So, I changed the alternator on my 2007 Jaguar XK convertible today. I could not find any instructions on line so I had to come up with my own procedure. First, disconnect the battery, then remove the charge wire and instrument wires from the alternator and then remove two bolts holding the alternator to the engine. Of course, remove serpentine belt from alternator pulley before removing the alternator mounting bolts. then locate floor jack under engine and apply light pressure. Remove engine mount from alternator side of engine. first the 4 bolts to the engine block, then the single bolt between engine rubber mount and bracket to engine block, then from the bottom remove the one nut that holds the rubber engine mount shock to the frame. remove bracket and rubber shock. now the alternator can be removed from the engine compartment. Of course the front wheels are on ramps for all of this activity since you will be laying under the car to perform all of this. Reverse actions to install new alternator. This is a painfully labor intensive process to change out the alternator. But, it works. I also had to remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine and remove the air intake hose to get access to the serpentine belt tensioner. Also had to remove the power steering oil reservoir in order to remove the air intake hose. Lots to disassemble in this process.

 

Welcome to the forum JagXK2007,

I've moved your thread from X100 to X150 forum. This is the place for posts about your model.

Graham

 

The procedure for removing and replacing the alternator on the X150 are detailed in the Workshop Manual, which is available from several vendors via the Internet.

 

I appreciate this is an old thread, but I have a 2007 Jaguar XKR and it has gone to the garage to have the alternator replaced. I'm being told it is a big job as they will need to "drop the suspension" to get access. In OP's description above, I don't see any reference to "dropping the suspension".

I'm concerned they are either:
1. Winding me up in preparation for a large bill.
2. Haven't done this before and so believe it is necessary to "drop the suspension" when maybe it isn't. (this is not a dealers).

Is it really necessary to "drop the suspension" to change the alternator on a 2007 Jaguar XKR (X150)? What exactly does "drop the suspension" mean?

Thanks.

 

I've never had to do it but the OP is right per the manual, and NB Cat also refers to the manual. Here are the specific instructions. Hope this helps. From the manual:

Generator - 4.2L SC V8 - AJV8 (86.10.02)

Removal

All vehicles

1 . Remove the cover and disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Specifications.

2 .WARNING: Do not work on or under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle on safety stands.

3 . Remove the accessory drive belt.
For additional information, refer to Accessory Drive Belt - 4.2L SC V8 - AJV8 (12.10.40)

4 . Remove the RH HO2S.
For additional information, refer to Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)

5 . Remove the RH engine mount.
For additional information, refer to Engine Mount RH (12.45.03)

Right-hand drive vehicles

6 . Disconnect the steering gear electrical connector.


All vehicles

7 . Release the battery positive cable from the body.
Release the 3 clips.

8 . Disconnect the ground cable from the transmission. Remove the bolt.


9 . Disconnect the generator electrical connectors. Release the cover.
Remove the nut.10 . Remove the generator.
Remove the nut.
Remove the nut and bolt.
Rotate the generator.



Installation

All vehicles


1 . Install the generator.
Tighten the nut to 25 Nm (18 lb.ft).
Tighten the nut and bolt to 40 Nm (30 lb.ft).

2 . Connect the generator electrical connectors. Tighten the nut to 12 Nm (9 lb.ft).
Secure the cover.

3 . Connect the ground cable.
Tighten the bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb.ft).

4 . Secure the battery positive cable. Attach the clips.All vehicles

6 . Install the RH engine mount.
For additional information, refer to Engine Mount RH (12.45.03)

7 . Install the RH HO2S.
For additional information, refer to Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)

8 . Install the accessory drive belt.
For additional information, refer to Accessory Drive Belt - 4.2L SC V8 - AJV8 (12.10.40)

9 . Connect the battery ground cable and install the cover. For additional information, refer to Specifications

 

Lets say you don't have a lift to support the engine and have to put a jack under it per the OP's post - would the oil sump be a good location?

I did that with the trans pan and a wood block but I'm more worried about the heavier engine and the oil sump being supported with just a jack.

 

I agree and would use one of these, though I haven't looked recently underneath for a place to put a jack and guys under theirs more often would have a better idea maybe. $80 @ Harbor Freight
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-l...bar-96524.html

 

I am attempting to replace the alternator/generator on my 2007 XKR. A couple of things are not clear to me.

1) I have not been able to locate the HO2S sensor. I have the manual and see the graphic but I can't make sense of the graphic. Can anyone give me detailed information about where it is located? Do I get to it from under the car or under the hood?

2) It is not clear to me how to remove the alternator after I unbolt it. Does it come out from under the car or under the hood? I am guessing from under the car but the instructions and the graphics in the manual are not very clear about these things.

Any help would be appreciated.

Biff

 

I replaced the alternator/generator on my 2007 XKR. The manual instructions and graphics leave a lot to be desired. It was difficult as access to one of the engine mount bolts and the top alternator/generator bolt was pretty difficult. There are several things the manual doesn't tell you.

You remove the motor mount for two reasons. First, I found this was needed to raise the engine in order to get reasonable access to some of the bolts (this was my original assumption). Second, you remove the motor mount because once the alternator/generator is disconnected, the only way to get it out is to pass it through the place the motor mount used to be.

I wasn't able to disconnect the connector plug until after I unbolted and dropped the alternator/generator. I couldn't access it in place. The manual suggested otherwise.

I never disconnected the oxygen sensor and some of the other things. I just disconnected anything that was in my way each step of the way.

Not a fun job. Not the worst.

 

I realize this is a very old thread, but it seems to be the place to talk about alternator changes. My alternator failed five days ago so I ordered a new one and it was delivered last Thursday. First, I want to thank my much younger brother for being available to help, he gets down and back up much better than I do and as such, did all the work under the car. We began removing the old one on Wednesday. Disconnected the negative cable from the battery, put the car up on jack stands and placed the hood in the service position. Next, we removed the drive belt, to my surprise, the square hole in the tensioning arm is 3/8 Inch rather than 1/2. Now he began removing the alternator cooling duct and the bottom mounting bolt and top mounting nut. Then the charging cable and wiring plug and finally the right-side motor mount. We used the floor jack and a 2X4 cut to run the full length of the oil pan. This is when we discovered the alternator was bound up in the mounting bracket and wouldn't swing out to remove it from the top mount stud. Nothing we could come up with would break it loose. It was now getting late in the evening and the wives were wanting to go to dinner, so we decided to break off and get a fresh start in the morning. (New alternator wouldn't be here until noon tomorrow anyway.) We got back to the job Thursday morning and after over an hour of prying, tapping and cussing, the alternator came loose, and we were able to remove it back through the space where the motor mount had been. The new alternator arrived, and we installed it much faster than we had removed the old one. I got under the car to check the tightness on all the bolts and nuts that had been removed. We finished up about thirty minutes later and she started up and ran smoothly. The write ups by JAGXK2007 and Biff Baxter were more than helpful during this process. I agree with them, it was difficult job but not the worst I have done. I replaced the S/C Snout last December, now that was a job.

 

Hey guys I have 2007 xk, it makes a weird, winning like sound when I started it and not charging light can on, does this mean I should replace my alternator too, I have checked the fuses f5 on rear compartment between rear seats ,and the 175 fuses as well, all were good, PLEASE ADVISE

 

There is no need to post twice.

 

To add some much later tips after replacing mine '07 NA 4.2.

1. Removing the appropriate wheel gave me much more light and space to work. I'd say removing the wheel is pretty much a requirement for a bit of comfort in a tight job.

1a: The tensioner requires a 3/8" wrench, preferably a long one. Working from the top, easiest to take off the tension, then remove the belt from the nearby upper power steering pump pulley. That'll give you slack to go back under the car and remove it from the alternator pulley. The tensioner latch pin hole was hard to reach.

2. I didn't need to remove the O2 sensors or any other wiring except the connections to the alternator. I was on left-drive car, so no need to fiddle with the steering knuckle. The alternator supply line has ears on it's connector; make sure the ears are properly inserted so the connector is perfectly flat against the copper post assembly when you replace the connector nut.

3. Removing the wheel made accessing the engine mount bolts much easier. Remember to reinsert all four bolts loosely and tighten them sequentially by hand so you don't crossthread them.

4. The bottom bolt slides out towards the front, and you need a crowbar to lightly rotate the tight fitting where the bolt was to to break it loose to the side.

5. Important: it's not obvious that the upper "bolt" isn't a bolt. After you remove the 15mm nut, it's a fixed hangar that you slide the alternator onto (off of), then push into place so you can push the lower bolt through the bracket.. Wasted time trying to find the other end of the upper "bolt" in the very tight location where it could barely be seen. The unit comes out by sliding it back, then rotating pulley down and it drops through.

6. It's very important that the battery be charged as much as possible before you start the car with the new alternator. Apparently a low battery will place a huge demand on the alternator as it first takes the load and may damage it. My alternator had a warning tag on it to that effect.

Good luck.