Engine temp high warning
#1
Engine temp high warning
Engine temp high warning. 2nd occurrence. ELM327 is indicating less than 190 degrees while driving. The first time this happened I shut car off immediately... Let cool for 20 mins, drove home. No problem since. Just happened again right now, I'm waiting to pick my son up from school. Im so scared of a possible water pump failure because of everything I've read on this forum about the XKRs, but indicated temp is less than 190...any ideas?
#2
#3
#4
#5
Also, after the first time it did it over a week ago, after I let it cool down for 20 mins or so and checked the coolant level and found it was good, I beat the snot out of it on the way home and didn't have another reoccurrence until tonight. Its not a daily driver for me but ive put on 300+ miles in between occurrences. And I will be doing all of my own work on it, other than the stuff I'm not equipped to do like programing stuff. I have my own shop with car lift, and I do have a very good mechanical aptitude along with an associates degree from Wyotech in automotive technology with chassis fabrication and high performance engines.
#6
Tell us what motor you have or year of car.
I notce that both your post and signiture section are void of information that would help us help you.
If it is the 5.0l, be afraid...Be very afraid..... Tow to your nearest dealership and have the system looked at. If the 4.2, suspect the thermostat and housing assembly.
These are known areas of overheat on both platforms.
The 5.0 is gaining a slight reputation for frying motors quickly on a failed pump, so minimize your risk ASAP.
BOL
I notce that both your post and signiture section are void of information that would help us help you.
If it is the 5.0l, be afraid...Be very afraid..... Tow to your nearest dealership and have the system looked at. If the 4.2, suspect the thermostat and housing assembly.
These are known areas of overheat on both platforms.
The 5.0 is gaining a slight reputation for frying motors quickly on a failed pump, so minimize your risk ASAP.
BOL
#8
Very interesting scenario. I thought that the ELM 327 would get its OBD II readings from the same sensor source as the one triggers the temp alarm. Obviously NOT the case.
I would trust the ELM 327 read as accurate and suspect what ever sensor is acting up that triggers the warning.. Either way a trip to the dealer to replace the sensor would be in order, unless you venture to do it yourself. The fact that you are NOT loosing coolant also backs up the bad sensor theory.
I would trust the ELM 327 read as accurate and suspect what ever sensor is acting up that triggers the warning.. Either way a trip to the dealer to replace the sensor would be in order, unless you venture to do it yourself. The fact that you are NOT loosing coolant also backs up the bad sensor theory.
#10
#12
I use a little common sense in situations like this. The 1st thing I would do is stop the car , turn off the engine and pop the hood. Look for smoke and if none then look under the front of the car and also smell the engine . If no antifreeze smell or any coming from under the car or blowing out of the coolant tank then you don't have a problem. Oh also check to see if the rad. fan is running or cycling. For those with an ELM and a torque pro type of app and the temp is in line (190*-200*) then you should be good to go. I would check and log the code and erase it and see what conditions come up in the future.
The following 2 users liked this post by jagtoes:
Kuekuatsu07 (06-14-2021),
ralphwg (05-17-2015)
#13
Am I correct to assume that both the XK and XKR 5.0 from 2010 forward both have overheating issues? I've questioned my shop foreman and I believe both engines are vulnerable to this issue. Mileage might not necessarily matter as I've heard of Jags with as little at 5,000 miles cooking. Not happy about this which limits me to how far I can drive from home.. Ridiculous for such an expensive car! I do have a warranty but of course those notorious "loopholes"!
#14
The issue with "cooked" 5.0L engines is related to oil starvation, not necessarily coolant system failure. Without easy to read gauges or a dipstick, most drivers simply don't check until it's too late. This is what happened to the previous owner of my car and I got a new engine as part of the deal I made.
#15
#16
Failed The Smell Test
I use a little common sense in situations like this. The 1st thing I would do is stop the car , turn off the engine and pop the hood. Look for smoke and if none then look under the front of the car and also smell the engine . If no antifreeze smell or any coming from under the car or blowing out of the coolant tank then you don't have a problem. Oh also check to see if the rad. fan is running or cycling. For those with an ELM and a torque pro type of app and the temp is in line (190*-200*) then you should be good to go. I would check and log the code and erase it and see what conditions come up in the future.
I agree, but would add one more common sense "Old School" thing to do if you get an overheating warning. Turn the heater on FULL BLAST MAX TEMPERATURE AND FAN SPEED and direct the airflow to the upper vents. Make sure there is very hot air coming out of those vents. If not, then odds are that the water pump is not pumping even if the radiator/overflow tank appears to be full and you don't see any leaks or smell any coolant. If hot air is coming out, you're lowering the engine temperature by using the heater core as an auxiliary radiator and, provided you still have sufficient coolant, you might be able to continue to drive a bit farther without damaging the engine (with the windows open, of course) - but I don't recommend doing so because you still risk frying the engine, particularly in the absence of a reliable temperature gauge.
MY EXPERIENCE: I didn't have any overheating warning or any apparent leaking or coolant loss but when I parked and noticed the faint, tell-tale smell of coolant aroma from my 2013 XJ 5.0 SC I immediately went to my dealer to get the water pump inspected. Sure enough, the technician saw a trail of dried coolant that had been slowly leaking from the water pump and replaced it under my CPO warranty. This was about 5 months ago, and so far, so good.
Stuart
#17
Am I correct to assume that both the XK and XKR 5.0 from 2010 forward both have overheating issues? I've questioned my shop foreman and I believe both engines are vulnerable to this issue. Mileage might not necessarily matter as I've heard of Jags with as little at 5,000 miles cooking. Not happy about this which limits me to how far I can drive from home.. Ridiculous for such an expensive car! I do have a warranty but of course those notorious "loopholes"!
I believe the defective water pump issue applies to all 5.0L Jaguar/Land Rover engines in vehicles built prior to 9/1/2012, and possibly later. All 5.0L V-8 models are affected, including XF/XFR, XK/XKR, XJ/XJR, F-Type, and Land Rover models. As I explained above, the water pump in my 2013 XJ SC was replaced under warranty, so the defective pumps were installed at least through my 9/1/2012 build date. I don't know the cut-off date after which cars were manufactured with the newer-design water pump.
There is a TSB on the water pump in the 2011 5.0L XJ SC - #JTB002782 as reported by ALLDATAdiy Automotive Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins for 2011 Jaguar XJ (X351) V8-5.0L SC. Provided by ALLDATA but you have to pay for it through a subscription, which I don't have. There may be other water pump TSBs. Hopefully, a tech on this forum will let us know and post a copy of that water pump TSB.
Stuart
#18
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 5,668
Received 2,675 Likes
on
1,836 Posts
Here is a thread on the water pump issue with some good information in several posts:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-103526/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-103526/
The following users liked this post:
Stuart S (05-18-2015)
#19
I tend to pay attention to water pumps as with my old Ferrari they would only last to 20-30K miles. And the rebuild was $300+ and a bear to remove. A new one was in the $500-$1000 range depending on OEM or aftermarket improved versions. That being said I am not happy if I were to see a weep trail coming out of the bearing vent hole. I have also seen some info that with cars that are stored for months it is detrimental to seals and especially WP bearings/seals. Usually the smell is the 1st indication of having it replaced so I'll keep my nose ready and do an occasional check with my Torque app.
#20
Here is a thread on the water pump issue with some good information in several posts:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-103526/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-103526/