2010XK

At 21K, I determined a new H2O pump was needed. At this time, I've got the pump out (boy, was it gone, lots of wobble damage). Although I don't detect any antifreeze on the cross over pipe (outlet pipe in the Jag manual) or at the seams I can reach, I have considered replacing it prophylactically. While the Jag manual has guidance for replacing the pump, I could NOT find guidance on replacing the cross over pipe.

Could someone point me in the correct direction? I haven't seen any write ups for R&R.

Best,
Wrair

 

2010XK,
I assume you have a 5.0 engine. I did this on my 2011 a few months ago.
You'll need to remove the throttle body and then the intake manifold, or at least lift up the front section to gain access to the two 10mm? bolts securing the crossover pipe.

The Be very carful removing the small plastic hoses from the thermostat housing and the upper crossover pipe, they are very delicate, and I mean VERY delicate. Once freed from the pipes place themselves carefully out of the way.

If you have a good selection of pliers you can use those to remove the OEM radiator hose clips. If you're good, you'll be able to reuse them. You may find you'll have to update some parts, as Jaguar have changed the way they run the hoses. The cost of the updated parts is not excessive, but the trip to parts man might be frustrating.

In short this is not difficult to do, just be careful to properly torque everything as you reassemble. I did not replace any of the intake gaskets and have had any issues for not doing so. Be careful you use silicone lube when installing the short oil cooler tube behind water pump. If left dry you may damage the O ring seals and put in jeopardy all your work.
Regards,

 

Thanks, White Bear!

Follow up comments/questions:

1. Correct; 5.0L. Sorry.
2. Can one replace the crossover pipe at a future date without removing, once again, the water pump (I haven't decided whether I want to do the crossover replacement, but will have a better idea after studying your comments).
3. Did you replace both pump and crossover? Or was it only the crossover pipe that failed? Sounds like you took the water pump off, too.
4. As far as I can tell, the replacement crossover pipe is identical to what is presently in the car.
5. I purchased a replacement "tube behind the water pump", because the parts guy said they usually replace that with the pump.
6. I'll have to look tomorrow regarding the small plastic hoses from the thermostat housing and the upper crossover pipe. I had great difficulty, particularly with my fat hands/fingers, removing the small hose from the water pump (pushed the black ring in towards the pump and pulled the small pipe out - not much room).
7. Did you have any problems filling with fresh antifreeze and burping the system?

Thanks again,
WRAIR

 

2010XK,
It took me a little while to realize that it was the crossover tube that had failed, and at first thought it was the water pump. I removed the old pump and found it had lots of bearing play and assumed it was the pump leaking. It was only after I reassembled and refilled the cooling system and the leak reoccurred that I took a second look and found the crossover tube leaking, so yes I did replace my water pump.
I was told the replacement crossover tube was an improvement over the old tube, which was a known failure item because of its poor bonding.
As to refilling, no issues at all. Perhaps a little more burping than usual but squeezing the top hose regularly as you fill will allow you remove the trapped air.
I used a universal antifreeze to refill rather than go through the song and dance of using an exact OEM replacement.
When you lift the intake manifold the backside of all the intake valves are visible. It's interesting to look and see how much carbon buildup you have, given the controversy of carbon buildup on the back of intake valves in direct injection engines.
Good luck!

 

One more clarification, please, White Bear.

You replaced the water pump, put everything together, and noticed a leak remained, which you traced to the cross over tube.

Did you have to take the water pump off another time or could you just replace the cross over (leaving the water pump installed) tube.

Best,
WRAIR

 

I did remove the pump, but looking back on it I don't think it was required in order to remove the crossover tube. There are a couple of short and difficult to remove coolant hoses that might make life difficult, but if you do have to remove it, it's only 4 bolts, 2 gaskets, the oil cooler connecting tube, along with the belt and tensioner of course.
Good Luck.

 

Do you think k seal would fix a small leak in the crossover pipe? I replaced the water pump but now have a slow leak.

 

 

Hi White bear,

In the #2 post you had mentioned, "Be careful you use silicone lube when installing the short oil cooler tube behind water pump. If left dry you may damage the O ring seals and put in jeopardy all your work."

I did replace the water pump on a 2014 xf 3.0 supercharged awd. I also replaced the plastic tube behind it, you also have to put 2 o-rings on there, one inside the tube and one goes outside the tube. I was not directed by the dealer to put on a silicone lube, is that something dealers do without telling you, or a trick of the trade.

After i replaced the water pump, i still had a leak.. turns out it's coming from the outlet pipe (part aj813865 and aj813917). I will be replacing those two hoses tomorrow.

My question is should i open up the water pump and take out the short oil cooler tube and lube it up. If so where do i apply the lube (metal piece in the water pump, inside the tube near o-ring, outside the tube near o-ring). Also since the water pump will be opened, would i need to replace the water pump gaskets. (this water pump was replaced 10 days ago, car has been driven maybe 20 miles since then in total).

Thanks,
Faz

 

 

Hey guys,

I successfully replaced the Outlet pipe on my jaguar xf. I tell you, first time doing it it took a total of almost 7hrs with few breaks in btw. Any ways i wanted to ask, after my install we poured in coolant, and turned the heat up and let the car run for about 30-45 mins and took it for a spin. No leaks, job was done well.

Unfortunately the engine light turned on after the job was done. We did removed the positive/negative battery terminals, removed a bunch of switches (few on the throttle body, 1 on the intake manifold, a few more behind the intake manifold. I took it to autozone, but they have low end devices; it didnt pick the codes.

Any idea what can lead to this, maybe i should take it to a European shop or dealer?

Thanks,
Faz

 

The cars Computer still has power with battery not disconnected. It still monitors some function, u may have disconnected one of those connection. The engine light should go out by the next day

 

 

Hey Terry,

The engine light is still there, im going to take it into the dealer tomorrow. Besides the check engine light, the gearbox was replaced on the car as well due to a roof leak which happened out of now where, rained like crazy and next day when i got in my car my gear box was drenched with water, hence it was not turning on. So that got replaced, below are a few issues i see due to that (i think).

1. I also noticed that my engine does not cold start anymore, so when i used to turn my car on in the mornings it would take about 1 minute for it to idle. Now when i turn the car on it starts up and everything but idles right away.

2. When i put the car into reverse the parking sensor goes off like its supposed to, but when i put it into DRIVE, the parking sensor is still on and beeps.

Any thoughts?

 

White bear 100% right

 

If it still leaks after 2 days change it. Hole 2 big