XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

Did the supercharger coupler today.

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  #21  
Old 12-13-2019, 05:11 PM
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Do all supercharged XKR's have this coupler or only the Direct Injection ones?
 
  #22  
Old 01-12-2020, 09:55 PM
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How did you know it was time to change the coupler? mileage, noise, codes, all of the above? Also, is it possible to even remove the carbon in the intake while its apart?. I've got 87k on my 2010 and I think I need to do this also since I'm hearing a noise that I think is coming from the supercharger. Thanks.
 
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Old 01-13-2020, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by d a
How did you know it was time to change the coupler? mileage, noise, codes, all of the above? Also, is it possible to even remove the carbon in the intake while its apart?. I've got 87k on my 2010 and I think I need to do this also since I'm hearing a noise that I think is coming from the supercharger. Thanks.
You will know coupler needs changed by the supercharger making a loose rattle noise when shutting off vehicle. Although a lot of people say some noise is normal. There are sound clips on the internet to hear examples, some worse than others. Not sure how to describe noise, almost like a hammer hitting a solid surface a few times, imagine a Da-Da-Da sound as engine comes to a stop. One thing for certain at 87k you need to do the supercharger fluid, if not done already. I just did mine at 40k and I was missing fluid from burn off... Here is a link to a sound clip on one that is a really bad case I would assume, because you can hear the knocking with engine running, not just at shut down.
 

Last edited by TexasTraveler; 01-13-2020 at 10:02 AM.
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  #24  
Old 01-13-2020, 02:25 PM
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Well done TT and yes most owners fail to understand how much oil is used up due to burn off why its important to change
 
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Old 01-13-2020, 03:42 PM
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Thanks, just what I needed. It doesn't seem like a tough job (given my previous XJS 6.0L). I should also be able to clean the throttle body and other carbon stuff while at it right?
 
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  #26  
Old 01-13-2020, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by d a
Thanks, just what I needed. It doesn't seem like a tough job (given my previous XJS 6.0L). I should also be able to clean the throttle body and other carbon stuff while at it right?
Sure you would need a buddy with you don doing it this way to wrestle it of
 
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  #27  
Old 01-15-2020, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by George05
Sure you would need a buddy with you don doing it this way to wrestle it of
Was googling the SC coupler replacement and found this advertised "oil filled upgrade" from the original any thoughts or threads about what type coupler I need to replace?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supercharge...EAAOSww9xZBhyz
 
  #28  
Old 01-15-2020, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by d a
Was googling the SC coupler replacement and found this advertised "oil filled upgrade" from the original any thoughts or threads about what type coupler I need to replace?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supercharge...EAAOSww9xZBhyz
If memory is correct go for the plastic coupler as i have seen , "read on here the metal ones will go again in 20-30k miles
 
  #29  
Old 12-29-2020, 02:43 PM
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👍 Thanks...

DC
 
  #30  
Old 02-05-2022, 08:20 AM
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Great read
 
  #31  
Old 04-25-2024, 04:01 PM
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This is an all time great post and should be a STICKY for sure.
I have one comment, you don't really need the guide pins if when you lower the SC you do it carefully and use all 4 b bolts on each side to align the gaskets before tightening.
 
  #32  
Old 04-25-2024, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Zen Beer
This is an all time great post and should be a STICKY for sure.
I have one comment, you don't really need the guide pins if when you lower the SC you do it carefully and use all 4 b bolts on each side to align the gaskets before tightening.
Maybe not, but there's no alignment dowels in the heads down there and an $8 section of allthread saves you a whole lot of dorkin' around with trying to get those gaskets back in place after you bump them when you lower the SC assy. You also really can't see directly down the bolt holes either because your only angle of attack is from the sides so you're going to be lining them back up by braille. Dunno; do what you gotta do.

As a side note, I'm probably going to be going back in there within the next few months. The accessory belt tensioner bolt sheared off in the block last week and it's looking like I'm going to need to take the front of the car off to get to it. I haven't fooled with it much other than taking the intake pipes out to look at it and go, "oh, **** me..." and walk away from it. I'm currently bench testing the alum method of bolt extraction with mixed results. Even if I can get it to dissolve the bolt out, I'm assuming that the 5" or so between the block and the radiator support and whatnot isn't going to be enough room to get a drill and/or tap and/or timesert installation kit in there to do it right (I'm assuming at this point that the threads will need to be addressed as I have little faith in the cold formed threads produced by the tri lobe fasteners they run into the untapped holes at the factory). There's not a lot of meat on the boss and that's not a cheap block, so I'd rather take the extra time to get a clear and straight shot at it than try to have a go from up top. While I'm in there, I'm going to be doing some stuff with the intercooler system and will also be changing the SC oil.
 
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  #33  
Old 07-11-2024, 09:51 PM
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Nice work ,but I did the whole job myself, not saying that everyone can do it themselves, I've done alot of them V6 and V8s,I have one spot I hit the snout with a rubber mallet and off it comes 3 seconds, no screw drivers needed, I have another video doing a F-type R on Saturday morning, I'll be making another video for you guys, how I do it to make it easy for you guys, I'm a Xf guy but I've done Xj,s F-type for members on the forum
 

Last edited by dennis black; Yesterday at 07:28 PM.
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