Greetings,

A few years ago I had a 2007 XK with several battery problems. I learned how to correct the problems by reading about similar issues on this forum. Basically, I purchased a CTEK battery maintainer, installed it in my garage and used it every time I drove the XK back in the garage from a trip. I also learned to lock the vehicle while parked in the garage.

I will soon own a 2013 XK and wondered if it would be advisable to do the same for this newer model XK?

Thank you all for your help with these issues.

Jagjeep

 

Exactly the same. Keep your battery topped up and the car locked and you won’t go far wrong.

 

One very important difference between the 4.2L and 5.0L models: You can safely attach the CTEK pigtails directly to the positive and negative battery terminals on the 4.2L models. However, because the 5.0L models use a Battery Monitoring System module that is attached to the negative battery terminal,you must never attach the negative CTEK pigtail directly to the negative battery terminal! Doing so will damage that module. So, always attach the negative pigtail to a chassis ground.

There are lots of threads about various ways to do this, including using the remote battery terminals.

 

Plus if you have the torque pro app (or Cabrio Bob's ashtray display unit) fitted, you'll be able to keep an eye on battery voltage as you drive.

When mine drops below 13.5 whilst driving I know it's due for a plug in

But typically, if temps are dropping into single figures I ensure mine's charged on my CTEK weekly and given a reconditioning charge monthly.

That regime has never failed me for almost 20yrs

PS: Remember that the 5.0 shouldnt have the negative directively connected to the battery negative...as it can be on the 4.2

 

Thank you Jim for your helpful response today.
Jagjeep






t

 

Thank you Stuart for this information. Since my previous battery install was for a 2007 XK, it appears I would have given myself a lot of unwanted problems if I installed the CTEK maintainer the same way for our 2013 XK.
It just occurred to me to ask if the CTEK Multi US 3300 (purchased in 3/2018) I used for the older XK can be used for the 2013 model. Hopefully, it can be used for both Jags.
Thanks again.
Jagjeep

 

Thank you for this most helpful information.

Jagjeep

 

The CTEK 3300 can be used with all Jaguars, including the 4.2L and 5.0L X150 models. Just make sure that for the 5.0L you attach the negative battery pigtail to a chassis ground and not directly to the battery negative terminal.

 

Will do Steward and thanks again for keeping me from making what could have been a costly mistake.

Jagjeep

 

I seem to recall that the 5.0 charging system works differently then the 4.2 cars. I believe it cycles at different times and will let the battery run down to below 12.6 v. This is controlled by the voltage monitor on the neg. lead of the battery. It is the desulfied stage so at times you will get readings below 13.5 v . This is normal . As for the OP if the battery is the OEM then have it replaced with a fully charged one as it would be 7 years old. 1st check the standing cold voltage . It should be 12.6 v or better. If not charge or replace.

 

Jagjeep,

You already made a costly mistake. But don't worry about it, because I'm sure it was unintentional.



Stuart

 

Not to take away from the purpose of this threat but BMS is a pointless joke. Never had a battery issue with the X150 4.2 (or any other Jaguar), even with just starting on CTEK about 5 years ago and only occasional road use. But with a 2015, I'm on my 4th AGM battery. Well, the first 3 along with the BMS system were replaced in the first 2 years on warranty and the last one made it just 3 years even with 20K per year of driving and occasional CTEK plug in for top off.

 

I bought my 07 XK a few weeks ago, and followed all the good advice in this thread, and in many others, about battery care. I bought a new battery, fully charged, a couple of weeks ago, the old battery showing signs of collapse. I also bought a CTEK MXS 5.0 maintainer and I keep the battery on the CTEK whenever in the garage. I wired the CTEK Comfort Connect positive lead to the positive battery terminal and the negative lead to the chassis ground point. The maintainer's charge status lights seem to indicate that the battery is or after the requisite interval becomes fully charged. But...

Yesterday, I was preparing to pull the car out the garage to do some minor work on the interior. I disconnected the CTEK, climbed in, depressed the brake and hit the start button. The instrument display lit up momentarily, then click, then nothing. The LCD panel showed a fault for no cruise control. I tried again. This time, nothing at all - no crank, no click, no display. I got out, reconnected the CTEK - no change. The CTEK charge status lights were completely off, which I took to mean the circuit from CTEK to battery was open. The car seemed to have gone into brick mode. Pucker time. I removed the trunk floor and panel to expose the battery, and starting checking the wiring. Almost at once, the car came to life - courtesy lights came on, radio came on, open door warning started. Ok, I thought. Tried to start the car again, same thing. I disconnected the CTEK, reconnected and got one battery charge light on. That's good I thought. I left the CTEK charging for a couple of hours. It then showed 4 lights, meaning I could try to start the car. This time, success.

I've left the car on the maintainer overnight and it's now showing 7-lights - battery fully charged.

Anyone have a thought as to what happened?

 

Sounds like a loose connection somewhere if, when you touched it, it sprang into life.

 

Yeah, I think so too. So, you ask, why haven't I checked that? Will do today.

 

I checked the battery terminal connections and the connection for the leads from the CTEK. All are tight. The search will have to continue. Any thoughts other than a loose connection somewhere?

 

Time to continuity check the CTEK cables themselves. I have seen reports of CTEK cables breaking down and therefore give intermittent operations.

 

Great idea. The CTEK cables are only a couple of weeks old, but there could be a manufacturing defect.

My multimeter just crapped out - seems to be the week for things to bust. I will have to get a new one with a continuity test function. Will report.

 

Because you have a 4.2L, try this:
1. Disconnect your CTEK from the battery and existing ground.
2. Using the CTEK alligator clips, connect the positive pigtail to the positive remote battery terminal under the plastic cover on the left side of the trunk. Then connect the negative pigtail to a chassis ground. Plug the CTEK into a wall socket and see if it works. If it works, let it charge the battery until the light turns green. I believe that's Step 7. (I've had my maintainer attached to the remote battery terminals with alligator clips for many years with no problems.)
3. Disconnect the CTEK power from the pigtail quick connect and close the trunk.
4. Start the car, but press the START button BEFORE you step on the brake pedal. A light tap on the brake should be all that's necessary. Do not pump the brake pedal, as that will make it harder to start. Yes, I know that's the opposite of what the Owner's Handbook says, but trust me, it works.

If you don't have any problems, odds are that your eyelet pigtail is defective. You can test the continuity of each wire in that pigtail with a multimeter set on ohms (resistance). A broken wire won't give a readout. You should be able to get a free replacement pigtail under warranty.

Good luck, and let us know if that helped.

 

Stuart, another great idea, and your instructions are so detailed and clear even I should be able to follow them! Picking up the new multimeter later today and will let you all know what I find.