Anybody tried EBC Redstuff brake pads
#1
#2
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I've been using them since about 2006.
I had them on my 2002 XKR, my wife's VDP, and I will be putting them on my 07 XKR when it needs new pads.
They stop really well, they do not squeal, and greatly reduce brake dust (for me). I have read others post and say they suck. This has not been my experience, and I have used at least 4 sets of redstuff pads over the years in different cars.
When I put them on my wife's VDP and she drove it for the first time she pressed on the brake pedal as she was used to and stopped fairly quickly. She had to adjust her use of the brakes.
I had them on my 2002 XKR, my wife's VDP, and I will be putting them on my 07 XKR when it needs new pads.
They stop really well, they do not squeal, and greatly reduce brake dust (for me). I have read others post and say they suck. This has not been my experience, and I have used at least 4 sets of redstuff pads over the years in different cars.
When I put them on my wife's VDP and she drove it for the first time she pressed on the brake pedal as she was used to and stopped fairly quickly. She had to adjust her use of the brakes.
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chazaroo (11-10-2011)
#4
#7
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I have them installed on my XF and they work pretty well. I installed them with cross drilled and slotted rotors. Unfortunately they do squeal and squeak pretty loud when driving in the city. Especially the rears. Hopefully this goes away soon after I break them in as I have only driven 600 miles but it is slightly annoying. Overall I like the feel of them, but wish they were alot more quiet.
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#8
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Used them on my Lexus IS350.... better than OEM is about all I can say. I wouldn't choose to go back unless they were my only option..... Which if your on a budget is about all there is.... Wish Hawk would get the XK on the list....grrrr
Personally, I'll get the Porterfield R4-S when its time...
Vince
Personally, I'll get the Porterfield R4-S when its time...
Vince
#9
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I installed them on my XF and think they're great. There was probably about a ~1K to 2K break in time where they were squealing, but once broken in they are no-noise and stop very well. Biggest upsides are much less dust and much longer life span. My factory breaks lasted to ~12K miles or so; the red stuffs have lasted so far ~15K miles and are still in good condition.
#10
#11
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Since you are in FL, go to Advance Auto. Buy their "Gold" level ceramic brake pads, pay less money, be perfectly satisfied and be done with it.![Icon Lol](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
This business of premium pricing, based solely on expensive add campaigns, will vacuum up your bank account and not give you a wit of extra performance.
There must be somebody who does objective testing of brake pads. Anybody have a web site to recommend?
![Icon Lol](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
This business of premium pricing, based solely on expensive add campaigns, will vacuum up your bank account and not give you a wit of extra performance.
There must be somebody who does objective testing of brake pads. Anybody have a web site to recommend?
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apost8n8 (11-17-2014)
#14
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GrtShrk (11-13-2014)
#15
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"Whats best" is an imposable question to answer without knowing your driving habits. There is no "One pad does it all" answer.
Some food for thought if I may...........
Friction coefficient, a number we love to toss about because we can all grasp "higher is better", is relative to only to the pads "optimal" temperature range, and that number declines the further up or down from that point your pad temps travel.
Modulation is more easily related to consistency of pedal pressure. When in the proper temperature range for a given pad, knowing "exactly" how much pressure to apply for "exactly" how long, is a sign of a quality compound doing "exactly" what it was formulated to do. If you find you have to add or back off peddle pressure in mid braking, then your pads are telling you something. Your are dropping off the pads optimum temperature curve, and having to compensate for it.
So now what you should see is a pad, with a temperature curve. Optimal at one point, but fades away on either side. Typical compounds actually broaden that "optimal" temp out a bit to give you a more flattened top to that curve(say +/- 100 degrees), but.... the drop off on either side tends to be sharper. Modulation works well in that flat spot.
My point?
We should buy pads looking at that flat topped curve.... If your an around town driver, low temp pads are your preference. An aggressive driver, or owner of a heavy vehicle (BTW the Jag IS a heavy vehicle) would bump the temp range up a bit to cover more of their needs. Track day cars obviously work at the high end of the scale and may even have a dedicated set of pads as it is nearly imposable to get a compound with that broad a temp range (they exist to a degree but come with high dust issues). What temp you run your pads should dictate what ones you buy. Pads that bite when cold, tend to fad quickly with aggressive driving. Pads that bite with glowing rotors tend to scare you backing out of your driveway on a frosty January morning.
Almost all OEM pads cater to the cold side, as general driving safety is their concern. If your an aggressive driver then you are not their problem and if you die they are confident your death certificate will be accompanied by some newspaper artical about your high speed antics... Legal issues resolve...
Pads like EBC Redstuff take that curve and move it up the temp scale. Not by a lot (because yes, they still fade like a son of a gun on aggressive drives), but enough to help some drivers fine-tune the temp range to their driving habits. Folks down South can easily move upscale without issues and may in fact be hurting yourself with cold OEM temp pads. Those in the North may want to ponder it a bit more.
Keep in mind that regardless of your choice, it really isn't just the pads that stop you. Monster gripping brakes when mated to 100,000 mile (ie hard rubber) tires are a waste of time and money. It's ALWAYS your tire that has the final say in how fast you stop.
my
Vince
Some food for thought if I may...........
Friction coefficient, a number we love to toss about because we can all grasp "higher is better", is relative to only to the pads "optimal" temperature range, and that number declines the further up or down from that point your pad temps travel.
Modulation is more easily related to consistency of pedal pressure. When in the proper temperature range for a given pad, knowing "exactly" how much pressure to apply for "exactly" how long, is a sign of a quality compound doing "exactly" what it was formulated to do. If you find you have to add or back off peddle pressure in mid braking, then your pads are telling you something. Your are dropping off the pads optimum temperature curve, and having to compensate for it.
So now what you should see is a pad, with a temperature curve. Optimal at one point, but fades away on either side. Typical compounds actually broaden that "optimal" temp out a bit to give you a more flattened top to that curve(say +/- 100 degrees), but.... the drop off on either side tends to be sharper. Modulation works well in that flat spot.
My point?
We should buy pads looking at that flat topped curve.... If your an around town driver, low temp pads are your preference. An aggressive driver, or owner of a heavy vehicle (BTW the Jag IS a heavy vehicle) would bump the temp range up a bit to cover more of their needs. Track day cars obviously work at the high end of the scale and may even have a dedicated set of pads as it is nearly imposable to get a compound with that broad a temp range (they exist to a degree but come with high dust issues). What temp you run your pads should dictate what ones you buy. Pads that bite when cold, tend to fad quickly with aggressive driving. Pads that bite with glowing rotors tend to scare you backing out of your driveway on a frosty January morning.
Almost all OEM pads cater to the cold side, as general driving safety is their concern. If your an aggressive driver then you are not their problem and if you die they are confident your death certificate will be accompanied by some newspaper artical about your high speed antics... Legal issues resolve...
Pads like EBC Redstuff take that curve and move it up the temp scale. Not by a lot (because yes, they still fade like a son of a gun on aggressive drives), but enough to help some drivers fine-tune the temp range to their driving habits. Folks down South can easily move upscale without issues and may in fact be hurting yourself with cold OEM temp pads. Those in the North may want to ponder it a bit more.
Keep in mind that regardless of your choice, it really isn't just the pads that stop you. Monster gripping brakes when mated to 100,000 mile (ie hard rubber) tires are a waste of time and money. It's ALWAYS your tire that has the final say in how fast you stop.
my
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Vince
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Last edited by CleverName; 05-04-2012 at 11:13 AM.
#16
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#19
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I used the yellow stuff pads on my 97 with no squeaking. Found them to be an incredibly quiet and quick stopping pad. Didn't go red on that one but maybe I will on the 07. Great pads, use them on the wife's charger too.
EBC yellow stuff with the dimpled and slotted EBC rotors. As far as cleanliness goes, they still get dirty in the front but less than the jag pads.
I know my current setup squeaks, not sure if it's stock or not but they look new so when they go, EBC here I come.
EBC yellow stuff with the dimpled and slotted EBC rotors. As far as cleanliness goes, they still get dirty in the front but less than the jag pads.
I know my current setup squeaks, not sure if it's stock or not but they look new so when they go, EBC here I come.
#20
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I have had good experience with ebec reds and greens . I have also had good experience with akebono ceramic pads. When the time comes I'll look for a ceramic replacement because I don't want to put up with the black brake dust. Also being a local around town drive with some highway driving I can use a softer compound pad. As for brake squeal my understanding is the cause is vibration between the pad backer plate and the caliper piston. If you have metal to metal without either a bonding agent or brake grease you will get squeal. It has nothing to do with whether the brakes are working good or not. Most of the newer pads have a backer "shim" which is usually non-metallic. This acts as an insulator and prevents the squeal. My advice is to do your homework and determine how you drive and what type of pad you need.