I didn't want to ask for advice until I did more research, which has been deferred due to constant crappy weather. Turns out that I don't need to, but there might be something here that helps the next guy/gal. I recently tore apart the intake, throttle body, and supercharger to do a preventative replacement of the 'valley hose', and also replace S/C oil. Thank you forum members for the tutorials and workshop manual to help me with that. It was a very enlightening experience.

I had no issues to speak of until I had it all put back together. I ended up with a check engine light, which I guessed was a product of running the motor while filling with coolant through the S/C. I drove it 5 miles to work out any air bubbles, and (since I don't have a code reader or an Android) did a hard reset. Light cleared! Success! Not so fast...

Next startup, the light came back on. I noticed the RPMs hunt for a couple of seconds after startup, but otherwise run fine, no restrictions. The only clear-road days were on days that my indy was closed, so I was unable to get the code read. I did drive it on a couple of short outings, hoping the light would go away, but it did not. My thoughts now were on the MAP sensor. I did not replace the o-ring, so I was thinking possible leak there. Saturday, I finally got around to looking at it. I pulled off the engine cover and took off the left resonator and the 'Y' on top of the throttle body to access the MAP sensor. I carefully unbolted it and slid it out. It came out with a slight 'pop' indicating that the o-ring was sealing. So much for that idea - with the help of a long magnet, I got it bolted back on, and decided to reassemble and try to get the code read.

As I was assembling, I kept looking at the intake 'Y' it has a foam ring that sits on the throttle body, and it seemed like it was getting aged and stiff. I smeared a little bit of dish soap on it to make sure it sealed and finished reassembly. Just in case, I did another hard reset. I got in, crossed my fingers, and voila! Engine runs without CEL! I was able to put about 30 miles on this weekend, and everything is great so far. Moral of the story: Make sure you get a good seal on your intake to the throttle body, as there is no clamp.

 

HAHA thats funny, I did the same thing to chase an air leak throwing a P0101 code. In the end I did all that work (like you) and it still lit up. Turns out is was from the same area: the new silicone reducer from throttle body to intake was not sealed tight, and was leaking. The original one was shredded. Glad you figured it out - but I would highly recommend getting a wireless OBDII adapter, then you can read codes and data from an app on your phone. Makes diagnosis much easier.

 

I agree, but from what I can tell from reading these forums, it doesn't work so well with I-products, which is why I haven't gone that far yet. My indy is literally across the street from my office, and has always been willing to read codes for free, since I kick some work to him. I would have actually had him do this project also, but he doesn't have much space, and if he had to order an extra part that he missed (like I did), he'd have a stall broken down for a week. I'll have to upgrade this phone sooner or later, and will most likely switch away from the I-product to something a little more app-friendly.

 

Just get yourself an OBDii reader that generates its own Wi-Fi network, instead of using Bluetooth. Same price as the Bluetooth ones, and then your I-product can connect to it.
Crapple is weird with their Bluetooth interface, so I use a Wi-Fi one. I’ll see if I can find it in my Amazon purchase history.

 

This is the one I have, but no longer available.

Here’s one that is available, and there are others, just look for iOS compatible (which will be the Wi-Fi ones).