Convertible top plastic slide part
#21
Thank you for your knowledge and information,
when the weather improves, hoping to resolve this side panel issue,
just dug out the manual, whilst having a read, their maybe a possibility to remove the
"rear quarter trim panel" to gain access ?
Question: - do you know if the rear seats need to be removed to gain access to the screws to remove the "rear quarter trim panel" -
Thank you . . .
when the weather improves, hoping to resolve this side panel issue,
just dug out the manual, whilst having a read, their maybe a possibility to remove the
"rear quarter trim panel" to gain access ?
Question: - do you know if the rear seats need to be removed to gain access to the screws to remove the "rear quarter trim panel" -
Thank you . . .
#22
Thank you for your knowledge and information,
when the weather improves, hoping to resolve this side panel issue,
just dug out the manual, whilst having a read, their maybe a possibility to remove the "rear quarter trim panel" to gain access ?
Question: - do you know if the rear seats need to be removed to gain access to the screws to remove the "rear quarter trim panel" -
Thank you . . .
when the weather improves, hoping to resolve this side panel issue,
just dug out the manual, whilst having a read, their maybe a possibility to remove the "rear quarter trim panel" to gain access ?
Question: - do you know if the rear seats need to be removed to gain access to the screws to remove the "rear quarter trim panel" -
Thank you . . .
#27
#28
JP
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NikiJ (02-05-2024)
#29
Were you able to fix this cracked track? If so can you give me some advice on how to do so? I have a 2008 XKR
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beasleee (10-03-2022)
#30
#31
The sliding flap on my car broke again. The first time, the track section broke - so I removed the rear panel and glued the broken portion of the track in place and then put more glue (JB Weld Original) liberally and strategically around the track to reinforce it. That worked well. But last week the flap jumped its track again (probably after 100 times of cycling top) and in the process of trying to pull it out, the string came out. I fixed that my taking it all apart again, and taking the damper apart (the spring is really under load - my end cap landed about 40 feet away). I pulled the plastic piece out of the end of the tube. A part of the piece that held the string was history. So I drilled two small holes from the back of the plastic and inserted a thin piece of metal from a small key ring that I shaped into a U to go through the end. Once through I turned the ends with needle nose pliers so I would have something for the string to hook onto. I did it in such a way that the inserted metal did not affect how the spring seated itself on the plastic or hit the sides at all. Worked fine.
But the flap just jumped the track again. I stopped it before any damage was done. But this is getting old.
I am wondering if anyone has done something else to fix this - I can buy a new flap but they are not cheap. Although I would do it if the new ones have been redesigned? Has anyone tried to put something (like a thin plastic tube) over the pins to extend their length to keep them from coming out of the track? I am thinking of heat shrink 1/8 silicon tubing on the small pins? Or greasing the track? It happens when the roof closes...Could the string be under to much tension?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
But the flap just jumped the track again. I stopped it before any damage was done. But this is getting old.
I am wondering if anyone has done something else to fix this - I can buy a new flap but they are not cheap. Although I would do it if the new ones have been redesigned? Has anyone tried to put something (like a thin plastic tube) over the pins to extend their length to keep them from coming out of the track? I am thinking of heat shrink 1/8 silicon tubing on the small pins? Or greasing the track? It happens when the roof closes...Could the string be under to much tension?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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beasleee (10-03-2022)
#32
#33
#34
@Jwooky I am now doing the same thing. I stop the roof half way, get out, disconnect the cable and push the sliding panel in. Then close the roof the rest of the way. But doing this has led me to believe I have figured out my latest issue, sometimes when I disconnect the cable, the panel does not immediately slide back in...I have to give it a nudge. If I don't do this, and the panel is sitting there when the roof closes - bad things happen.
Now I wonder if this latest return spring issue caused my broken track (that I fixed with epoxy) or the warping and bending of my panel/pins (that I fixed with a heat gun). Or did my return spring get damaged when those other things failed?
Can you tell me if your panel immediately slides in on its own when you disconnect the front cable? And if so, does it do it 100% of the time? If it sticks one time...its bad.
Can anyone tell me if Jaguar ever changed the return spring? Or if the sliding panel kits I see online have a different spring? I have an 07, is this an issue on newer cars?
Now I wonder if this latest return spring issue caused my broken track (that I fixed with epoxy) or the warping and bending of my panel/pins (that I fixed with a heat gun). Or did my return spring get damaged when those other things failed?
Can you tell me if your panel immediately slides in on its own when you disconnect the front cable? And if so, does it do it 100% of the time? If it sticks one time...its bad.
Can anyone tell me if Jaguar ever changed the return spring? Or if the sliding panel kits I see online have a different spring? I have an 07, is this an issue on newer cars?
#36
plastic sliding piece for convertible
Just purchased an 08 XK Convertible and there is a small plastic part that slides to meet up with the tonneau cover when the top is down. It is working on one side but not the other. I can see the cable (cord) is not connected. Is this a major issue to fix and would it be covered as a Jaguar CPO issue?
BTW, pictures to follow. Pick it up next weekend.
Rear quarter casing
dealer says 410.00 Edison NJ
Thanks,
BTW, pictures to follow. Pick it up next weekend.
Rear quarter casing
dealer says 410.00 Edison NJ
Thanks,
Rear quarter casing its Plastic dealer talking 410.00 !! American money too
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NikiJ (02-05-2024)
#37
This is not an uncommon occurrence. There are several write ups as to how to make the repair. Check the stickies at the top of the lead page for this Forum and you may find directions to a write up. If that fails then use the search box at the upper right corner of this page trying different entries/words that fit until you come up with one of the threads. I have never had to repair the mechanism but it could be a diy if you think you are competent to do it.
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