When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here in NZ we had a bulletin that came out in regards to oil spec being updated. It was for engines up to 14MY stay with 5w20, and after May of 14MY I believe you use 0w20. Still using Castrol of course.
Castrol EDGE Professional A1 5W-20 is suitable for use in vehicles that require a 5W-20 lubricant that Meets Ford WSS M2C925-A or Ford WSS M2C925-B specifications
Online price ~ 10$/liter
Official Castrol dealer price 30$/liter
hell Helix Ultra Professional AF 5W-20 for gasoline engines
was formulated specifically for use in Ford vehicles with the
"Ecoboost" engine requiring WSS-M2C948-B and where API
SN or ACEA A1/B1 are specified. It is also backwards-
compatible with the majority of Ford gasoline engines including
those that require the following oil specifications of WSS
M2C913-B, WSS M2C913-C or WSS M2C925-A.
·
Nosferatu, thanks. Still can't find any of those you listed for sale (again, I haven't called my dealer yet as I prefer to punish myself )
Got to love oil threads... I'll contribute some more to he madness.
Did another quick search and found Mobile 1 contradicts themselves. Enter the make and model (2010 XK in my case) and they say they have nothing that meets WSS-M2C925-A. Then I did a google search for WSS-M2C925-A and this is the first hit!
"Meets or exceeds: API SN, SN RESOURCE CONSERVING, SM, SM Energy Conserving, SL, SJ; ILSAC GF-4, GF-5; ACEA A1/B1; Ford WSS-M2C925-A, FORD WSS-M2C945-A, WSS-M2C930-A; Chrysler MS-6395."
So Regular old Mobile 1 will do. Or won't! But will it last 1 year??? LOL!
Yeah, this topic comes up at least once a year as we drag the XKs out of their winter slumber. Just remember the walmart Castrol Edge is not Edge Professional. The jag required additive is not present in the non-pro edge. I got the Pro version at the local landrover place for about $8/qt. It's just not worth the worry to use a anything else in these direct-inject 5L motors. Just keep looking for a dealer that will sell you the right stuff and stay away from those that think they can get away with using anything else! --sorry can't seem to turn the italics off---but I do know the right oil to use..
I keep seeing either from the oil mfg's or the car mfg's that one year between oil changes with the newer syn. type oils is OK. I also see others articles that say max of 7500 miles or even 10,000 miles. So it is article dependent with no one to believe. So far I personally have been in the 5,000 mile camp which so far fits my usage of our XKR. Just sayin
My supplier through Amazon, some Volkswagen place somewhere, hasn't had it in stock for about three months now. Not due for a change for another few months, hopefully he'll get some by then.
I keep seeing either from the oil mfg's or the car mfg's that one year between oil changes with the newer syn. type oils is OK. I also see others articles that say max of 7500 miles or even 10,000 miles.
10K miles or one year interval has been around for at least 15 years and does not require synthetics.
Oil manufacturers have no say in the matter- they're not the ones funding the car warranty or have a reputation to uphold. Follow the owner's manual and sleep well at night.
Oils are formulated for different purposes- thus the ford specification for this oil.
The issue with oil and our direct injected, oil actuated camshaft is deposit build up and vapors. Most crucially in the 5l Jaguar; inadequate oil flow at startup. The cam requires oil pressure immediately at startup, thickening oil prevents that. They want thin oil throughout the life of oil.
If you cant find the exact castrol oil- look to Motul, they make the same specification.
Incidentally- the term synthetic is most misleading; not all oils are as synthetic as you would think. For instance, Mobil 1 is still the lowest grade of synthetic you can buy. Pennzoil for example has 2 grades of synthetic, their Ultra is the one that compares to Amsoil, Castrol Slx. (castrol is the same their lower synthetics have nothing in common with their top tier synthetics)
I would not use anything but the oil meeting the Jaguar spec, you will have trouble. Even if the oil is much better than Jag spec.
Well my local dealer will not sell me the SLX Pro OE 5W-20 that they use for my car because they get it in "big drums". I gave in to just having the dealer do it. All done and good for 1 year because I only put 7-8k miles per year on her.
$33 for the filter, $110 for the oil and $48 labor. It's done, I'm happy. Even if I did it myself (IF they sold me the oil) I would have only saved ~$48 but I'm not complaining if I have to pay that once per year. Plus, they do a free multi point inspection while I watch the idiots on morning TV and drink their coffee....
They did quote me $1400 to change the water pump and inlet tube because of slight the coolant leak (that I already know about) so they do take a decent look at the car..... I'm gonna do that myself or have an indy do that however because I think that's a bit high...
I was just speaking with an ex-jag mechanic with his own Indy shop for Euro vehicles. He strongly recommended that I switch over to 10W40 as it will provide much better longevity as I am planning to keep it long term. It will create a slight loss in fuel economy though he swears by it. He sources the 10w40 from Germany. It is summer use only for me and if the only downside is a bit less fuel economy, I would prefer the longevity benefits, if true.
I was just speaking with an ex-jag mechanic with his own Indy shop for Euro vehicles. He strongly recommended that I switch over to 10W40 as it will provide much better longevity as I am planning to keep it long term. It will create a slight loss in fuel economy though he swears by it. He sources the 10w40 from Germany. It is summer use only for me and if the only downside is a bit less fuel economy, I would prefer the longevitybenefits, if true.
These engines have not been around long enough to say one way or another. Knowledge from the '80s or '90s is not relevant.
Found a reseller on eBay selling the Castrol Edge Pro 5W20. Sells them in 6 quarts per pack. I ordered two...came out to $140 total.
I bought 2 or 3 six packs from a local land rover dealer (Princeton, NJ) last year for <$9/qt. I did call at least 3 other dealers who either wouldn't sell it to me, or in the case of 1, said that he used mobile 1..
I recall a single ebay seller that had it for a lot more, and I was ready to pull the trigger before I found the willing local dealer.
I was just speaking with an ex-jag mechanic with his own Indy shop for Euro vehicles. He strongly recommended that I switch over to 10W40 as it will provide much better longevity as I am planning to keep it long term. It will create a slight loss in fuel economy though he swears by it. He sources the 10w40 from Germany. It is summer use only for me and if the only downside is a bit less fuel economy, I would prefer the longevity benefits, if true.
Your indy guy has proven to you that he doesnt know much.
You will destroy the engine.
If anything, one should have gone the other direction in viscosity.
Look its way too much to explain. But I can trace back through the dots of his line of thinking and warn you that he thinks you have a old-timey engine.
You will have insufficient lubrication- at start and during running and will cook the oil to a crust.
I am sure he is a great guy, but remember this, the road to hell is paved with morons who meant well.