
2) Start car, fill plug out, fill as much as it will take until fluid comes out (around 7L total by now). Put fill plug in loose (hot engine / exhaust...).
3) Allow car to cool more or less completely. You need to be efficient for this step to keep the temps in spec for filling. Start car, follow ZF instructions shuffling through gears etc, remove gearbox fill plug, fill as much as it will take until fluid comes out (around 0.5L - shouldn't need much). Hopefully by this point gearbox oil temp is still below the magic 40deg - be patient as temp increases, allowing oil to drip out fill hole until oil temp is 40deg and put plug in! Put new fill plug in loose. Allow car to cool and torque plug.

 

Great writeup! Love the blocks -- doing this in the driveway is a bitch. I had a lift for mine and it was still tiresome.

Did both your bridge seals have the tab? I see one was turned around so could not tell. Good example of seal shrinkage, for those who haven't done it yet.

Definitely worthwhile to do the bridge seals on the mechatronics when replacing the fluid.

Was your scanner able to get a measurement of fluid pressure after the job? Just curious.

Worst part of the job for me was the damn exhaust pipe.

 

I promised myself I will get a lift or pit one day! I was glad to have my creeper trolley to slide around on but still 'not amazing'. Agree about the exhaust and heatshields - not great especially when exhaust is hot. Worth having degreaser for end of job to clean exhaust off.

Yes both bridge seals had tab on with gearbox model stamped on.

It is worthwhile changing the seals now the gearboxes are around 15 years old. The worst part about that job is probably changing the mechatronic sleeve as the new one is quite tough to get back in. You also hear stories about the bridge seal cracking. All of my old ones seemed in good condition apart from shrinkage.

You reminded me about the mechatronic unit bolts - it's easy to panic about what bolts go where. There are 3 bolt sizes used.
3 x T40 short bolts (11, 12, 13) - these go on plastic edge of mechatronic.
Small amount of long T27 bolts - pay attention to mechatronic and you can identify the holes these go in as they are actually slightly narrower
Large amount of long T40 bolts - pay attention to mechatronic and you can identify the holes these go in as they are actually slightly larger than the T27 bolts



Small point, but ideally when removing / installing mechatronic you leave bolts 1 & 4 till last / first, as per documentation I referenced.

I don't know if iCarsoft does fluid pressure but can have a look next time it's out - it's a superb piece of kit for these cars and you can leave it in the glovebox in its carry pouch.