dont know to buy the 2007 xkr i was looking at after reading about a/c leak, car i looked at had reciepts in glove box of fixed issue, dried water from car, regased, new condensor, talked to previous owner he said somthing about a tube, fixed by dealer, will it happen again, willi have to fit pipe as in thread

 

ok, so the car is 07 and this happend in2013, should be ok now or does it it take time to happen, can allways do the modified tube, the car i was looking at is beautyfull and looks well in black, had a 4500 upgrade exhaust, sounds amazing, even nicer than a xkrs, it would be a pity not to buy, do you think its not an issue to stop sale

 

If they fitted the modified duckbill last year, it shouldn't happen again. If they didn't, it might happen - but then again, you might get struck by lighting. I don't think the car is any more likely to have this problem just because it had a/c issues which were fixed. And there is the option of the fix described in this thread, if you don't want to replace the duckbill.

If the car has a decent service history, looks in good condition, and ticks all the boxes for features you want, then go ahead. You can spend a lot of time worrying about what might be wrong with a car, but most people have no major issues (remember, no-one posts on a forum about how their car is 100% trouble free - they come here if they have problems).

 

thanks for you advice, i suppose your right in what you say, no point worrying could get trouble from any car, i think it's full steam ahead

 

Hi Denver,
Have you had a chance yet to see if water has drained via this new by-pass you created yet? I ask because with my XK I did almost the exact procedure you did via Hawaii's pictures and tips yesterday. (Your shots were awesome by the way) unfortunately today after driving 30 minutes to my brother's house, after the car sat for 3 hours, I saw the same &@$"! Drip pattern in the carpet that motivated me to do this in the first place..I have already lost one blower motor and control module to this problem. I ran into the same challenges you did with drilling into the box, where you drilled to the right, toward the blower, I went two squares to the left. For the floor I first jacked the right front of the car up to scout and measure. From where you drilled, I found an indentation, rectangular valley further to the right and south of where you drilled.....Anyway, next weekend I will take the sound deadening material off and run the ac for a while and look for leaks during and after I shut off the engine.

 

Hey Stu,
We have not had enough warm weather in Denver to use the A/C much. We also have very low humidity here, so it may take a while for me to check it out. I am surprised you are still having the problem. Hawaii said he is seeing drainage through the new hose, and he has a high humidity climate. I will post as soon as I know.

 

hi, all, just have my first week over with my new purchase, a 2007 xkr, traded my 04 model, which never let me down, saw in previous history pass owner got a/c fixed and pipe, not sure if upgrade, well i have the a/c on and there is the water dripping under the car, so it is working, hopefully will continue. Will put some pics up when it stops raining. Made a few changes like chrome boot finisher, chrome mirrors, side vents and fitted 20'' rs futura deep dish rims, past owner fitted a complete upgrade exhaust system, sounds like a xkrs,how do upload a large picture from my computer.

 

Posting pics:

• Click the "Go Advanced" button below the Quick Reply box (gives you lots more editing functions)
• In the Advanced interface, click the paperclip icon to open the Manage Attachments window
• In the Manage Attachments window, click the Choose File button & select the image file.
• Click the Upload button - the window will show the filename when the upload is complete
• Repeat the last 2 steps for each image; when you're done, close the Manage Attachments window
• Write your message in the Advanced text box
• Whenever you want to insert one of your images into the text box, click the small downwards triangle next to the paperclip icon
• You will see a list of the image files you uploaded - click the one you want to insert

 

Stu
I put my drain right on the evaporator box, where as you guys put the drain in the passage way leading to the blower motor. The evaporator box will fill with water first, then when you make left turns (left hand drive cars) the excess will slosh through the passage way towards the control module (that's in the passage way) then onto the blower motor. Then drip out the blower motor and eventually burning out the motor. Both very easy to get to luckily.
Was wondering how much you paid for the control module and blower motor parts? Since mine got wet it may need replacement in the future.

 

Hi Denver,
Thank you for your reply regarding the placement of your drain tap vs. the placement of mine. I was a bit concerned with drilling directly under the evaporator. I may plug and relocate after I have experimented a bit more with mine. To your question back regarding cost of new blower motor ($314) and new control Module ($226). I have come to know my dealer's parts guy really well and he does show me his cost. He told me that the Control Module for the 2007 XK is the same as the Land Rover in the event they don't have the XK in stock. This trick may work for you in the event your blower motor gets dowsed, or water has been leaking from the area. if the blower is still running, turn the heat up to 80 and fan on high in an attempt to dry everything out. Next take the fan out and see if it is dry. If it is wet, whatever you do, don't put it back in and try and use it, you will short the control module which is what I did. Figure you may have to invest in a blower motor so you might consider this. strip the motor down as far as you can and dowse it with WD 40. (Water Displacement 40). Then with a compressor blow it out as best you can and let it dry. This will keep the motor from rusting/seizing which is what I did. Next either circuit test yourself or take it to an Autozone and they may even hook it up to a battery to see if it turns over. I did not go that far, but I kept the motor as a possible back up as I had already purchased motor and modulator.

 

Well, I have good news and bad news as they say! The bad news is I was cleaning my car yesterday and I had a little water in the passenger footwell! It was a very humid day in Denver (unusual) and I had driven around quite a bit. I tried the procedure of closing all vents, on recirculate, full fan and out the water came! Most of it came out of my "new" tube and a little came out of the factory tube. So it may not be a great fix, but if I pay attention and do the "flush" regularly I should be OK. This was the first time all summer that it dumped a little water in the passenger area. And I do check it frequently for moisture. I drive it to work every day, but as I said it's not too humid in Denver.

 

Easy remedy remove plastic engine cover, put car on a hoist place support under gearbox and undo rear gearbox mounts a bit fiddly lower gearbox not too much.You should now be able from the engine compartment to get your hand between gearbox and transmission tunnel and poke your finger in the blocked outlet when you have you will feel the water pour out.Not a permanent cure but will only take about 20 mins and cost not a lot.

 

Thanks for the info. Do you have an XK or does lowering the gearbox give better access?

I took my engine cover off today and the air intake pipes are in the way.

 

The remedy only tried on XK not XKR,plenty of room to get your hand in once engine lowered slightly.

 

I have 2007 xk with the usual blocked drain. The photos are great but I have a question. The drain fitting is hardly lower than the fan. Does water not still come out of the fan?

 

When you put your hand down the back of the engine is the drain tube to the left of centre line looking from the front of car and if so how much?

 

Talking to my local nimble jaguar tech, I followed his advise and it worked. I also tried Denver DDs technique, only to have it fail.. With the black plastic engine cover off, from the left side of the engine, using your left hand inverted so your palm is facing upward, guide your hand upward toward the steering wheel. Your middle finger should feel the opening to the duck bill. once you become familiar with that opening, I used the thin metal wire that is used for the dog invisible fence flags to then send up into that hole. Jabbing as best I could, I then did the air vents closed, air sent to console setting, recirculate, on high. Water came gushing out. In the summer time, I keep the sound insulating material off the blower fan area to make it easier to see the water drip, in the event the duck bill is stuck. Once I see this, I do the vent trick and it works. I now, on the first hot summer day, I run the ac for a while as I am driving. once in a parking lot, I do the vent trick to force water through the duck bill drain. once I see that I am usually good for the rest of the season.

 

My 07 XKR finally succumbed to this issue just before Xmas and when I investigated I found that the water was dripping out around the seal for the fan motor so I would tend to agree with some of the other posts that the extra drain tube isn't going to help much because the fan is the lowest point in the ducting.

The fans on recirculate didn't work this time but my mechanic managed to get to the duck bill from under the car and cut a slot in it so hopefully mine is fixed for good.

 

I don't have an 07 but am thinking about it...anyway

Maybe to spur some different thinking on this issue I wonder if there is an accessible point in the line anywhere to splice in a tee and give it a shot with some low pressure compressed air occasionally if the closing of the vents and powering the blower wont open the stuck duckbill...or maybe backfeed a shopvac blower into one of the vents or accessible ducting (if any exist) with some rigged up way to seal it reasonably well while doing so. Maybe either of these could damage something though?

 

The 'line' is just the length of the duckbill - the low point of the collector aligns with a hole in the firewall, and the duckbill just sticks out the other side. There isn't a drain tube that you can tap into.