I am pretty sure this is going to expose me as a questionable DIYer...but I sure could use some guidance anyway.

Regarding testing my cooling system...is there any reason why I would not use a pressure tester to confirm the hoses are holding pressure/are good?

Regarding hoses...and man I really feel like a dummy for asking this...but the hoses, is the best practice for putting them on to twist them on until I hear it click? I replaced a single hose last summer (big mistake, should have done them all!) and I recall that it was a bear to slide on until I twisted it on. Then I think I may have heard a click. Is this correct? Lastly, is there a best practice to accessing the hoses on the front and right side of the engine compartment? (I.e. going in from below, or take out the radiator first?)

For background, I am that guy that wanted to track the car for an HPDE (High Performance Drivers Education) day at a local track. The car was performing so well until...well, it didn't. I blew at least one hose. Not sure what else. I went ahead and ordered all new hoses. I held off on new water pump and thermostats.

For further background, my car is not supercharged and is a 5 liter.

Thanks again to all who respond. I appreciate the help.

 

Click? Rubber hoses don't click... However some plastic ones with tab releases will click.

 

As said above, unless the 5.0 hoses are very different to our 4.2, the main coolant hoses such as those going to and from the radiator are large diameter rubber-like hoses with expanding spring clips so there is no clicking. You might need a pair of hose clip pliers to simplify releasing and refitting them. It sounds as if you might be twisting/dragging the hoses on and off without releasing the clip first but this is not the correct removal/fitment method and you might damage the hose or the spigot.

You cannot take the radiator out without releasing the hoses at one end or the other, usually the radiator end, so you need to change the hoses with the radiator in place. Access to the top hose is usually best from the top and from the underneath for the bottom hose. We have a 4.2 which will be different but I think that the best way to access the top hose clip is to to remove the large aluminium cross beam which runs across the top of the radiator. However, this might not be strictly necessary even on the 4.2.

Richard

 

Can you even install hoses w/o opening the hose clip? The whole point of the clip is to secure the hose.
Pressure testing is a standard procedure.
Old cars need new rubber. You've got an 2012 NA XK which is 12 years. Based on age, when do hoses and thermo/mount need to be done? I've got an 07 XKR. Full replace (hoses/thermo/mount) next on list of things to do. Does a 4.2 SC also need a new water pump?
Laguna Seca Track Day in October.

 

Bummer to receive parts this way…clip missing and bag torn open. Doesn’t leave me feeling much comfort with the job/parts

 

To remove the old ones, press the hose in, squeeze the blue tabs and pull. To fit, just press the new one all the way on.

 

Thanks, for some reason I thought I needed to twist as well. All good.

Just found that the leak is coming off the front of the motor…am thinking water pump. I haven’t done the pressure test yet. Just wanted to see if I could find obvious leakage…and I did.

 

Yes, front leak's usually the water pump.

 

Can also be the water outlet pipes, especially if they're still the welded seam style.

Not sure if there are any aluminium water outlet pipes available for the normally aspirated AJ133.

 

I have not torn into a Jag cooling system before. I assume these pipes you mention are under the intake, above the valley pan. If so, won't know that until I removed the water pump (unless I do a pressure test first...but even then it will still spew out the front- right?)

I am just going to order the water pump for now since I have a ton of hoses I just ordered, including the oil cooler hose. Can't wait to replace that one. (Kidding...hope it is a breeze since it is on bottom.)

Am curious, is there a "maintenance" setting on our hoods where I can flip it further up for access?

 

Yes, remove one end of the hood struts and place a bolt through the service holes on the hinges.

EDIT: And yes, you should be replacing the plastic water outlet pipes under the intake.

 

Thank you again. I appreciate the guidance.

 

Update:
Water pump arrived, as did the thermostat and another hose. I pulled the water pump and realized it was perfectly fine and the hoses (in general) are all in great shape. But since I am in there, may as well replace them.

Here is the pump.






Regarding the source of the leak...after pulling the pump, I saw standing water in the valley pan, behind the pump. So...I took off the intake. Not a tough job at all. But...here is what I found when I removed the inlet pipe.

I don't think super glue is fixing that. And even if it could, it was meant as a joke.

Here is my valley pan...do I have a metal crossover tube? If so, awesome. If not...do I need to remove that cooler to access this one? (I need to get the shopvac in there and clean this up!)


Finally, am disappointed as I received the water pump and it didn't have all the parts that were in the photo...seems to me that I keep getting returned parts (I have had other issues with this online dealer). Here is what I need to get now:



Anyway, am learning a ton about this car and am thoroughly enjoying it. Am grateful that I can walk away from the work anytime (which I have a few times). Once I got over the concept of removing things, there seems to be plenty of room to work. Not as much as an old Ford Galaxy, but enough room and sight lines to make quick work of it all.

Any guidance on the crossover tube is appreciated. (Am looking to understand if I need to remove that cooler/radiator in the valley pan to look at the pipe.)

Thank you.

 

@Speedmaster the coolant’s the wrong colour, should be orange.

I’d advise only using genuine parts here, aftermarket tend not to last as long and you don’t want to be doing this again in a year.

EDIT: the pipe you’re referring to’s welded to the oil cooler, not serviceable nor does it need servicing.

 

Thanks jahummer...all the parts I have purchased are only OEM and only from a Jaguar dealer in the US.

Had a random thought. I am going to use permanent marker and put a date on each part I replace. I think it may be helpful to future techs to know (and of me.) Anyone else do this?

One other observation...the use of zip ties to hold hose clamps might just be what I need to get hoses back on in tight spaces.

 

Quick question ... does the flange on this pipe go behind or in front of the lip on the block?




Also, found another blown hose. So glad I bought all new ones. I don't want to go back in this engine bay for awhile.

 

@Speedmaster

Behind, it holds the pipe in place.

 

I meant to reply to this earlier. Yes, some of the cooling hoses are indeed clip-ons. In fact the thermostat even has a wire retainer clip holding the upper to the lower housing. Not all hoses have the clip system (though I wish they did.)