So, in your case the replacement of a faulty AFS power module for an original metal one did the job?

 

I, like everyone else on this thread, get the warning light every so often. Sometimes I go a year or more without it coming on, sometimes it will go on every day for a week. What is more concerning to me than the annoyance of the amber light flashing in my face, is the fact that more often than not, my headlights will not be pointing straight ahead so that I can see anything at night and this happens without the warning light. Typically, the headlights are pointing up to the left, ligthing up trees or signs up above the car to the left. Eventually, with a couple of hard slaps and locking and unlocking (sometimes several times) it will return to normal. However, with my poor night vision, it's terrifying when I all of a sudeen can't see anything in front of me. It happens more often without a warning than it does with the warning.

 

When I have the dreaded Yellow Light, my headlights have already completed the aiming sequence and they still move around corners. i.e. normal operation.

 

Same. I've had three headlamps replaced. 2 drivers side and one passenger side. Fixed the issue for a couple years but the light came on again a few weeks ago. Shut the car off and turned it back on and it's gone again. I'm sure it will be back.

 

Most of the posts on this thread are not very encouraging for me. It seems that for most of us the replacement of a "faulty" AFS Power Module and/or replacement of the AFS Control Module does not do the job. Even after the replacement of the headlight unit the problem might return. For the time being I will use the trick of slapping the headlights and locking/unlocking the car once every 1-3 months which still works for me, although we have no idea why this works and how and where this trick interferes in the AFS electronic system.

 

Same as mine. Started coming up occasionally yet AFS remained functional. I never slapped anything or opened or closed doors, the MIL would go away on its own shortly after.

it wasn’t until recently that it completely failed as explained in my thread link posted above. After replacing the module the problem never returned and all is well.

If and when it fails completely then I will disable AFS and have fixed headlamps with manual adjustment. No big deal really. I’d be more concerned about major systems failures as these age more and more.

For those perplexed by intermittent faults, can be many things but understand electronics, as they age, will have component level failures, some may be intermittent some may happen instantly.

 

OK, so I am now responding to my very old post, but thought this would be a useful update for many of us who have adaptive headlight(s) that don't work. I didn't manage to fix it at the time so just lived with the annoying warning light on the dash for years. BUT...then I got a different fault showing up at random times....something like "dynamic suspension failure" (I can't remember the exact words). Anyway, I put the diagnostics on it and it was a fault in the front right height sensor so the computer could not guauge the suspension height and the result was a very hard ride !
A new sensor was about £140 from Jaguar (much cheaper on Ebay but I went for Jag). Local garage fitted it and hey presto....no more adaptive headlight fault either. I did some research in the workshop manual, and it seems that this height sensor (which was a quick job to fit) is somehow linked to the headlight. So.....finally the problem is solved and a cheap fix given that a new headlight unit is close to a whopping £2,000 !
I hope that this is useful to anyother members on here with the same problem.

 

Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. I'm confident that this will happen to others some time in the future. 👍

 

thanks for posting, I need to take the black tape off my dash one of these days.

 

yes...it drives you nuts ! I kept thinking I had left a blinker on

 

My son's 2007 XKR had both headlights aimed ridiculously low as to be unusable and no adjustment would get them higher. I checked the Ride Height Sensor and the bracket was all bent and the sensor arm was backwards. A bit of bending and such put it back to normal and the headlights both pointed correctly afterwards. There was no warnings anywhere.

 

Cool!

From the workshop manual..

 

Since we're on the subject..... I don't drive that often at night. I've been wondering which might be best at preserving the Adaptive Headlight function. Leave the headlights in Auto - exercise the leveling function on every startup in the garage. Or leave them off - don't wear out the plastic gears. Thoughts welcome.

 

I thought they calibrated at start-up whether the lights were on or not.

 

I don't think the plastic gears are likely to wear out. It is more likely that a sensor will fail as in my case. I tend to have my lights on all the time simply for safety as there are no daytime running lights. I noticed driving in the USA last summer that many states request you put your headlights on all the time for safety....seems a good idea to me.

 

They don't on mine. Off is off. And I've read threads where the plastic gears do go out along with other faults. Just trying to take a preventive measure. Maybe use them on occasion to keep everything moving freely.

Thanks for your reply, Falkie. I'm not convinced headlights will save me in some of the traffic here. ;-)

 

I stand corrected.

It seems weird though, because it means that if you decide to turn the headlights on while driving - say if you go into a tunnel - then they'll wiggle about then and there, when you want to see where you're going.

 

I would think that if you have the lights in Auto and they come on when you enter the tunnel, they'd still do the dance unless some speed input somewhere tells them not to. In any event, I've decided to leave them Off most of the time, maybe turn them on once a month. But, come to think of it, when I pull in the garage with the lights in Auto, they come on, but don't dance. Guess I answered myself. Thanks for your thoughts though.

 

Indeed - so as I thought, they must calibrate at start-up regardless of whether they're illuminated or not, and regardless of the stalk switch position.