I have a Jaguar 2008 convertible. I need to keep it in a garage for about 4 months.

is there anything I need to do for the car? Do I disconnect the battery?

thanks
Craig

 

Four months isn't all that long.

Filling the gas tank is always a good idea before storage. I like to over inflate the tires a bit as well

I'd use a Battery Tender or similar on the battery

Cheers
DD

 

Better set out some mouse traps.

 

If you have power in the garage, definitely use a CTEK rather than disconnect the battery. If you do have to disconnect, make sure you can get back into the luggage compartment with the emergency key before closing it.

Avoid the temptation to start it up once in a while during storage. Unless you take it for a run to get the fluids fully warmed and the exhaust hot, this does more harm than good.

Graham

 

My mind is always split on this, interested to hear your thoughts - why more harm than good?
The reason I fire things up once in 2 to 3 months is to get the oil cranked around the bearings etc, stop any rust forming inside the engine, stop rubbers from drying out. Also bearing turning prevents rust / bearing fail, ethanol fuel going off and blocking injectors etc
However, I have a bit of private road going to the house so I can drive the car around it and the driveway - just about 100 metres, and I get the engine fully operating temp - a good 15 - 20 mins running.
I realize it is not good from a carbon build up point of view, condensation etc

Always keen to know peoples thoughts.

 

I frequently read posts about starting up for about five minutes every week during storage but this does nothing for transmission, brakes or suspension and most engine wear occurs during a cold start. An effective occasional starting regime must include a short drive as you do.

When I had my Bentley Continental R, I followed the Rolls Royce/Bentley recommended storage procedure (see attached). A very different vehicle and I wouldn't take that much trouble with a Jaguar which is usually a daily driver for me.

Graham

 

That makes perfect sense, and I definitely agree on the lack of benefit on the every week 5 mins start up - ok, we're on the same page.
All my research points to the following if you're going to start up - 1. Engine hot, in the case of bikes (which has always been the only winter storage for me til I got the Jag) crankcases must be hot to touch which actually takes a good 10-15 mins, only then are you at operating temp 2. Move around, so you get wheel turning, engage brake/ clutch, stop flat spot on tyres etc, brakes sticking etc etc
I shall read the RR procedure when I get a minute, thank you

 

Fill it with Super Unleaded - preferably Esso or BP - less/ no ethanol to go off and cause you issues with the injectors. If you can order STABIL ONE Marine fuel stabilizer, stick it in the ta tank and give the car a 5 or 6 mile run.
Totally agree with the other comments

 

When an internal combustion engine runs, it produces carbon monoxide and water vapor. If the engine and exhaust system don't get up to normal operating temperature, that water vapor will condense inside the engine and exhaust. That can cause corrosion damage.

I wouldn't worry about lubricating your engine if it's sitting for 4 months, particularly if you use synthetic oil. All the internal moving components retain and are protected by a thin film of oil. Does anyone start their lawnmower engine during the winter months?

 

Good points, though doesn't help with rubber drying out or fuel going off in injectors or carb jets etc (possibly not an issue with the X150 - the carbon monoxide and water vapor is valid and the reason I go to normal operating temperature - however useful to confirm to those who don't know.

 

I think another huge benefit of actually driving the car for a little bit as opposed to just running the engine is that it basically stirs up the gasoline in the tank. Particularly with ethanol blended fuels, as a car sits still, all the additives and components in the fuel settle out. Any water or solids from impurities or oxidation goes straight to the bottom of the tank and the other additives can't do their job if they're not mixed in well. Driving it, turning corners, starting, stopping and hitting a few bumps shakes up the fuel and keeps everything in suspension. It also splashes it around and coats the sides and top of the tank with whatever anti-corrosion additives are in the gas for protection against rust. If you just run the engine once a month and don't drive it, then its going to suck up whatever has settled out and fallen to the bottom of the tank, and depending how long it sits, possibly in concentrations high enough to gum up the works.

However, four months tho should not be a problem even if you do nothing. Classic cars with carburetors, tiny little jets, float-actuated needle valves and barely 6psi of fuel pressure were very sensitive to bad gas but modern fuel injection at 30+ psi just forces impurities on through. Your 2008 would need to sit for like a couple of years before it'd do anything worse than run somewhat poorly till you got fresh fuel. Likely more cost-effective than buying bottles of additive or seeking out ethanol-free gas (not easy to find in most major US cities) would be to just fill the tank with a top-tier brand fuel like Chevron and that will easily last four months, especially if you drive it up and down your own driveway and hit the brakes a few times each month to stir the tank.

 

i occasionally run my saab like this if its sat for a while. when that length of time is several months, i remove the distributor lead so it won't turn over, but will pump oil. not sure that is something one can safely do with an XK? also i'm aware it's kind of stupid not to also disconnect fuel because it will wash the cylinders/rings but hey it's just a saab.

i do start my lawnmower in the winter months! typically just once. i use a vise grip to clamp the handle on so it will run for a few minutes by itself. it sits in the garage next to the car so i typically try to do this after i've also driven the car, so that both heat sources work together to drive moisture off as it is not an insulated garage.

 

I turn my motorbikes over without choke for a good 30 secs to get the oil distributed well - handy old thing a manual choke is

 

My classics are motorbikes with tiny pilots and needle float valves. Injectors are new to me mechanically (I dont work on our daily drivers, just my XKR) so im pleased to hear they aren't as high maintenance with storage as my carburretors are

 

I have read at those forums, that pressing down full on the gas pedal, and touching the "Start" button will only cycle the engine without starting it ( no fuel injection ).

I did this, and it made only a slight whirring noise.

That canīt be the engine revving??? Itīs much too quiet IMO!

Also: will this pump oil through the engine? Letīs say, if I do this 3 times for around 3 seconds each? This would relube the engine, but not transmission / differential, but without water vapour.

I have the Cat on a CTEK while doing this, so no worry about battery drainage.

Hermann

BTW, itīs "Carbon Dioxide", not "Carbon Monoxide" which should be there only in smallest amounts, as its toxic.

 

You are mistaken. It's carbon monoxide (CO) that's the killer in internal combustion engine exhaust.

"The lethal consequences of CO in engine exhaust is tragically illustrated by the hundreds of persons who die each year from carbon monoxide poisoning caused by a running vehicle inside a closed garage. Others die or become ill in homes with attached garages, while stranded in their car, or while driving or riding in a vehicle with a defective exhaust system."

https://www.abe.iastate.edu/extensio...he%20tailpipe.

 

I never run the car in the garage with closed doors. But I thought everybody knows that. Even if the Carbon Monoxide wonīt get you, the Carbon Dioxide will

H

 

I am going to try this! I work on about 20 secs to fully pump the oil around an in-line 4 motorbike engine, im guessing similar for our v8s?

 

If, as you say, "... everybody knows that", then why are so many people still dying from carbon monoxide poisoning?

And, as you say, how will the Carbon Dioxide get you? It's part of the air we breathe!

Although carbon dioxide (CO2) is part of the air we breathe and is generally considered to be non-toxic, it can be fatal in rare cases if ingested in high concentrations such as exposure to dry ice fumes.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5380556/

Exposure to excessive CO2 can cause intoxication, confusion, and reduced cognitive performance.

You appear to have confused CO2 with CO. You may want to see a doctor before it's too late.

 

I don't drive my XJS very much as it's a work in progress. It's waiting for a suspension rebuild. Though it runs fine and is registered and insured. Now it's stored in the garage, but I start it up, back it onto the driveway and let it run while I dust it off, and do a walk around. I have a route around my greater neighborhood where I'll drive it for a good fifteen miles. I stop after 15 minutes to check for any leaks with the motor running. The whole process usually takes around 45 minutes. I do this every two months, last time I also took it out on the freeway and put about forty miles on it. In between, I'll run a float charger on it for a day. I don't know if it's only an old Wive's tale, but from cold, I never run my XJS for just a few minutes then shut it off. That big lump of aluminum takes a long time to warm up completely, and that convoluted intake system has just gotta have lots of places for raw gas to pool. Sounds like a recipe for fouled plugs and diluted oil.