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Hey everyone... I haven't done a brake job in years. I have some upcoming time, and want to do all 4 wheels on my 2011 XK Base.
I've seen the instruction threads, so good there. A few questions :
1) Should I order any new sensors/clips/etc before starting ?
2) Anybody have a recommended bleed kit?
3) I am looking at Zimmerman Coat-Z rotors. Any other recommendations that won't break the bank?
4) Pad recommendations? I prefer a little bite, not too concerned about dust.
5) There was an old thread about replacing OEM lug nuts with something from Toyota if I remember? Does anyone know the correct size for 20" kalimnos wheels (2011 XK Base)?
6) I need to buy a new jack / stands. Harbor freight good enough for 1 or 2x a year use? Should I put the car up on 4 stands and do all wheels at once, or one at a time?
Anything else I missed or any other tips appreciated! - Thanks! Sean
Last edited by GGG; 09-27-2021 at 07:08 AM.
Reason: Add "RESOLVED" to thread title
Since the entire body structure of the X150 is aluminium, be sure to use the correct procedure and locations for a trolley jack and jack stands as shown in the Owner's Manual and Workshop Manual. Also use a block of wood or urethane cushion for the jack saddle and jack stand heads where they contact the bodywork.
Absolutely yes, replace the stock nuts with the Toyota nuts. Stock are complete garbage.|
You can search the X150 forum for lug nuts and find a good thread. Or, search Google, it'll probably direct you back into Jaguarforums anyway.
Thanks everyone, getting the parts ordered. Zimmerman rotors and brembo pads. I have 1 remaining question : I want to remove the calipers to paint them. What kind/size of bolt do i need to plug the line with after taking the caliper off?
A few inches of plastic cling wrap. There is no reason to plug that line with hardware, just a snug piece of plastic wrap. Just don't step on the brake pedal in the meantime.
Thanks Cee Jay! Ok this is the *final* question... hopefully! There are 4 bolts to remove to take off calipers. I think I need a 52mm bolt driver (not a socket), and possibly 7 or 9 mm hex driver (long). Can anyone confirm? Again these are standard callipers on 2011 xk.
Been a while since I did mine, can't remember the hex size for the pins but you sound like you are in the right range. The 52mm sounds way off, there is not a 2" bolt holding that carrier on! Wish I had the exact dimensions for you! Based on the 115nm torque requirement it leads me to believe 12mm but that sounds relatively small. I had to squeeze my breaker bar in the wheel well to get those carrier bolts off.
One piece of advice, take a real good look at how those springs are on the caliper, they are a pain to get back on. After you have done a couple you will be proficient.
Ok, I think the 6 point socket is T55 not 55mm... which is close to the 11.2mm close to what TampaMark said. I'll just get a set of long hex drivers covering 7,8,9, and 10mm. Thanks again everyone... I'll follow up with a list of parts and tools and photos when done.
I saw vsport answered you, to be honest I only did the fronts on my own. For the backs between the tool and e-brake service position stuff I held off. When I was at the dealer for another reason the service advisor told me he would install the ceramic pads I provided along with sensor for $200 or so on a labor charge. Thought that was a reasonable and paid for them to do the backs.
Hey Everyone.. thanks for the help! Brakes are done and looking /driving good. I'm not sure the cleaning/painting was worth it. It looks good now, but let's see how it holds up. The Zimmerman Coat Z rotors are fully zinc coated front and back, and in the vents. According to reviews I read, the zinc holds up well. You do not clean the coating off the rotors, just a few gentle stops cleans it off, leaving the outer lip coated. I wish I had a better brake bleeder. The Harbor Freight hand pump works, but it is not confidence inspiring... if I did brakes more often, i would get something better.
Tips for anyone doing this job :
The clips, especially the front are a pain. To get them on easier, use wire ties to hold in one side tight, then use another on the other side and tighten it as you compress it... prevents it from popping out. Then a good hit on the middle of the clip with rubber mallet to get it seated.
I hate using nylon wire ties, but they really make the job easier.
Breaker bar is your friend. Even though I didn't find a lot of rust, you need leverage for many of these bolts.
The front calipers are 2 parts. I undid the bolts, and only painted the front (non piston part) and pad carrier.
Caliper Rewind tool works great if you are turning it the right way. If it is not winding in quickly, you are turning it the wrong way (ask me how I know)
Caliper Rewind tool can be threaded into the front calipers as well, and included a free spinning disc that does not wind them... just pushes them in.
I didn't bother painting the rears... just used a wire brush drill bit to clean them up.
Cleaning the calipers with wire brushes/brake cleaner before painting was a real pain in the butt. There must be a better way (soaking in vinegar or solvent?)
Rotors/Pads :
2 x Front - C2C25337 - Zimmerman Z-Coat - $150
2x Rear - C2D26352 - Zimmerman Z - Coat - $112
Rear Brembo P59042N - $56
Front Brembo P36027N - $62
Misc Parts
Bosch ESI6-32N Brake Fluid - $14
Wear Sensor Front - AC Delco 18K2525 - $16
Wear Sensor Rear - AC Delco 18K2523 - $16
Lug Nuts (ebay) 20 Toyota Mag Seat Lug Nuts 12X1.5 21mm - $25
Tools
Caliper Wind Back Kit -https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0122Q83T4/ $21
Torx Drivers -
Cleaning the calipers with wire brushes/brake cleaner before painting was a real pain in the butt. There must be a better way (soaking in vinegar or solvent?)