If the hose is pushed loose, then the water will just drain all over the floorwell, just like Jaguar intended!

 

This thought crossed my mind also, but it didn't seem nearly as funny as your version.

 

As a certified Jaguar Tech, your input is important and sheds a prespective of a professional vs. us amateurs. It is important that we all keep in mind there is the professional and proper way to complete repairs and the DIY repairs. Most important and in the fore front, I have to assume most owners will look at the economics of any repair from the professional vs DIY. What might be savings in the short haul, may be costly in the long run.

If the AC drain is done properly as DIY as mentioned above, it does look like an easy fix. But then again, the Jaguar fix is the 100% proper fix.

So far I have no worry's as the drain works good, but with my luck, the problem could start any day. Then, what to do?

 

To be fair, this problem is not limited to Jaguars. I had the same drain problems with a Lexus LS400 I had a while back.

Coincidentally, poking it from underneath, I popped the drain tube out of its place and over the next month, water drained into the passenger footwell. That took forever to dry out, because the Lexus had soooo much sound deadening material!

Of course, with most cars you don't have to take the dash out to get to this tube...

 

Put $1,100 cash in one hand and a plastic tube in the other. Then decide.

 

But it's a slippery slope. You start with the DIY plastic tubing A/C drain solution, and the next thing you know you're patching up your convertible top with gaffer's tape!

 

...but if you park with the patched up side of the roof facing the trailer home, nobody will see it.

 

and I never liked Jaguars original fix either of replacing the drain with THE SAME UNCHANGED PART! Hello the problem WAS the DESIGN closed duck bill. You try the same thing and yet you expect a differant result! Really, thats the definition of insanity. Like I said I have to look at the LONGEVITY of a repair too. My solution is to drop the back of the trans and exhaust and slide my arm up the side of the trans with a pair of short electricians (stiff) and with 2 fingers in the scissors clip the end of the drain off. Problem fixed for good now. Of course it took awhile for those pesky part engineers to redesign the drain to now be a OPEN ended tube. Would have been nice if they would have just left the openings accessable under the car like most for cleaning. But that would be TOO Easy huh
Side Note, You cannot do this on the super charged cars without risking breaking off the EGR coolant ports when the trans tilts. So you have to remove the throttle body and EGR to prevent damage. FYI

 

Brutal, where the heck does the drain come out of the HVAC unit? The workshop manual barely mentions the bloody thing in passing - they don't even tell you to disconnect it when removing the unit. Just wondering if the other end of the thing was any easier to get at...

 

What did Jaguar do to redesign the a/c drain lines for the 2010+ XK models?

 

Hvac drain comes out center of trans tunnel on top of trans tunnel. Seals against rubber drain tube. No access from top inside car. Trust me we have tried. And you also risk dislodging it and then the hvac case has to come out to reseat. Then in the body of the car over the trans is a metal cavity the drain is enclosed in. You can see if you use a bore scope or drop the back of the trans down.

The redesign was to cut half the duck bill end of the tube off so it wont ever stick together and stop drainng. This is the new tube style from parts and in the newer cars. Basically the mod i have done for years.
Sorry could be better shown with pics

 

Brutal. I fully agree with your concern of doing more damage than good .So about giving us some advice to some of us that like to work on our own cars who are willing to EXCEPT RESPONTILABTY ,maybe you could advice no, suggest the best place to insert the drain and if the evaporator is above this point, how much space is there, and how thick is the plastic casing for drill debt also the best place to exit the hose. I realize this is against your principles but I'm sure many are going to do this . I will be doing this as soon as my hoist is free. I have another project on it at the moment. Bernie

 

Ohhh, one of those 'clever' engineering solutions that turns a simple thing like a drain tube into a bloody nightmare. Someone forgot the KISS principle...

 

its a good choice and dont mean to fault it, But when I talk to people I realize that what I know and consider easy others have no clue or are not "EXPERIANCED" in the possiblities. been there done that. EXPERIANCE=SOMETHING YOU JUST LEARNED 5 SECONDS AFTER YOU NEEDED IT.
You know like drilling into the evap case(not as described here, he went in the duct) and having the drill pull in and go into the core. Things that many take for granted, others have no idea. And Im not pissing on parades. While it is a decent choice, its not one I would do for reasons stated. I have access to lifts and know a better alternative(for me). and the case is about a 1/16" to maybe a 1/8 in areas like corners or stressed areas. I would almost rether see a wand made to go up around the trans hooked to a air blower and blast the crap out of the drain. but again, hard to show pics, AND unless you modify the drain you will be back at GO not collecting $200 eventually

 

Brutal . .I compleatley understand your position and that is why I am asking Q. first , What is your thoughts on using the duct,? is there anything in there that would cause a problem , any help on this would be appreciated to help others with this install. Bernie

 

Several things i would want to try in addition and one already posted on forum. Close and vents, turn blower on high and the air has to go somewhere. People have reported it has worked in a pinch. But of course not permanent fix. Another would be using a evap spray in cleaner that may clean the gummyness in the drain as well as box and evap. Avail at home depot, lowes etc. See it everytime im in there(daily right now as im remodeling house with granite counters, tile backsplash etc to sell in a month) acess the side of the evap through duct shown with glove box out. The drain in the duct can always act as a backup drain just like home ac systems have a twin drain system. Main drain into house waste vent stack, and backup is a pipe to the outside of house. Sooo for any of you that see water coming out of this drain you have a problem. The main drain is plugged and going into drip tray and out the external backup drain. Your tray will rust and clog then the ceinling under the ac unit in the attic will come down....learned from the 5 second experiance thingy

 

Brutal,
I have a question for you. Since my 07 has burned up it's second blower motor relay due to water backing up in the housing, I am wanting to fix this right. Do you have to pull the driveshaft or will the trans drop down enough without doing that? I understand where it's at and that I will have to snip the end off. I'm just curious if I can do so without taking out the driveshaft. Thank you Sir.

 

Re drilling into something - if you slip a tube over the drill bit and set the bit to protrude just enough to penetrate what you are drilling you have a cheap easy solution to breaking through and damaging anything behind.

 

just buying a 2007 xkr, contacted past owner who told me it had a a/c issue a while ago, he spent 950 euros to fix, was done by dealer, saw all reciepts, regased, new condensor, had to be dried out, he said a pipe came off. All sorted now, or is it.Am worried am i buying a problem, will it happen again, should i put the pipe in as in pictures, should i not buy, its a beautiful car

 

The blocked drain doesn't affect every car; I suspect regular use helps, because there's less chance of the duckbill getting stuck together. Some of the guys on here lay their cars up for winter, so the a/c doesn't get any use for a few months. And the "close all vents, put blower on full blast" trick to pressurise the system and blow the duckbill open is probably a sensible regular preventative measure.