Change Coolant???
#1
#3
You're over reacting about nothing. Normal temp range for these cars and all modern engines is in this range. I believe I read that the thermostat starts to open at 195 and is fully open at 210 so you are right in the sweet spot. Also with the pressure in the system and 50/50 coolant mix you are good to 230* without a problem. I would be concerned if you start to read 220* as a normal temp. other than that just drive it.
#4
#6
To the OP's question, per the manufacturer of Dexcool which is OAT antifreeze, 5 years or every 150,000. And that would be whichever comes first. It should include a flush. Specifically from the Jaguar owners manual -
"50% mixture of water and antifreeze to specification WSS M97B44 (coloured orange) Extended Life Coolant."
Extended life implies to me that it has an end of life point.
Dexcool is known to build up sludge. This is caused by air in the system per GM but that's a legal argument. We all know sludge build up happens, just not to all vehicles with Dexcool. Some included in the lawsuit(s) say mixing Dexcool with other types of anti freeze causes sludge. Regardless, I'm not a chemist but know that all these fluids in every car break down eventually.
You don't have to stick with OAT antifreeze if you're past warranty. You can switch to Ethylene Glycol (the green stuff). or HOAT. Just know that you MUST completely flush your system if you switch. Don't mix antifreeze types. They don't play well together. But pretty much all different antifreezes are used in aluminum block engines.
Best way to do it is with a vacuum refill kit IMO.
"50% mixture of water and antifreeze to specification WSS M97B44 (coloured orange) Extended Life Coolant."
Extended life implies to me that it has an end of life point.
Dexcool is known to build up sludge. This is caused by air in the system per GM but that's a legal argument. We all know sludge build up happens, just not to all vehicles with Dexcool. Some included in the lawsuit(s) say mixing Dexcool with other types of anti freeze causes sludge. Regardless, I'm not a chemist but know that all these fluids in every car break down eventually.
You don't have to stick with OAT antifreeze if you're past warranty. You can switch to Ethylene Glycol (the green stuff). or HOAT. Just know that you MUST completely flush your system if you switch. Don't mix antifreeze types. They don't play well together. But pretty much all different antifreezes are used in aluminum block engines.
Best way to do it is with a vacuum refill kit IMO.
Last edited by Sean W; 09-14-2019 at 03:24 PM.
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Queen and Country (09-14-2019)
#7
This is what your heater core looks like in 10years 88k and never flushed the cooling system. I bought this from the original owner and she never wanted to do anything recommended. So I bought her car real cheap and fixed all her issues that snowballed in 2014. I have now put 105k on it in 4 years. Flush and change all your fluids unless you too like added unnecessary repairs. And BTW this was AFTER I tried 3 power flushes and CLR to try and save myself the hassle of this repair
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#8
Hey Brutal, I found a way that puts CLR to shame. (you probably know this) 1/2 hp submersible pump in 5 gallon bucket of vinegar and little all-purpose cleaner, ran it for 3 days. It was on day 2 that the flood gates of rust and sediments opened. I had run CLR for 2 days prior to that with hardly anything.
(this was on a chevy 350)
(this was on a chevy 350)
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Brutal (09-16-2019)
#9
hey brutal, i found a way that puts clr to shame. (you probably know this) 1/2 hp submersible pump in 5 gallon bucket of vinegar and little all-purpose cleaner, ran it for 3 days. It was on day 2 that the flood gates of rust and sediments opened. I had run clr for 2 days prior to that with hardly anything.
(this was on a chevy 350)
(this was on a chevy 350)
#11
This is what your heater core looks like in 10years 88k and never flushed the cooling system. I bought this from the original owner and she never wanted to do anything recommended. So I bought her car real cheap and fixed all her issues that snowballed in 2014. I have now put 105k on it in 4 years. Flush and change all your fluids unless you too like added unnecessary repairs. And BTW this was AFTER I tried 3 power flushes and CLR to try and save myself the hassle of this repair
#12
#13
I think the OP got his answers so I'm OK with letting this thread drift a bit....
#14
I dont think its thread drift, you hit the nail on the head, most of us dont know. Thank you Brutal for showing us the future. I am now going to flush my car like I have done every other car I have owned. (I dont like changing out heater cores)
So flush is getting the old out running some water to get sediments out, then refilling.
Power flush is attaching a pump and running some form of cleaner. But this takes time 2 days. Most service shops are not going to give you a bay for 2 days just to clean the cooling system. They run something like prestone- for 20 mins. Which does f-all. Plus the somewhat effective prestone you cant buy anymore. They have changed the formula. (then again it probably at intake gaskets on newer cars)
So flush is getting the old out running some water to get sediments out, then refilling.
Power flush is attaching a pump and running some form of cleaner. But this takes time 2 days. Most service shops are not going to give you a bay for 2 days just to clean the cooling system. They run something like prestone- for 20 mins. Which does f-all. Plus the somewhat effective prestone you cant buy anymore. They have changed the formula. (then again it probably at intake gaskets on newer cars)
#15
On lifetime being the life of the warranty period. We techs and people here have long said that about "sealed for life" yeah life of the warranty then take care of your fluids and car. It was mostly refferring to transmission fluid exchange which i do ever 60k. Have 195k on it now and i "j" gate all the time and still going strong. Knock on wood
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jahummer (09-17-2019)
#16
#17
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