Battery PSU for while programming etc
#1
Battery PSU for while programming etc
Can anyone recommend an "affordable" supply unit to connect to a 5.0 XKR to allow programming etc.? I believe 40A is recommended for my car. I'm in the UK, so looking for products readily available here. There's a CTEK product - the PRO25S - which only provides 25A and is about £280.
I also assume that such a device would allow leisurely detailing of the interior with the doors open without flattening the battery, which would be a bonus.
I also assume that such a device would allow leisurely detailing of the interior with the doors open without flattening the battery, which would be a bonus.
#2
Think "something that provides power" instead of "power supply". All you need is a battery charger that has 40 amps, not some fancy electronic contraption with voltage leveling and an oscilloscope.
I use a charger similar to this, since mine is several years old. It's worked flawlessly.
I use a charger similar to this, since mine is several years old. It's worked flawlessly.
Last edited by Cee Jay; 06-14-2024 at 09:04 AM.
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#3
Think "something that provides power" instead of "power supply". All you need is a battery charger that has 40 amps, not some fancy electronic contraption with voltage leveling and an oscilloscope.
I use a charger similar to this, since mine is several years old. It's worked flawlessly.
I use a charger similar to this, since mine is several years old. It's worked flawlessly.
So, essentially you're saying that there's no special requirement in terms of smooth/regulated voltage etc and all that matters is power - and it won't muck up the electronics in the car.
#4
#5
The battery will act as a filter to make the power 100% compatible with the car's electronics. I'd not recommend running the electronics in the car WITHOUT a battery installed though. I'd probably work, but the bus systems may not like it. Battery chargers are pretty 'noisy' when it comes to a smooth signal. The battery will flatten out any extra waves.
#6
The battery will act as a filter to make the power 100% compatible with the car's electronics. I'd not recommend running the electronics in the car WITHOUT a battery installed though. I'd probably work, but the bus systems may not like it. Battery chargers are pretty 'noisy' when it comes to a smooth signal. The battery will flatten out any extra waves.
As of right now this minute all I need to do is reset the BMS when I put a new battery in this weekend, and I can do that without any electrical 'assistance' I hope. But I will have more diagnostics/programming I want to do in the future. (And I also really fancy the idea of being able to have the doors open for as long as I like when I'm cleaning.)
#7
Justin, just open you door and use a screwdriver to flip the latch on the door to the closed position. Then press "lock" on the key fob and your car thinks the door is closed. No need for battery support. I do this each time I clean. When done, just press "unlock" on the fob and the door latch will return to normal, or use the screwdriver again:-)
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#8
Justin, just open you door and use a screwdriver to flip the latch on the door to the closed position. Then press "lock" on the key fob and your car thinks the door is closed. No need for battery support. I do this each time I clean. When done, just press "unlock" on the fob and the door latch will return to normal, or use the screwdriver again:-)
#9
There's some misinformation here. The suggestions made are fine for leaving the doors open and reading diagnostics, but you mention programming. IF you're doing any significant module writing or CCF editing, you must use the proper type of power supply or modules could get corrupted. The cost for one of these isn't that bad considering. I've got the 55amp of one of these.
https://powermaxconverters.com/product/pm4-series-2/
https://powermaxconverters.com/product/pm4-series-2/
#10
There's some misinformation here. The suggestions made are fine for leaving the doors open and reading diagnostics, but you mention programming. IF you're doing any significant module writing or CCF editing, you must use the proper type of power supply or modules could get corrupted. The cost for one of these isn't that bad considering. I've got the 55amp of one of these.
https://powermaxconverters.com/product/pm4-series-2/
https://powermaxconverters.com/product/pm4-series-2/
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jahummer (06-14-2024)
#11
Yes, the title of this thread says for programming so I wanted to be certain in that type of usage, the type of power supply matters. This isn't unique to Jags either, all manufacturer's advise the use of the same type of power supply. Engineers wouldn't advise it if the risk to brick modules wasn't there.
#12
#13
I agree - I hate all those 'one job tools'. On the other hand, I totally get the concept of needing a highly regulated supply to protect the process when programming.
#14
I have just ordered a Sealey SPBC40 40A Battery Support Unit. List price £479; I paid £313.
I know it must be really good because it has the word "Premier" printed on it.
Ironically, it also does everything my recently-purchased CTEK MXS 5.0 does, so I might return that while I still can.
I know it must be really good because it has the word "Premier" printed on it.
Ironically, it also does everything my recently-purchased CTEK MXS 5.0 does, so I might return that while I still can.
#15
I would have gone with something that has low ripple/noise. The recommended brand (Midtronics) is not used for charging a vehicle.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19571968435...P38JJGQGJ7PP4K
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19571968435...P38JJGQGJ7PP4K
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jahummer (06-16-2024)
#16
#17
So, having discovered that the proper term for what workshops, ECU re-mappers etc plug up is "Battery Support Unit" I limited my search to products advertised as being for that specific purpose.
In any case, the battery itself is going to remain connected, no? Doesn't that provide the necessary smoothing?
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Cee Jay (06-15-2024)
#18
I would have gone with something that has low ripple/noise. The recommended brand (Midtronics) is not used for charging a vehicle.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19571968435...P38JJGQGJ7PP4K
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19571968435...P38JJGQGJ7PP4K
https://moonrakeronline.com/sharman-...c-power-supply
#19
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McJag222 (06-19-2024)
#20
@XKDreams The current draw for module programming's quite higher than that which's why the engineers at JLR advise at least 55amps