Alpine Amp and Woofer Question Please
#1
Alpine Amp and Woofer Question Please
hi. i'm wanting to replace the crappy woofer in the alpine sub/amp combo in the passenger foot well. does anyone know what ohms the amp puts out, so i can chose the right speaker (if i can find one that even will fit). wondering if a 4 or 8 ohm speaker is needed. i don't have a meter to check, so was hoping someone would know before i have to buy one or borrow one. tnx.
#2
hi. i'm wanting to replace the crappy woofer in the alpine sub/amp combo in the passenger foot well. does anyone know what ohms the amp puts out, so i can chose the right speaker (if i can find one that even will fit). wondering if a 4 or 8 ohm speaker is needed. i don't have a meter to check, so was hoping someone would know before i have to buy one or borrow one. tnx.
But I can give you some direction that an aftermarket driver will not be as sensitive as the one you are taking out.
#3
You cannot measure a speaker with an impedance meter. Nor does it matter. There will be a mismatch when you change. Its not just the impedance (ohms) but also the efficiency (sensitivity) and your new amps driving power.
But I can give you some direction that an aftermarket driver will not be as sensitive as the one you are taking out.
But I can give you some direction that an aftermarket driver will not be as sensitive as the one you are taking out.
#4
I cannot say if the driver you have now is better or not. Keep in mind that OEMs have a different criteria, it must be light and efficient. After Markets dont care if it is light, nor the amount of power you have to feed it. So yes they can easily be better, but at a cost.
What size driver do you have that you are replacing? I can recommend a good one.
Also where are you located and what car?
What size driver do you have that you are replacing? I can recommend a good one.
Also where are you located and what car?
#5
hi. im not concerned about the weight. the hard part is finding one that fits. the stock speaker from end to end is 6-3/4" with zero extra room involved (as it's in a recessed opening), with a just over 4" overall depth. definitely seems worth replacing with something quality
if it can fit. pics attached....
if it can fit. pics attached....
The following users liked this post:
kj07xk (05-17-2016)
#6
Ok this can be improved upon, although its not entirely bogus.
BTW thats a 4ohm driver, it says so on the driver.
Measure the outside diameter with precision and I will help you out. Also verify that its an actual subwoofer. I dont think it is. It matters because we need to pick a driver that will cover the frequencies you are removing.
We make drivers.
BTW thats a 4ohm driver, it says so on the driver.
Measure the outside diameter with precision and I will help you out. Also verify that its an actual subwoofer. I dont think it is. It matters because we need to pick a driver that will cover the frequencies you are removing.
We make drivers.
#7
Ok this can be improved upon, although its not entirely bogus.
BTW thats a 4ohm driver, it says so on the driver.
Measure the outside diameter with precision and I will help you out. Also verify that its an actual subwoofer. I dont think it is. It matters because we need to pick a driver that will cover the frequencies you are removing.
We make drivers.
BTW thats a 4ohm driver, it says so on the driver.
Measure the outside diameter with precision and I will help you out. Also verify that its an actual subwoofer. I dont think it is. It matters because we need to pick a driver that will cover the frequencies you are removing.
We make drivers.
Trending Topics
#8
Ok this can be improved upon, although its not entirely bogus.
BTW thats a 4ohm driver, it says so on the driver.
Measure the outside diameter with precision and I will help you out. Also verify that its an actual subwoofer. I dont think it is. It matters because we need to pick a driver that will cover the frequencies you are removing.
We make drivers.
BTW thats a 4ohm driver, it says so on the driver.
Measure the outside diameter with precision and I will help you out. Also verify that its an actual subwoofer. I dont think it is. It matters because we need to pick a driver that will cover the frequencies you are removing.
We make drivers.
#9
No but I suggest you keep it for convenience. Its not the weak link in the system.
The weakest link is the source- I will show you later how to improve that dramatically. I am working on a system for my fellow jag enthusiasts.
The driver I will suggest will be as efficient as the one you are taking out so you wont have a problem pushing it.
The weakest link is the source- I will show you later how to improve that dramatically. I am working on a system for my fellow jag enthusiasts.
The driver I will suggest will be as efficient as the one you are taking out so you wont have a problem pushing it.
#10
[QUOTE=Queen and Country;1463600]No but I suggest you keep it for convenience. Its not the weak link in the system.
The weakest link is the source- I will show you later how to improve that dramatically. I am working on a system for my fellow jag enthusiasts.
The driver I will suggest will be as efficient as the one you are taking out so you wont have a problem push
i definitely will be keeping it, i just wondered out of interest. as long as the driver is efficient, as you stated, it should be more than enough.
The weakest link is the source- I will show you later how to improve that dramatically. I am working on a system for my fellow jag enthusiasts.
The driver I will suggest will be as efficient as the one you are taking out so you wont have a problem push
i definitely will be keeping it, i just wondered out of interest. as long as the driver is efficient, as you stated, it should be more than enough.
#11
#12
not a stand alone sub, just the factory mid-range and amp combo in the pics above. all i'm trying to accomplish here, is to replace that OE/alpine speaker with a much better aftermarket one. nothing else.
#13
If you have a sub (mine does between the driver and passenger rear) than the requirements for the mids are much less- they dont need to produce low frequencies the sub does.
#15
That is a subwoofer, part of the Alpine premium audio Dolby ProLogic II option.
"Specifically designed and tuned for the new Jaguar XK, the heart of the system is a new digital amplifier that uses Dolby Pro Logic II technology to bring surround sound to stereo sources like a CD or FM radio. Complimenting the new amplifier is Alpine’s revolutionary DLP (dynamic linear phase) subwoofer. A radical departure from conventional designs, the DLP subwoofer is positioned in the passenger footwell, providing a better radiation of sound, more realistic front staging and accurately concentrated bass."
* 525 Watt Digital 5.1 amplifier, featuring Dolby Pro Logic II technology
* Four DDLinear mid-bass speakers
* Two soft dome tweeters
* One mid-bass speaker mounted in the dashboard
* One DLP subwoofer and enclosure mounted in the passenger footwell
"Specifically designed and tuned for the new Jaguar XK, the heart of the system is a new digital amplifier that uses Dolby Pro Logic II technology to bring surround sound to stereo sources like a CD or FM radio. Complimenting the new amplifier is Alpine’s revolutionary DLP (dynamic linear phase) subwoofer. A radical departure from conventional designs, the DLP subwoofer is positioned in the passenger footwell, providing a better radiation of sound, more realistic front staging and accurately concentrated bass."
* 525 Watt Digital 5.1 amplifier, featuring Dolby Pro Logic II technology
* Four DDLinear mid-bass speakers
* Two soft dome tweeters
* One mid-bass speaker mounted in the dashboard
* One DLP subwoofer and enclosure mounted in the passenger footwell
Last edited by jahummer; 05-18-2016 at 10:41 AM.
#16
#17
#18
What needs to be known is how high that driver is normally capable of playing. Most aftermarket subs do a terrible job of the high frequencies. Did I mention we make them.
#19
I doubt there is a crossover on it. There doesnt need to be, the driver itself is limited to what it can play. And being in the footwell will remove the high frequencies anyway.
What needs to be known is how high that driver is normally capable of playing. Most aftermarket subs do a terrible job of the high frequencies. Did I mention we make them.
What needs to be known is how high that driver is normally capable of playing. Most aftermarket subs do a terrible job of the high frequencies. Did I mention we make them.
Why do you think the MOST DSP lacks a crossover? Everything that I know about the design indicates the frequencies are properly filtered (I am searching for the documentation). You would not want low and mid frequencies going to the tweeters and the same the other way round. Alpine actually goes through a decent amount of engineering to produce digital amps, DSPs & drivers to provide the best end results. Their DDlinear drivers are incredibly efficient with very low distortion & extreme light weight.
And who is "we"? Inquiring minds want to know...
#20