Convertible Hood not latched issue
#1
Convertible Hood not latched issue
On my 2007 XK convertible, I put the top down today (in my garage - way too cold to go topless here!), and the top wouldn’t go all the way down – the roof folded into the trunk, the tonneau, closed, but would not lock into place, and kept getting the Hood no Latched warning on the dash. I went to raise the roof, and the tonneau closed, but even though he motor kept running, the top never would go into the closed position, with the same message on the dash (Hood not Latched, even though it was clearly latched (yes, it was locked in place). I tried disconnecting the battery and reset the windows, but I couldn’t get the roof to close or open completely. I was able to manually close the roof, but the back windows would not go up, as I was still getting the Hood not Latched error message on my dash.
I am taking this car to Florida on Saturday, so any help I could get would be huge. Yes, I did search the forum and found nothing that helped. I’m guessing that a sensor must be off, but don’t know where to look. Yes, the battery is good (its my daily driver and the battery is just over a year old). I’ll put it on a C-Tek tonight anyway.
TIA
Jon
I am taking this car to Florida on Saturday, so any help I could get would be huge. Yes, I did search the forum and found nothing that helped. I’m guessing that a sensor must be off, but don’t know where to look. Yes, the battery is good (its my daily driver and the battery is just over a year old). I’ll put it on a C-Tek tonight anyway.
TIA
Jon
#2
Jon,
You didn't get the "Luggage separator out of position" warning, so I presume it's OK. One possibility is that the cold weather adversely affected the hydraulic fluid.
Try resetting the front windows. Start the engine and lower both front windows. Press and hold the switches down for about three seconds. Then raise both front windows and hold the switches up for about three seconds. Once you do this see if the top will lower. Remember the trunk needs to be closed and the luggage separator in proper position.
If that doesn't work, then you need to lower the top manually. See your Owner's Handbook on how to do it. Here's the .pdf file.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s177kims55...20Top.pdf?dl=0
Hope this helps,
Stuart
You didn't get the "Luggage separator out of position" warning, so I presume it's OK. One possibility is that the cold weather adversely affected the hydraulic fluid.
Try resetting the front windows. Start the engine and lower both front windows. Press and hold the switches down for about three seconds. Then raise both front windows and hold the switches up for about three seconds. Once you do this see if the top will lower. Remember the trunk needs to be closed and the luggage separator in proper position.
If that doesn't work, then you need to lower the top manually. See your Owner's Handbook on how to do it. Here's the .pdf file.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s177kims55...20Top.pdf?dl=0
Hope this helps,
Stuart
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envincibal (01-20-2019)
#3
On my 2007 XK convertible, I put the top down today (in my garage - way too cold to go topless here!), and the top wouldn’t go all the way down – the roof folded into the trunk, the tonneau, closed, but would not lock into place, and kept getting the Hood no Latched warning on the dash. I went to raise the roof, and the tonneau closed, but even though he motor kept running, the top never would go into the closed position, with the same message on the dash (Hood not Latched, even though it was clearly latched (yes, it was locked in place). I tried disconnecting the battery and reset the windows, but I couldn’t get the roof to close or open completely. I was able to manually close the roof, but the back windows would not go up, as I was still getting the Hood not Latched error message on my dash.
I am taking this car to Florida on Saturday, so any help I could get would be huge. Yes, I did search the forum and found nothing that helped. I’m guessing that a sensor must be off, but don’t know where to look. Yes, the battery is good (its my daily driver and the battery is just over a year old). I’ll put it on a C-Tek tonight anyway.
TIA
Jon
I am taking this car to Florida on Saturday, so any help I could get would be huge. Yes, I did search the forum and found nothing that helped. I’m guessing that a sensor must be off, but don’t know where to look. Yes, the battery is good (its my daily driver and the battery is just over a year old). I’ll put it on a C-Tek tonight anyway.
TIA
Jon
#4
Where is stops
This is where the process stop. The pump is still running though nothing else happens. As soon as it times out or I release the convertible button, the Hood not Latched warning shows up. The back end is locked in place - no movement.
I have a strong feeling its the sensor at the latch on the driver's side. Possible a break in the wire somewhere or the sensor itself went bad - I did spray a little contact cleaner on the sensor, but still no luck.
#5
#6
#7
I put my XK on the C-tek last night, and I'll be damned, the roof closed with no issues!!! Damn those gremlins!
My mistake is that I assumed that the battery voltage would have been enough since I drive the car 4-6 days each week (avg 50 miles per day); I should have check the voltage first knowing how finicky these cars are about that.
Just in case it wasn't the voltage, I'm going to order a replacement sensor (not expensive at all), and will install it if the issue arises again (along with checking the wiring).
My mistake is that I assumed that the battery voltage would have been enough since I drive the car 4-6 days each week (avg 50 miles per day); I should have check the voltage first knowing how finicky these cars are about that.
Just in case it wasn't the voltage, I'm going to order a replacement sensor (not expensive at all), and will install it if the issue arises again (along with checking the wiring).
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#8
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envincibal (01-21-2019)
#9
I put my XK on the C-tek last night, and I'll be damned, the roof closed with no issues!!! Damn those gremlins!
My mistake is that I assumed that the battery voltage would have been enough since I drive the car 4-6 days each week (avg 50 miles per day); I should have check the voltage first knowing how finicky these cars are about that.
Just in case it wasn't the voltage, I'm going to order a replacement sensor (not expensive at all), and will install it if the issue arises again (along with checking the wiring).
My mistake is that I assumed that the battery voltage would have been enough since I drive the car 4-6 days each week (avg 50 miles per day); I should have check the voltage first knowing how finicky these cars are about that.
Just in case it wasn't the voltage, I'm going to order a replacement sensor (not expensive at all), and will install it if the issue arises again (along with checking the wiring).
Also, after the car is running for a few minutes, carefully touch each battery terminal with your hand. If either terminal is hot, you have a defective battery cable. It is quite common for these cables (particularly the ground cable) to fail at the crimp and present a high resistance.
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#10
I now have the EXACT same issue, in a different order: I got the HOOD NOT LATCHED warning (the top was down). Checked the hood, which was indeed latched and opened and closed fine. Mostly an annoyance.
When I went to close the top, it got about 90 percent through the cycle when it stopped, citing "HOOD NOT LATCHED." So I lowered the top - it went through the cycle fine. It will warm up tomorrow. Hopefully that will help. I've not had any other battery "gremlins" with this battery. Fingers crossed. Might try the hard reset to see if that helps.
When I went to close the top, it got about 90 percent through the cycle when it stopped, citing "HOOD NOT LATCHED." So I lowered the top - it went through the cycle fine. It will warm up tomorrow. Hopefully that will help. I've not had any other battery "gremlins" with this battery. Fingers crossed. Might try the hard reset to see if that helps.
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JagRag (05-13-2020)
#11
I now have the EXACT same issue, in a different order: I got the HOOD NOT LATCHED warning (the top was down). Checked the hood, which was indeed latched and opened and closed fine. Mostly an annoyance.
When I went to close the top, it got about 90 percent through the cycle when it stopped, citing "HOOD NOT LATCHED." So I lowered the top - it went through the cycle fine. It will warm up tomorrow. Hopefully that will help. I've not had any other battery "gremlins" with this battery. Fingers crossed. Might try the hard reset to see if that helps.
When I went to close the top, it got about 90 percent through the cycle when it stopped, citing "HOOD NOT LATCHED." So I lowered the top - it went through the cycle fine. It will warm up tomorrow. Hopefully that will help. I've not had any other battery "gremlins" with this battery. Fingers crossed. Might try the hard reset to see if that helps.
#12
So, OK. I'm looking into tenders. Three questions:
- there are at least 5 different c-tek tenders on Amazon, and they vary greatly in price. Does it matter? Is there a preferred model here?
- issue #2: where I live it would take at least 10 days to get one delivered. I can't seem to find stores that sell them. Are they on store shelves?
- there is a "battery tender" for sale at both local auto parts stores. Should I just grab one of those?
Thanks...
- there are at least 5 different c-tek tenders on Amazon, and they vary greatly in price. Does it matter? Is there a preferred model here?
- issue #2: where I live it would take at least 10 days to get one delivered. I can't seem to find stores that sell them. Are they on store shelves?
- there is a "battery tender" for sale at both local auto parts stores. Should I just grab one of those?
Thanks...
#13
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So, OK. I'm looking into tenders. Three questions:
- there are at least 5 different c-tek tenders on Amazon, and they vary greatly in price. Does it matter? Is there a preferred model here?
- issue #2: where I live it would take at least 10 days to get one delivered. I can't seem to find stores that sell them. Are they on store shelves?
- there is a "battery tender" for sale at both local auto parts stores. Should I just grab one of those?
Thanks...
- there are at least 5 different c-tek tenders on Amazon, and they vary greatly in price. Does it matter? Is there a preferred model here?
- issue #2: where I live it would take at least 10 days to get one delivered. I can't seem to find stores that sell them. Are they on store shelves?
- there is a "battery tender" for sale at both local auto parts stores. Should I just grab one of those?
Thanks...
‘battery tender’ models, others here have had those over heat/melt. I have a metal cased ‘battery tender’ brand and it only gets barely warm.
#14
#15
#16
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ralphwg (05-14-2020)
#17
Just don't ever leave your maintainer inside your car or near anything flammable while it's charging. Check that maintainer occasionally and touch it to see if the case is too hot. Read the negative reviews on Amazon of the Clore Pro-Logix battery maintainer. I'm pointing this out so you're aware of the potential fire hazard, which is possible with any brand of battery maintainer. My old Deltran Battery Tender Jr. overheated and melted the plastic case and could have burned my house down. Just be safe and check it occasionally.
Hopefully, yours will give you many years of trouble-free service.
#18
I put my XK on the C-tek last night, and I'll be damned, the roof closed with no issues!!! Damn those gremlins!
My mistake is that I assumed that the battery voltage would have been enough since I drive the car 4-6 days each week (avg 50 miles per day); I should have check the voltage first knowing how finicky these cars are about that.
Just in case it wasn't the voltage, I'm going to order a replacement sensor (not expensive at all), and will install it if the issue arises again (along with checking the wiring).
My mistake is that I assumed that the battery voltage would have been enough since I drive the car 4-6 days each week (avg 50 miles per day); I should have check the voltage first knowing how finicky these cars are about that.
Just in case it wasn't the voltage, I'm going to order a replacement sensor (not expensive at all), and will install it if the issue arises again (along with checking the wiring).
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