Is this a good deal?
#1
Is this a good deal?
Hello all,
Just test drove a beautiful 2010 XKR Convertible today and to say the least, I'm hooked!
It's got 29,750 miles, dark blue exterior and top, and tan interior. The dealer is asking $39,999 but I'm thinking there must be some wiggle room here. What would you all offer and consider a good, not great, but good deal?
Just test drove a beautiful 2010 XKR Convertible today and to say the least, I'm hooked!
It's got 29,750 miles, dark blue exterior and top, and tan interior. The dealer is asking $39,999 but I'm thinking there must be some wiggle room here. What would you all offer and consider a good, not great, but good deal?
#2
I think before you get to the offer stage you need to have the car inspected both mechanically and by a body shop that has expertise in aluminum construction. Your local Jaguar dealer is a good place to start. The mechanical inspection should cost no more than $250-$300. The dealer can put you onto a properly trained and experienced body shop. The cost for that should be about the same.
Also pulling a carfax on the car as a starting point is a good idea. I think you can the names of the dealers who have been involved with the car from there and you probably can get the service records from the dealers. Also make sure there are no outstanding TBs on the car.
Finally, I think the asking price is significantly above market. Check Edmonds, Ebay, Blue book, cars.com and other sites. Sounds like a beautiful car good luck!!
Also pulling a carfax on the car as a starting point is a good idea. I think you can the names of the dealers who have been involved with the car from there and you probably can get the service records from the dealers. Also make sure there are no outstanding TBs on the car.
Finally, I think the asking price is significantly above market. Check Edmonds, Ebay, Blue book, cars.com and other sites. Sounds like a beautiful car good luck!!
#3
#4
#5
I just bought a 2010 xkr after about 6 months of hunting. Dark blue w/ tan is not common and brings a premium price as a result. However, the advice given above is spot on. A Carfax may tell you if the car was in an accident but not always. A good inspection including a paint thickness reader is valuable.
One problem these cars are notorious for is water pump failures; and a Carfax should show if that has been done to this car. I've seen quite a variety of costs to replace quoted here, figure close to $1000.00 at a dealer.
If the car checks out in all categories, then the real question is "how much do you want it?". I lost a very nice one by negotiating a bit too hard edged. I found another low mileage car and paid almost asking price because overall it was worth it, even if not my first color choice.
I would suggest that the mileage on the blue car isn't "low" as such; but it is lower that many. (The car I bought had 16k miles when I picked it up) If the color is what you want, then ask yourself "If not this one, what else is around?" Let that be your negotiating guide.
One problem these cars are notorious for is water pump failures; and a Carfax should show if that has been done to this car. I've seen quite a variety of costs to replace quoted here, figure close to $1000.00 at a dealer.
If the car checks out in all categories, then the real question is "how much do you want it?". I lost a very nice one by negotiating a bit too hard edged. I found another low mileage car and paid almost asking price because overall it was worth it, even if not my first color choice.
I would suggest that the mileage on the blue car isn't "low" as such; but it is lower that many. (The car I bought had 16k miles when I picked it up) If the color is what you want, then ask yourself "If not this one, what else is around?" Let that be your negotiating guide.
#6
Hey everyone and thanks for the honest feedback. Just to be clear, this car is for sale by a Jag/LR dealer. Would I still bring the vehicle to another dealer for a PPI? Bringing the car to a body shop to check the paint and panels is a great idea and I'll make sure to do that prior to making an offer on the car.
The car is listed as a one owner car on Carfax but I have yet to see the carfax report or the service records.
Great advice on the water pump. Assuming it hasn't been changed out, should I expect to replace this part as a precaution after purchasing or wait until a leak shows?
Anything else to look at or should he aware if for a MY 2010 XKR?
The car is listed as a one owner car on Carfax but I have yet to see the carfax report or the service records.
Great advice on the water pump. Assuming it hasn't been changed out, should I expect to replace this part as a precaution after purchasing or wait until a leak shows?
Anything else to look at or should he aware if for a MY 2010 XKR?
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Just looked at the add with only one picture. Seems to be 1 owner , no accidents , 13 service records . Price is good and mileage looks ok so I would get it if it were a CPO car by the dealer. Pretty rare color combo. Make sure you don't look at the car when it is wet . Good luck
#9
I would push to get it as a CPO but it would not be a show stopper. Ask questions about the service records. Looks like a lot of NJ pot holes.
#10
Here is the service record CARFAX Vehicle History Report for this 2010 JAGUAR XKR: SAJWA4EC2AMB38641
I would push to get it as a CPO but it would not be a show stopper. Ask questions about the service records. Looks like a lot of NJ pot holes.
I would push to get it as a CPO but it would not be a show stopper. Ask questions about the service records. Looks like a lot of NJ pot holes.
Now regarding your CPO question, what would be some talking points on my end or bargaining chips to get the dealer to CPO the car? I'm guessing if they agree to CPO, I'm not going to get them to move off the asking price?
#11
An inspection should indicate if there is evidence of the pump starting to leak. Looking at many Carfax reports during my search, I saw cars with pumps replaced at 22k miles and others with over 50k and no record of a pump replacement. Keep in mind that could just mean it failed when the car was out of warrante and the repair was done by an indie. Most of the ones I saw had replacements in the mid-30's to mid 40's. There were plenty with no history of failure, so it doesn't seem to be predictable.
If the pump shows no current issues, there are two things to do to monitor it. First, some owners here reported smelling cooling leak as a warning, so do some sniffing after driving. Second, it is easy to check the coolant reservoir to see if you are losing any. I've driven mine just over a thousand miles since pick up; and I was worried about whether the seals might be dry as the car had little use the last few years. So far, no issue.
I personally would not do a change prophylactically unless I was going to do a lot of long distance driving and wanted to avoid being on the side of the road 200 miles from the closest Jag/LR dealer. That is just my personal perspective.
Finally I see we live about an hour apart. Once you get a car we should have lunch or adult beverages etc. and compare notes.
#12
An inspection should indicate if there is evidence of the pump starting to leak. Looking at many Carfax reports during my search, I saw cars with pumps replaced at 22k miles and others with over 50k and no record of a pump replacement. Keep in mind that could just mean it failed when the car was out of warrante and the repair was done by an indie. Most of the ones I saw had replacements in the mid-30's to mid 40's. There were plenty with no history of failure, so it doesn't seem to be predictable.
If the pump shows no current issues, there are two things to do to monitor it. First, some owners here reported smelling cooling leak as a warning, so do some sniffing after driving. Second, it is easy to check the coolant reservoir to see if you are losing any. I've driven mine just over a thousand miles since pick up; and I was worried about whether the seals might be dry as the car had little use the last few years. So far, no issue.
I personally would not do a change prophylactically unless I was going to do a lot of long distance driving and wanted to avoid being on the side of the road 200 miles from the closest Jag/LR dealer. That is just my personal perspective.
Finally I see we live about an hour apart. Once you get a car we should have lunch or adult beverages etc. and compare notes.
If the pump shows no current issues, there are two things to do to monitor it. First, some owners here reported smelling cooling leak as a warning, so do some sniffing after driving. Second, it is easy to check the coolant reservoir to see if you are losing any. I've driven mine just over a thousand miles since pick up; and I was worried about whether the seals might be dry as the car had little use the last few years. So far, no issue.
I personally would not do a change prophylactically unless I was going to do a lot of long distance driving and wanted to avoid being on the side of the road 200 miles from the closest Jag/LR dealer. That is just my personal perspective.
Finally I see we live about an hour apart. Once you get a car we should have lunch or adult beverages etc. and compare notes.
#13
Wow, thank you for the information! This is why I love this forum, very helpful members
Now regarding your CPO question, what would be some talking points on my end or bargaining chips to get the dealer to CPO the car? I'm guessing if they agree to CPO, I'm not going to get them to move off the asking price?
Now regarding your CPO question, what would be some talking points on my end or bargaining chips to get the dealer to CPO the car? I'm guessing if they agree to CPO, I'm not going to get them to move off the asking price?
#14
Wow, thank you for the information! This is why I love this forum, very helpful members
Now regarding your CPO question, what would be some talking points on my end or bargaining chips to get the dealer to CPO the car? I'm guessing if they agree to CPO, I'm not going to get them to move off the asking price?
Now regarding your CPO question, what would be some talking points on my end or bargaining chips to get the dealer to CPO the car? I'm guessing if they agree to CPO, I'm not going to get them to move off the asking price?
The dealer won't CPO this XKR since there's not enough time left to justify the approximately $2,000 cost to do so. The CarFax shows that this XKR was originally placed in service on May 25, 2010. To qualify for CPO, among other things, the vehicle must be less than 6 years old from the original in-service date. The CPO expiration date would be May 25, 2016, so this XKR has just 3 weeks left of potential CPO time.
If you want a CPO XKR, Google "Jaguar CPO" and follow the links to the dealer inventory across the USA.
Stuart
#15
OK, so CPO is out of the question. No big deal I guess.
One concern when looking over the carfax is the multiple times the car has been in for Body computer/ module reprogrammed, Instrument cluster reprogrammed, and engine/powertrain computer/module replaced in late 2014.
Any ideas what these could be about? Is this a known issue?
One concern when looking over the carfax is the multiple times the car has been in for Body computer/ module reprogrammed, Instrument cluster reprogrammed, and engine/powertrain computer/module replaced in late 2014.
Any ideas what these could be about? Is this a known issue?
#17
OK, so CPO is out of the question. No big deal I guess.
One concern when looking over the carfax is the multiple times the car has been in for Body computer/ module reprogrammed, Instrument cluster reprogrammed, and engine/powertrain computer/module replaced in late 2014.
Any ideas what these could be about? Is this a known issue?
One concern when looking over the carfax is the multiple times the car has been in for Body computer/ module reprogrammed, Instrument cluster reprogrammed, and engine/powertrain computer/module replaced in late 2014.
Any ideas what these could be about? Is this a known issue?
#18
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 5,650
Received 2,646 Likes
on
1,822 Posts
If this XKR has been used in the northern part of the U.S. it most likely has some corrosion or been driven over very rough roads.
Despite the Lucas comments, most of the electrical gremlins afflicting these vehicles can be directly attributed to a failing or weak battery.
#19
#20