Hello all,

When I bought my 2011 xk, the dealer I bought it from had replaced the brakes the day before I got there as the brake sensor popped on at the last minute. The brakes have about it 1300 miles on them, mostly highway driving.

They replaced the sensors and pads with jaguar parts bought from the local jag dealer, but they turned the rotors.

After they did the replacement, they test drove the vehicle and the brakes were majorly juddering, so they did some research and realized they over torqued the nuts. They re-torqued to 92ft/lbs per spec and the biggest bits of the judder went away, but at highway speeds, the steering wheel is still bouncing around when I brake. It is easily controlled by holding the wheel and it isn't vibrating my arm or anything, but it is still annoying.

My question is this, could they have screwed up the turning of the rotors (never done it, I usually replace if needed)? Could they have permanently warped the rotors by over torqueing the wheels? I will be rechecking the torque myself, but I trust when they said they caught and fixed the issue, so I assume the wheels are on properly now

Should I just replace the rotors?

Thanks in advance for the suggestions/thoughts!

 

Yes. Your rotors are junk. I had the same problem and it will never go away until you replace the rotors.

 

I figured they were screwed, just though I would check! Any rotor recommendation? Is OEM the best? I wouldn't mind getting some different ones that looked better. Don't plan on tracking the car, just good spirited fun

Thanks!

 

Can be a variety of causes, including proper bed-in of the pads, issue with the rotor surface, wheels or possibly worn suspension bushes. Since they turned your rotors, I would start with new ones from Rock Auto or the like or even your local auto parts store. I would go to a good tire shop with proper balancing equipment and have the wheels checked for hop, straightness and balance and have the lugs torqued correctly and in proper sequence. While the wheels are off, check the suspension bushes. You may also consider having them check the rear wheels as well while you are there.

 

Centric makes decent rotors

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...hub,rotor,1896

 

I had exactly the same issue with my rotors, and it drove me nuts. They were relatively new aftermarket rotors and even after machining 4 times the shimmying vibration continued. About six months ago, I couldn't stand it any longer and ordered rotors and brake pads from R1 Concepts. They are smooth as silk, beautiful to look at (drilled and slotted), a direct fit replacement, and relatively inexpensive at $504/set of fronts and rears. And their customer service was terrific with knowledgeable people answering questions. So far, after about 6 months, highly recommended. When I get home later, I'll take a picture and post it so you can see them on the car. I also find they don't show any rust like my previous ones did. Good product!

 

Interesting product, heard of them but no experience. Their premium R1 GEOMET Carbon drilled/slotted 4-rotor package was quoted at only $376 with free shipping for the 2008 with Alcon brakes 400mm front/350mm rear. For the 2011 however they only list their economy rotors at $160 with free shipping for a set of 4.

 

Im using r1 front rotors ecoline ,have slight shaking atbraking. Suspecting the rotors to be the issue. I did however get a free replacement from r1 concept but not sure if I want to put them on , afraid I might have the same problem. Which ones did you get Eco?

 

Marc
I didn’t think anyone turned rotors anymore as they are pretty cheap nowadays. Plus you have made the thickness even less which makes it more prone to warping down the road.
Could there be some contamination or rust on the rotor to hub surface so the rotor doesn’t sit square? I always wire brush that mating surface thoroughly before reassembly.
My vote is move on to new rotors and reuse the nearly new pads. Maybe the dealer will spring for them as they never resolved the problem they were supposed to fix.
I have had good luck with power stop from Amazon on other cars but the forum may have other Jag specific recommendations.
Mike

 

The rotors I ordered from R1 Concepts were the Geomat Performance Drilled and Slotted Rotors whose link is attached below. When I checked yesterday, it was $504.00 per set of fronts and rears. Also below, a picture of them on my front wheels (yes I know they're dirty but I just cleaned them the day before yesterday).

Jaguar 2010 Xkr Brake Rotors & Pads | R1 Carbon GEOMET® Series | R1concepts

 

I have been having front brake shudder for years! The shudder is while braking at all speeds.
It reduces a bit when I pump the brakes at idle but still comes back. This is why I am thinking it is the rotos.

The dealer had replaced the pads and rotors twice and the shudder came back soon after.
A few months ago, I had installed after market rebuilt calipers and the shudder went away for a few months but it now came back.
The after market calipers look rusted when viewed through the wheels.
I have replaced the rotors also with after market slotted rotors - along with the calipers and brake pads. I guess I can check if there is a rotor warp but seems unlikely. If I have the car opened for checking rotors, might as well replace parts, including calipers.
Should I replace the calipers again? If so, from whom?
Hesitant to spend $500/ea on new OEM. Are there any aftermarket new calipers?
Any suggestions for a good rebuilt calipers which wont show rust?
I guess I am going to try greasing caliper pins but I dont want to have to do that every few months, do I? Do OEM calipers work better? I hope there is a good after market or rebuilt caliper - did any of you find a good source?

2013 xjl 3.0l portfolio, 100k miles

 

So you’ve replaced pads and rotors multiple times and even calipers
and the issue persists? You also mention there was a delay after each replacement
before the judder returned?

Unlikely 3-4 sets of rotors are “warped” either it’s pad material building up on the rotor surface based on either type of pad material or the way you brake or you’ve a suspension issue somewhere. At 100k miles and nearly 10 years of age, if no one’s inspected hubs, links, rods, bars, mounts, bushes etc it’s most likely the cause and needs some attention.

 

Interesting observation. I have had this problem for about 3+ years! Next week, I am going to have the calipers "lubed" to see if that helps. If that helps, I have to assume it is the calipers, yes? When I put in these rebuilt calipers, I thought the problem went away for more than a month. Does the fact that the problem went away temporarily imply that the rebuilt calipers are at fault?
Thanks.

 

Calipers aren’t the first thing I’d think of. Unless the pistons aren’t extending or retracting correctly. And you said you had the same issue prior to replacement. Calipers don’t typically fail unless the boots get damaged and water gets inside inducing rust formation. Are they submerged in water frequently or exposed to a lot of salt?

As I mentioned if you’ve not serviced the suspension after 100k miles it’s quite common for these components to need replacing after 50k miles or 5 years or in the very least inspected for wear and play.

 

Yes, worn bushings won’t help... and don’t overlook the sway bar bushings!
Neither will cheap pads nor cheap rotors. Do you feel the pulsing in the wheel as well as the pedal? And I’ve had better “feel” with changing the brake fluid, which is done every 2 years.

 

I have to agree with you.. It has got to be the bushings.
I changed the calipers again (the Centrix calipers from Rock auto, rusted in a year and i could see the unsightly rust!). The rotors looked fine. The shudder continues - mostly at highway speeds. So, as you wrote, I assume the shudder is from a suspension issue.
Anyone fixed the brake shudder by fixing a any particular suspension component or any particular set of bushings? Just wondering what to look for.
The caliper replacement was done at my own place.. so, we didn't have the car up on a rack yet..

 

Frankly, If you want the car to handle like as when she was new, replace the worn parts with oem parts.
Any mechanic can demonstrate the worn bushings with a crowbar for you. And there’s a reason Lemforder (the Original Equipment Manufacturer) offers the bushings coupled to the small arms.

On a few occasions I’ve tried aftermarket parts including tie rod ends, wishbones, discs, pads, etc. They have never lasted as long. And as far as aftermarket brakes are concerned… sure, less brake dust… but the stopping performance also took a step backwards, too. I’m not doing that again unless there is no option.