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Thanks for the post, Tex, it's a big help. T marked the hoses you referred to with an "X" and a circle. What do you think about the other tubes and hoses marked with an "X"? These plastic/rubber parts are subjected to a wide temperature range change which over 6 years would not be kind to their integrity. I'll just like to use the opportunity while the supercharger is off to replace these wear parts.
Thanks for the post, Tex, it's a big help. T marked the hoses you referred to with an "X" and a circle. What do you think about the other tubes and hoses marked with an "X"? These plastic/rubber parts are subjected to a wide temperature range change which over 6 years would not be kind to their integrity. I'll just like to use the opportunity while the supercharger is off to replace these wear parts.
So going from the bottom of the picture upwards, the first "X" is the pipe that connects the coolant output of the oil cooler to the waterpump. It can't be accessed without removing the waterpump and my understanding is that most dealerships change this part when they change the waterpump. The second "X" is what I call the "Y" pipe and it connects the block coolant passages to the front manifold (the bit you see at the top of the engine. The old design used 3 separate pieces (the 'Y" pipe, a coupler and the top manifold). The new design uses 2 pieces and they are not split down the middle and welded like the old design. I've got a picture of the pipes/manifolds somewhere and I'll post it later. The third and forth "X's" aren't pipes, they are the electrical connections to the 4 knock sensors fitted into the block. The other pieces you can't see are the rear coolant manifold which is at the back of the engine under the wiring loom. This connects coolant passageways on either cylinder head. The last part is the long rubber hose that goes under the supercharger and connects to an outlet on the rear coolant manifold and to the throttle body. Hopefully this is clear but let me know if you need more info.
I don't have the 5.0 so I don't know which one it is exactly. I usually look up the PN, ask my guy at the dealer how much he wants for it, then ask him to bring it down a bit. Prices at the dealer are pretty much the same as SNG, so you may be better off getting them from the dealer. Dealer turnaround time is also about 1 day, and up to 4 weeks with SNG. However SNG does offer a forum discount - not sure how much though.
Had a productive conversation with the service manager yesterday. He will order all preventative maintenance parts I want for replacement to be installed once the supercharger is removed. He confirmed the supercharger is required to be removed to replace the torsion isolator. What I have on order: hose that is located under supercharger, front (one piece) and rear (one piece) coolant manifold tubes, supercharger oil, and thermostat.
This is all being done as preventative maintenance to take advantage of the opportunity afforded to replace these parts by gaining easy access from having the supercharger removed under CPO warranty to replace the torsion isolator. Should I have them replace the belts and water pump hoses? Anything else? Try will check the water pump pulley for any free play.
Whatever your budget can afford. If removing the necessary parts gains easy access to belts and hoses, you save them time (labor costs) and you money (labor costs. You gain peace of mind. I see little downside. The parts aren't free but you could be saving several hours on labor.
One thing I would definitely do though is get a price from the service manager on belts and hoses as a standalone bid and make sure you're not getting double billed. Most dealerships are reputable enough that they wouldn't do that but enough are that if it were my car, I would get side by side estimates in writing.
Belts hoses as standalone estimate.
Belts, hoses with SC and assorted bits already removed.
Whatever your budget can afford. If removing the necessary parts gains easy access to belts and hoses, you save them time (labor costs) and you money (labor costs. You gain peace of mind. I see little downside. The parts aren't free but you could be saving several hours on labor.
One thing I would definitely do though is get a price from the service manager on belts and hoses as a standalone bid and make sure you're not getting double billed. Most dealerships are reputable enough that they wouldn't do that but enough are that if it were my car, I would get side by side estimates in writing.
Belts hoses as standalone estimate.
Belts, hoses with SC and assorted bits already removed.
I have a good relationship with the dealer. I have no worries about them over charging me. However, your advise is most prudent and I always review terms of understanding before undertaking any work. I will seek confirmation of only removal/replacement costs at an hourly rate for parts with no rack rate costs. The service manager understands this, but I will confirm.
The CPO warranty claim to replace the SC torsion isolator, replace 2 TPMS sensors, check belts, check water pump pulley and replace coolant hoses, change the SC oil. and thermostat as preventative maintenance was done Friday. I'm attaching the service work order invoice. I was billed for the TPMS sensors and had them remove it because it was a warranty claim item. They charged me 1 hour labor to change the SC oil which I complained about and they reduced it to 1/2 hour. To replace all of the hoses while the SC was removed they charged me 2.7 hours which I find high because some of the hoses had to be removed to do the torsion isolator warranty item. I was also billed for a jug of antifreeze which I think should be covered by the warranty claim because they had to remove some coolant hoses to do the warranty claim. They charged me $87 in shop supplies which I think should largely be included in the warranty claim. I should have got this all sorted out before committing to the work order as some members suggested. However, I was happy they were willing to do the SC oil change and replace the torsion isolator with a supplied solid isolator.
Other minor problems:
1. My car has been completely detailed and paint corrected with absolutely so swirls or scratches before the service. The hood has some scratches and the right fender has some scratches which could have been avoided by using a protective plastic covering before placing the work mats over the fenders.
2. A custom Growler tire stem cap was missing on one of the valve stems they replaced.
I expected some minor problems. The scratches appear to be superficial and should come out with a little swirl removal compound. The tire stem cap is cheap and I'll reorder more.
Any comments. Parts on garage floor are parts Removed and a new torsion isolator along side of the removed torsion isolator. Solid isolator in 1st picture was installed.