Any progress on the codes I'm getting mine installed and tuned tomorrow. I may be able to get the tuner to allow a different value range so the cats don't elict an error message.

I'll call him now and ask.

 

I just talked to him and he can keep the code from reappearing with the cats. Will update you guys tomorrow.

 

Max, I sent you another PM earlier. My codes are just for bank 1 so only one side and maybe an indication that the sensor/s are bad on that side. Maybe you could ask your tech that question. My codes are P219A and P2096

Have you installed your cats yet?

 

Thank you I was going to ask you for the codes. I'll save the codes in my phone and talk to him about them tomorrow. I've told him that you have the same cats I'm installing and others have had errors as well. This morning he said its not a problem and maybe he can ship you a tune if you like to fix the problem. I'll find out for sure tomorrow and email ASAP while hes still in town.

It will be tuned tomorrow, Cats Thursday then I'm driving it around ALOT and he's going to give it a final once over on Friday. He's also going to leave me the file for my specific car, and I just need to buy the equipment to apply the tune.

This is also going to be on a 4 wheel dyno so no fuses pulled and no BS, ti will be tuned as its driven on the street errr track..

 

One thing to remember with DTC codes, especially for emissions related ones, is that they are often not instantaneous, but require a full sensor cycle to be completed before they will appear.

So if you clear off cat efficiency codes, you'll probably need to run a good 100 miles or so before you know whether they are going to reappear.

 

I think its around 200 miles before they keep coming back. Im currently looking around for some HFC's, I will probably just end up making some if I can find the ball and socket style part and flange. The rest is no problem as I have access to a bender and do all my own fitting and welding.

Interested to hear about the tune adaptation to work around this issue.

 

well my codes came back within driving 60 miles. As I said odd is that they are always the same and juts for bank 1, you would expect it to be for both banks not just one.

Keep us posted Max and yes absolutely if anyway possible I would go for a tune to avoid the CEL. I just ordered new sensors for bank 1 just to try out and eliminate that I do not have bad sensors.

 

You could try switching the sensors and see if it then comes back as bank 2

 

Just noticed this thread.

To aid in minimizing the CEL for efficiency, one way I worked with this on my cat setup was to use a thicker wall tubing to keep heat up and SS material vs Aluminized steel. As well as mounting the CAT closer or at the same location as stock.

Another thing to keep in mind, let the CAT heat up a little before you take your car out for a spin. As this is what is triggering the CEL. The converter isn't at optimum temp, thus not catalyzing a redox reaction properly until at the ideal temp.

I've ran my 200 Cell setup for 5 months now and just recently had a CEL light for efficiency.

If you are getting these codes consistently, one approach would be to coat your cat setup with Ceramic. Thus holding the heat in and allowing the unit to heat up faster.

Additionally, if we want to look the material properties and how that impacts the rate at which the converter is heating:

Aluminized steel 409 Thermal conductivity: Approx 25.7 W/mk
Stainless Steel Thermal conductivity: 16 W/mk

Conductive heat loss through a pipe :
q = 2 π k (ti - to) / ln(ro / ri)



From this formula we can see the relationship of k (Thermal conductivity) to the heat transfer. The aluminized steel will absorb heat and transfer heat at a faster rate to the outside area per unit of length in comparison to the SS.

The SS will allow the heat to transfer at a slower rate, which means the exhaust gases will contain the heat, thus heating the converter substrate at a faster rate.

Many factor present here. I was surprised my setup went so long without a CEL. I'm going to ceramic coat them and I'll post some data.

Happy tuning ,
D. Fricke

 

Anyone know where to source something close to OEM fit on the flange to the manifold? Been trying to find a nice 304 stainless socket and flange for a while now but no luck yet.

 

Just found this thread myself, and I have some interesting information to add.

Putting the minicats on the downstream sensors will affect your closed-loop fuelling, in a major way. The downstream sensors are also used to determine the closed-loop fueling, so they need to read the exhaust gas correctly. If you go to a 100/200 cell cat then the best thing to do is an ECU adjustment which will disable the catalyst efficiency monitoring &/or disable the DTC's specific to the monitoring of the cats, but allows accurate measurement of exhaust O2 by the downstream sensors.

Have done this on my XJR after fitting 100 cell cats, no codes / CEL.

And just recently we pulled the minicats off another XJ that was fitted with 100 cell cats (this time N/A 4.2, not supercharged) and loaded the revised settings to turn off the catalyst efficiency monitoring. Big improvements in highway fuel economy and throttle reponse in the lower revs. Nothing too crazy to see in the top end (we were not trying for a power tune ), although the open-loop / wide open throttle AFR's now make sense, opposed to how they were all over the place with the minicats fitted.

Some more info here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...0/#post1217278

 

The lower flange that mounts header to cat? Vibrant performance makes these flanges, order from SummitRacing. If I remember correctly its 100mm bolt spacing. You can get a slotted pattern that covers 3.25"-4.00".

Regards,
D. Fricke

 

Ive got some flanges that would work, I'm struggling to find a perfect flared end. Tried several different ones and just can't find anything that has a nice snug fit like OEM.

 

Just take it up to an exhaust should and have it flared. Cheaper and will work fine. I used 2.5" with standard flare with no issues with sealing to the stock manifold.

Regards,
D. Fricke

 

Can you provide the name of the shop you used in Indianapolis?
Thanks, Greg (Carmel, IN)

 

On our cars , anytime you make an improvement to airflow in the Exhaust , you must , I repeat You Must adjust for it in the tune. Otherwise your car will drive like crap and it will appear as if you lost all the torque down there.

 

Within limits it will be OK. Consider limited improvements an optimization, not modification and they'll be OK. This thread is three years old other than a fella who can't google for an exhaust shop...

 

O yeah didn't realize this as an old thread... Sorry Ranchero but I'm lost as to what you meant in your statement above re optimization.. maybe refrase it if you can

 

The basic tune allows for manufacturing variances between mechanical and electrical parts or it would code too often for oddball things. Ideally a backyard guy can optimize his components, smooth radiuses, ensure the various signals are within spec or tweaked a little to help the engine perform better. In the old pre-OBDii days it was easier as the tolerances were wider.

 

Ok I think I got it. These car have everything written in the tune, supercharger pulley size, exact airflow into intake and back pressure in the exhaust. High flow cats throw a tune out of whack big time.